The Sewing Place

Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend

DementedFairy

Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« on: February 04, 2018, 02:30:57 AM »
So, making a wedding dress [probably] for a friend's daughter.  She tried on quite a few yesterday, and the chosen style has a full A line skirt, with layers of blush pink tulle.  If she decides on a train, there are large lace motifs around the hem.
The bodice has a fairly deep plunge sweetheart neckline, overlaid with ornate lace, but is completely filled in with stretch illusion mesh quite high to the throat.  Small cap sleeves in the lace, and a largely sheer back in the illusion, with more large lace motifs arranged symmetrically to the million tiny buttons down CB.
The back 'bodice' is little more than a waistband as far as I can make out.
It was a posh shop with a very alert assistant, so I couldn't do my usual dissection and examination of everything.
PLEASE COMMENT AND ADVISE ON HOW YOU WOULD DO THIS

My thoughts-
  • bodice foundation/corselette, boned, fasten back waist with lingerie hooks and eyes.  Attach illusion bodice sections to the inside of this, to hold it close to the torso- HOW?
  • Base dress, princess seams in lightweight taffeta
  • blush tulle layers- no idea how to add so much volume while not having bulk at the waist?
  • Overlay lace appliqués to build bodice, cap sleeves, and that back design- adding button loops to reinforced edge of illusion mesh/lace sandwich??

Please comment!  This was easier with my daughter's dress, as she didn't have the plunge neckline OR low back, and it was still a complicated construction [for me!]
C'est moi!

Manuela

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2018, 02:48:09 AM »
@DementedFairy
Now, I avoid bridal stuff like hell, currently keeping a very low profile in order not to be roped in making the wedding dress for my stepdaughter's upcoming wedding. She doesn't know what she wants, lives on the other side of the world, and I have enough on my hand with my course...

So, here are my first thoughts:
- bodice foundation/corselette, boned, fasten back waist with lingerie hooks and eyes.  Attach illusion bodice sections to the inside of this, to hold it close to the torso- HOW?
=> I'd attach it by hand, before lining the dress. That way the cut edges are covered and you have enough possibilities to play around during fittings

- Base dress, princess seams in lightweight taffeta
=> sounds good, but methinks medium weight might be the better option. It has a lot to hold, hence a stronger fabric might be called for.

- blush tulle layers- no idea how to add so much volume while not having bulk at the waist?
=> cut it as a full circle and add width for gathering if still needed. The full circle should give you quite a bit of volume.

- Overlay lace appliqués to build bodice, cap sleeves, and that back design- adding button loops to reinforced edge of illusion mesh/lace sandwich??
=> most probably a lot of hand sewing of lace motifs onto mesh/tulle

DementedFairy

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2018, 02:54:40 AM »
Excellent- I forgot to mention I'm suggesting they buy a fairly voluminous net petticoat online [possibly layer two] to save me having to worry about supporting the skirt.  The dress was very lightweight.
I've identified the maker and style [yay Google Fu] to get closer shots
Allure style 3117
They say champagne, we saw blush pink.  Interesting!

I like the circle layer idea, and fully expect lots of hand sewing.  It's penance for past misdeeds
C'est moi!

Manuela

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2018, 03:23:21 AM »
Hmm, looking at the pictures in the link, it looks like the whole mesh/appliqué layer is sewn on top of the taffeta bodice, not inserted into it. That might make things easier, especially of there is a bit of stretch inthe mesh.

DementedFairy

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2018, 03:25:45 AM »
Hard to say, the mesh could be inside, the appliqued lace covering the joins.  Not a clue.  I also don't see any seams at the shoulders...am I missing something or has it been draped over, possibly using the selvages for thee back opening?
C'est moi!

Manuela

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2018, 03:29:06 AM »
That image shows a shoulder seam.


DementedFairy

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2018, 03:32:01 AM »
Hurrah!  I am a blind old bat, thanks for that!
C'est moi!

BrendaP

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2018, 10:23:26 AM »
You are brave to take on a wedding dress. :*

Something like this should be enough to hold the skirt out.  If it's anything like the "fifties" petticoat I bought the top part will be stretchy elastane jersey and the rest will be organza with a softer layer underneath. 

My "fifties" slip had two layers of organza but it was so full that I cut one layer away.

I think that the dance dress people will be able to give more suggestions, but it looks to me to be:
base layer of taffeta; bodice front and skimpy bodice back and skirt.
middle layer; flesh/blush/champagne net.
top layer; lace.

Any support will have to come from the taffeta layer, but if she wears a good long-line bra it will possibly be enough.  The net layer will need to be strong enough to take a zip (and hooks and eyes for security!) and the lace over the bodice will need to be chopped up and appliqued over the net to get it symetrical and to cover the CB seam.

Kate Middleton's wedding dress comes to mind, that had lots of hand appliquéd lace motifs.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

DementedFairy

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2018, 10:57:12 AM »
Yup indeed- I've asked them to get a petticoat asap, and it shouldn't be a major deal to bone the corselette/foundation, as it isn't an actual corset [no back] so the elasticity of the illusion net should do a lot of the work.  She's got a good figure so I'm not combating gravity too much!
I remember the hours spent working out how to do my daughter's dress 6 years ago, with no images to work from- at least some of the stages are familiar.
I actually love making wedding dresses, if I could guarantee sufficient orders, I'd do it full time- but I'd need a dozen orders like this every year to cover all eventualities...
The hand sewing is fine, it works as therapy after stressful working days, listening to my audiobooks.
I think I should set her the task of making a duct tape double to make life easier through the fitting stages [she doesn't have a car, and does have 2 small kids, so gadding about is a pain]
C'est moi!

maliw

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2018, 10:57:59 AM »
I will follow this with interest. Will your dress need a waist stay to help with the fit and help to hold everything in place? DD is getting married soon and I am making an underskirt for her dress, she has looked online but most are too short or too long. She bought her dress online - I was worried to say the least when she told me but for what she paid, the dress is amazing. It needs one or two tweeks - which one doesn't, thank you Mrs Mole
https://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/2018/01/ for all your advice, so that is one of my 'to do' jobs.
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

DementedFairy

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2018, 11:09:16 AM »
I would have bought the slightly too short petticoat and added a single net flounce, but then, I'm lazy!
C'est moi!

Ravingdoll

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2018, 11:28:27 AM »
I don’t think anyone on here buys that you are lazy Fairy! I can’t work out whether you have a really good heart taking this on, or a glutton for punishment. Both I suspect  :angel: :devil:

DementedFairy

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2018, 11:44:11 AM »
Lazy as hell- I won't do stuff that doesn't need doing, use every shortcut imaginable [trace a pattern?  Not in this lifetime] and cut corners that won't be seen.  Life really IS too short.
This is in the nature of balancing some karma from years back, when the family helped me out at an all-time low.  All it takes is my time, so I can manage that.
C'est moi!

Tamnymore

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #13 on: February 04, 2018, 12:12:13 PM »
No practical advice from me I'm afraid, as this is well beyond my capabilities but I think you deserve a medal, a halo or possibly both, @DementedFairy . But if there's some conservation of karma going on then so much the better.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Ravingdoll

Re: Fairy Finking- wedding dress for a friend
« Reply #14 on: February 04, 2018, 12:17:28 PM »
Lazy as hell- I won't do stuff that doesn't need doing, use every shortcut imaginable [trace a pattern?  Not in this lifetime] and cut corners that won't be seen.
I’ve yet to trace a pattern, and it’s not something that features as a priority any time soon.  I’ve just made a skirt and I didn’t have enough fabric for the waistband, so I used something else - doesn’t matter as I always wear elasticated belts with skirts as I like the ‘cinch’. 
Anyway I am really looking forward to seeing this one being made so don’t go disappearing on us again will you?!