The Sewing Place

How to make trousers that fit?

Tamnymore

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #15 on: January 02, 2018, 20:05:21 PM »
Nice pattern and looks easy. No pockets though.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

sewingj

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #16 on: January 09, 2018, 10:55:06 AM »
Just as an update - I`m really struggling with my project even using the book and a pattern with fitting instructions.  I think you really need a sewing buddy to help with the fitting.  I might end up with something wearable but not great - and more to the point is the fact that I am really not enjoying the whole process.  (For me, sewing is meant to be a pleasurable hobby not a chore!)

I think in future I will stick to ready-made trousers and learn how to alter them to fit better!

Francesca

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #17 on: January 09, 2018, 11:03:22 AM »
I tried making trousers for my Mum and they were a disaster. Even with the "pants for real people" book instructions we couldn't get them to fit. They just wouldn't fit properly in the bum area.

Recently I have downloaded some software called 'Fitography' which looks amazing - you take photos of yourself and then outline yourself and it spits out a pattern based on your shape. Not just your measurements, but your actual shape as you mark each point on your body. E.g, crotch curve can actually be shaped to your own crotch curve instead of the odd shape that a pattern has in comparison to your own body (they never work for me).

I still need to give it a go, but I've seen garments people have made from the software and they fit so well. They have a lot of different trouser patterns.

Efemera

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #18 on: January 09, 2018, 11:14:03 AM »
I gave up on making trousers years ago...just too much trouble

sewingj

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #19 on: January 09, 2018, 11:42:14 AM »
Fran - that sounds good - let us know how you get on with it (though photographing myself in detail would be rather depressing!)
« Last Edit: January 09, 2018, 11:44:10 AM by sewingj »

Silver Rose

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #20 on: January 09, 2018, 11:43:47 AM »
The first pair that fitted me well I made using McCalls 6901 after about 4 goes using other patterns with unsatisfactory results. M6901 is a very simple style with a no pocket option and a centre back zip instead of front fly, I found it a good starting point but I suppose it all depends on your shape. I could never find RTW trousers or jeans to fit me comfortably.
Still learning

sewingj

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #21 on: January 09, 2018, 11:46:07 AM »
The first pair that fitted me well I made using McCalls 6901 after about 4 goes using other patterns with unsatisfactory results. M6901 is a very simple style with a no pocket option and a centre back zip instead of front fly, I found it a good starting point but I suppose it all depends on your shape. I could never find RTW trousers or jeans to fit me comfortably.

That`s the pattern I am using SilverRose - to be fair it does fit better than anything else I have tried but it`s still not great

Rita

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #22 on: January 09, 2018, 17:23:57 PM »
Another trouser failure here! I spent the best part of two days' Christmas holiday really trying my hardest (again) to get the fit right but just can't seem to do it. I've been using Simplicity 2860, the Amazing Fit trousers, and the Pants for Real People book. I had a toile that seemed about right but, somehow or other, the bagginess at the back of the thigh reappeared in the real pair - difference in fabric maybe, or perhaps I just cut it out wrong? I haven't given up completely but skirts are looking very tempting.

toileandtrouble

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #23 on: January 09, 2018, 19:01:29 PM »
Try scooping the back of the underseam just 1/4" lower so the back can pull up a fraction. See if that improves the fit.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Tamnymore

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #24 on: January 09, 2018, 20:53:26 PM »
Sorry I can't offer much useful advice here except to say once you find a pattern that works for you stick to it like superglue. I have a Marcy Tilton pattern which fits me (I think) and which I have used about a dozen times.

I don't know if anyone has suggested this in this thread already but if you have managed to wear out a pair of RTW trousers that are a good fit and you are about to take them to the charity shop you could take them apart and take a pattern from them instead.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Rita

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #25 on: January 11, 2018, 18:26:44 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions but I've tried both scooping the back and using a reasonable RTW pair as a pattern but without much success. Some of it, maybe, is just the difference in fabric. I did say to the pattern "It's not me, it's you!" but will take a deep breath and have another go soon. Possibly.  -<

Ohsewsimple

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #26 on: January 13, 2018, 13:31:23 PM »
Rita it's always a good idea to post photos here so people can see what's going on and may have a better idea of how to help.  One suggestion is to always mark the grainlines front and back and hip line and crutchline on the toile.  That way you can see if they are level and if the grainlines are twisted.  Saves time trying to guess.   :)

Rita

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #27 on: January 15, 2018, 16:27:20 PM »
Good advice, Ohsewsimple, especially marking the toile. I will get back to it and will be careful to make one small adjustment at a time (I suspect my scooping of the back was a bit too enthusiastic) but, just for the moment, life's got in the way and I haven't quite got the patience!

lakaribane

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #28 on: January 23, 2018, 17:23:43 PM »
I hope you are not completely discouraged. A few factors to keep in mind:

- Hip depth or whatever waist to hips distance is called: in Burda, it's 19cm, in US Big4 it's 23cm, from memory. I prefer Burda since it's already close to my measurements. Plus, this is my favorite brand so, IF I am making trousers, they are most likely to be a Burda pattern;
- What do you notice in RTW? For me, the waist gaps at the back and, being 1,53m, everything is too long, always! I also have hips and a butt. But what are your specific issues? There could be a brand out there closer to your shape;
- Do you plan to make more woven or more stretch woven or more knit pants? Consider buying a cheap equivalent because woven is the hardest to fit as it shows everything. The other are progressively more forgiving;
- I agree 100% with trying a good-enough-fit RTW pair of pants and comparing the measurements to the basic pattern you are using;

I would also do Bermuda shorts aka knee-length since anything longer doesn't really require fit except for hem length. FYI, my long hem is 1cm or so off the ground in bare feet. I also think all the pulling and distortion will show well enough on that length.

Good luck!

justpottering

Re: How to make trousers that fit?
« Reply #29 on: January 28, 2018, 16:35:32 PM »
The best way (after endless tries of different methods) to adjust for a full tummy is the slash and pivot method in the centre front (crotch seam) larger tummy does not need extra width often but extra length - more fabric to go up and over the tummy, raising the waistband so that it sits level when wearing (this does not look level when not being worn, but that's ok
Also by using the slash and pivot method, the side seams remain the same to match the back of the garment so no fiddling about needed there.
Decide how much adjustment you need, you can get this measurement from a pair of trousers you already have that don't fit that well over the tummy area, stand sideways and look at the waistline of the trousers, it probably sits ok at the back but sits lower at the front, the difference from where the waistband is and where it should sit is how much you need to adjust the front in height, but adding it onto the top seam is not the way to do it, slash the pattern across from the middle of the crotch seam over to the side seam and stop a tiny distance from the edge ( put some tape here strengthens the 'pivot', then spread the gap until the desired additional height is reached (if there is a large amount, try making several slashes instead of one)
This will make the front of the trouser higher, which is fine. Redraw any darts on the pattern

if more width is needed (after trying the above) then add that by opening up the piece from the waistband to almost the bottom of the crotch to add more width
Make a toile without question, and if more adjustments are necessary, use the toile and add fabric rather than making a new toile, then use the toile as your pattern piece, or use it to adjust the pattern piece further

I tend to use the pattern size for the back, and adjust the front, because the back needs to be flatter

The problem with adjusting RTW, is there is not always enough fabric and only width if there is and nothing to add to the height
Also RTW have jodpur hips  :P

This method works for me, I first learned it with Barbara Deckert (book and craftsy) and later also watched Kathleen Cheetham do it in craftsy, current searches where some of the newer pattern makers have tutorials are not, imho good enough explanations
JP
Dressmaker - but first......tea