The Sewing Place

Coat sewing

SewRuthieSews

Coat sewing
« on: December 19, 2017, 22:29:52 PM »
I bought Love Sewing magazine and really like the idea of sewing the coat pattern B6423 which is included with it.
In the magazine they show up made up in a solid single fabric, but also in multiple fabrics.
As it takes 3.4 or 3.6 metres of fabric (depending on which size I go for) I thought I could combine several teal fabrics from the resources centre (aka the stash) and have a nice coat.
I generally buy coats so this would be a departure for me, and hopefully a good use of some wool fabrics from my resources.


Kenora

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2017, 22:32:43 PM »
Somebody else on here was going to make that coat, but I'm sorry I can't remember who it was! Perhaps they'll see this post and join in.
Minding my P's & Q's in Portreath

Manuela

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2017, 22:39:18 PM »
Hi Ruthie, good to see you here. I love sewing coats, but unfortunately don't have the time to sew anything until June when the course ends. In my dreams I'm sewing a trench coat in denim lace.
What interfacing are you planning to use, sew in or fusible? I'm usually an advocat for sew in interfacing as it (in my opinion) lasts longer and can be used for shaping and manipulating the fabric when wanted/needed.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #3 on: December 19, 2017, 22:55:55 PM »
I'm not sure what interfacing I would use and I probably won't start until after Christmas now.
The instructions have you using fusible interfacing just in the collar and front band area and I'm looking for a casual soft coat rather than anything formally tailored (its not really my style) so I'll probably go with that, I don't want to make it too hard or it'll never actually get done.
The office where I work is too warm to wear the wool jackets I've sewn in the past so I thought I'd get more use out of a coat, and this style is loose enough to have a jacket on underneath which I can't really with some of my other coats.

Manuela

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2017, 23:00:17 PM »
Ruthie, sewn in interfacing doesn't necessarily mean stiff or hard. When I made Mr Manuela's Sherlock coat, I used cotton canvas as sew in interfacing to keep the woll soft and mallable and allow it to drape.

Lizzy777

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2017, 00:05:49 AM »
Somebody else on here was going to make that coat, but I'm sorry I can't remember who it was! Perhaps they'll see this post and join in.

It's here where the other thread is on this coat.
http://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,2933.0.html

sewruthiesews...
I'm just waiting for my fabric to arrive. I think the type of interfacing to use also has a lot to do with the type of fabric you decide to choose and the look you are aiming for. I intend to use iron on interfacing too and my fabric is a wool blend (or it will be when it arrives).

I'm going to start making mine after Christmas too.

« Last Edit: December 20, 2017, 00:23:30 AM by Lizzy777 »

Morgan

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2017, 09:16:44 AM »
I bought Love Sewing magazine and really like the idea of sewing the coat pattern B6423 which is included with it. . .

The design line of the J curve seams on that coat is an attractive feature and the reason why a friend made up this pattern.  I helped her with the pattern fitting.

I urge you very strongly to do a toile forcthis particular pattern, or at the very least tissue fit the pattern before cutting into good fabric.
A toile would be a better try out choice because it's not just about the fit, in my view it's necessary to check whether the the style of the coat works with your proportions in a way that you find pleasing.  Proportions in terms of both height and width.
On my friend's body shape  the silhouette was 'a brick'.

My friend is 5'2 and RTW clothes size UK14-16 with a C/D cup. Her body shape is
 a rounded hourglass tending toward pear shape.
Due to the fullness of the style and the loose fit of the styling, we decided to cut one size down from what the pattern indicated. 
Also we adjusted the shaping of the shawl collar.  It's very wide as in comes to just over the shoulder point. We took about 3 - 4cm off the edge at the back and over the shoulders to show a little bit of the shoulder.  When the collar edge came to her shoulders the visual effect of the coat on a 5'2" person was a brick.  with some shoulder showing it was a little better, but basically it still made her look like a brick. 

On the pattern views, the drawn illustration in grey gives the best impression of the lack of shaping and indicates the 'relaxed' styling.  Due to the style of this coat, for the proportions to work there needs to be a lot of leg length on view to balance out the width.  It really is a style for taller people.

My friend's beautifully made coat with an (expensive) gorgeous lining was donated to a charity shop and someone, somewhere will have a brand new, unworn, excellent, well made coat.

It's a casual, unstructured style so choose your fabrics carefully.

If dipping a toe into making a coat, then to avoid disappointment, again I recommend anyone too double check carefully that the style will suit their body shape and please them before cutting into nice fabric.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2022, 11:42:14 AM by Morgan »

jen

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2017, 09:45:27 AM »
Great advice from Morgan to do a toile. Although you don't want it complicated think about putting in a back stay. This takes hardly any time but often hugely improves the hang of a coat.

UttaRetch

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #8 on: December 20, 2017, 13:12:33 PM »
@Morgan: you made all the points that militate against my wearing this style of coat, although I am a little taller then your friend.

Ravingdoll

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2017, 13:36:21 PM »
As a 5ft 8in (Gl)amazon I would be ok then! 

UttaRetch

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #10 on: December 20, 2017, 13:53:52 PM »
 0_0 If I recall correctly you are quite curvy, so you would be a tall brick.  I really have no desire to look like a bollard.  :D

Tamnymore

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #11 on: December 20, 2017, 14:18:28 PM »
Yes it was Sewbee who mentioned sewing this coat so perhaps you could have a  mini sewalong. I like sewing coats, largely because I love tweed,  but they do take up a lot of space in the wardrobe.

Love the idea of stash as resources centre - makes it sound more like something official rather than a hoarding habit! I shall be visiting my 'resources centre' later on today.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

SewRuthieSews

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #12 on: December 20, 2017, 16:08:02 PM »
I love the pockets on the coat and the fact that its a fairly modern style which I could fit my work jackets under.
I am 5' 6" and a size 16-18, with reasonably broad shoulders. I am a slight pear but relatively straight through the body.

I wasn't originally planning on a test garment, but I have plenty of fabric which isn't great colours for me so I could definitely try making a version up and see what it looks like.
I am unsure about the back pleat, thinking that might be quite uncomfortable to sit on in the car.

Hmm food for thought.

Tamnymore

Re: Coat sewing
« Reply #13 on: December 20, 2017, 16:27:39 PM »
I think the back pleat is a nice feature. I don't think it would be uncomfortable to sit on unless you used a very heavy fabric in which case other bits, like the collar, would seem bulky too. Are there any reviews of this pattern on pattern review? Always a good place to check especially for patterns that have been around a while and therefore are likely to have been reviewed.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde