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help with crop top underbust bands


help with crop top underbust bands
« on: January 05, 2018, 02:56:28 AM »
I am working on two types of crop tops and need some general thoughts on both.. One type is just a crop top and has an elastic band 1" underneath the crop top to help keep it snug... Question is how to apply the elastic... leaving one end of the band/crop top side seam open so the elastic slides in the casing and floats, serging the side seam, casing and elastic... or overlap the elastic ends and fold lycra strip over elastic to create a full circle to attach to crop top...

On the second type of crop top, this one has mesh below the crop top, extending to the shorts, so the belly is not fully exposed.. The AD likes the look of the band under the crop top, but should there be elastic in the front and back of the band if there is mesh below it? and how do you (if you have done this) secure the band so it stays down... do you stitch it to the mesh (zig zag)  or just tack it at the side seams? 

This might be confusing in reading, I hope not though! I am working my way through but frustrated at not know the best way to to these! Thanks!
Doing what I love and loving what I do... sewing...


Re: help with crop top underbust bands
« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2018, 11:36:12 AM »

Crop Top 1 - If the elastic doesn't need to be covered on the outside - overlay the ege of the elastic over the single raw edge of the fabric and either coverstich or 3step ziz-zag stitch for a lapped join.  Process complete in 1 pass.
I prefer to complete the side seams and attach the elastic in the round.  Join the elastic by either overlapping and stitching a box or butt join with joining strip feature (I prefer the butt join method because it's flatter and easier to attach at that section).
Depending on the production assembly order, an alternative is to attach the elastic to the front and back bodice sections, then either overlock the side seams or coverstitch or flatlock for flatter lapped joins on the side. 

Crop Top 1 - If the elastic needs to be covered on the outside - Elastic covered on the outside -

how about using the lingerie method (also one of the ways used to attach leg elastic - Attach one edge of the elastic to the fabric with a narrow zig zag stitch then flip the elastic to the inside and use a 3 step zig zag or coverstitch to anchor. 
Again you can either overlock side seams or make a flatter finish with coverstitched or flatlocked side seams. 

Crop Top 2
If and how the band is secured will depend on the assembly order.
If the front and back are completed and the the side seams stitched (overlocked, flatlocked or coverstitched) the elastic is secured in the side seams.
If the side seams are completed first a quick tack down at the side seams will secure the band if it's needed. 
Part of me thinks that if the elasticated band fits correctly, why wouldn't it stay in the correct down position.


Re: help with crop top underbust bands
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2018, 19:29:34 PM »
At work we would do this for all elastic channels (trousers, tops, cuffs etc)
Crop top 1 with 1" elastic, we would either add 1 1/2 as a hem, overlock and fold it up. Top stitch on overlocking. Top stitch the edge of the hem. Then unpick either SS or CB seam on the inside of the channel you have created in between the 2 top stitched lines (does this make sense at all?) pull the elastic through, overlap and zigger.

You can also do the same but add an extra 1/2" to the hem and fold this under first for a neater finish.