Pattern altering or hacking

[Samantha]

I think I'm going to make this dress for my brother's wedding in August




With the fabric (shown below) which is silk.

However it's too low at the front and the back (for me for a wedding, I think I should be wearing a bra) and too long.

I am ok with altering the length but it's the front and back I'm not so sure about.

Could I make the front and back less low by altering that pattern (you can see there is a midriff piece the bodice attaches too that could make it tricky?) Or I just use another bodice altogether?

I like the back of this dress a lot more than the front (I would be less self conscious about having a dress with a low back than I would the plunging front) so is there a way to keep the back as it is but insert a mesh or lace panel? What would go with the fabric? And then how would that affect getting the dress on and off? Or get one of those bras that has a really low strap (any good?)

Any suggestions people?

[Bodgeitandscarper]

Do you think stretch lace panels front and back would work?  Then you might still be able to get into as well!

[sewingj]

Sadly I`m not skilled enough to help but do agree that it is too low at the front for a wedding guest.  I think the back would be ok though.  Could you install some sort of cups for the front so you didn`t need a bra?  I`m sure some of the dance outfits experts will be able to help

[Greybird]

Do you have enough fabric to make it's own separate camisole? It would probably need to be fairly fitted so that it didn't gape through the gaps. Alternatively you could fit a panel of the same fabric into the front and not worry about the back.

[lakaribane]

I only found this online and that's some serious cleavage:

http://pagelucky.com/portfolio/vogue-1474-pattern-review/

I think it would be hard to alter the pattern, based on this made up version because the neckline shape, both back and front, doesn't make simply raising it very easy. Especially the back which seems to be a wrap?

So I also vote for inserts or an underlayer. Or wide, embellished straps, strategically placed to cover your bra? Or would that still be too bare?

[Acorn]

I just wanted to say that that fabric is gorrrrrrrrgeous!   

[Samantha]

@Acorn  thank you - Liberty Silk bought from Goldhawk Road at £10 a metre!

Great suggestions so far but looking at the real life one @lakaribane posted I think it needs to be a new bodice really.

[Goth Gardiner]

You could probably sew the two cups together for an onch or two.  Or as suggested some kind of insert.

But I think both would look like a bit of a fudge - it is one thing doing such an alteration when something has turned out wrong but i wouldn't start out with a pattern that I know is going to be wrong.

I love the skirt.  I would use another bodice pattern though.

How about something like this:

https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8727

I'd go for the green version and add some kind of sleeve - but then I'm a really, really old fogie who can't imagine going to a wedding in a sleeveless dress, although I know from experience this year that that is now completely acceptable.

[Samantha]

@Goth Gardiner perfect! Very similar to the current bodice but less revealing! I'm going to make the green version bodice. And the pattern is half price at Sewdirect.

[lakaribane]

I'm a really, really old fogie who can't imagine going to a wedding in a sleeveless dress, although I know from experience this year that that is now completely acceptable.

Well, I am only 40 and I think the same thing, about church in general! It may be a tropical climate where I am, but it just looks too casual to me.

Also against animal print as funeral wear...

[sewingj]

The rules have definitely changed especially for non-church weddings.  Many brides wear dresses that are just as revealing as that!  But at the same time I don`t think you want a guest`s cleavage dominating the wedding photos!

[lakaribane]

Well, if the midriff+v-neck 40s combo is what you are looking for, I desperately need B5902 in my life:

https://butterick.mccall.com/b5209



You could make the sleeve+upper back in a fancy, beaded fabric and the rest solid. Or something.

I really LOVE LauraMae's floral print version, so cute!

http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2015/05/watercolor-impressions.html

[UttaRetch]

What about



This reviewer stitched up the cups a little from the band.

[Morgan]

Rather than hacking or redesigning the bodice, it may be more practical to choose a pattern with the correct bodice style and hack/redesign the skirt.  You still have to fit the bodice but that's more straight forward than redesigning the bodice then testing and fitting the new pattern
The skirt will be much more straight forward because it's adding draped flounces.


Viw B of Butterick 5322 could be a good candidate - it's great for fitting as well with princess seams on the bodice.

[DementedFairy]

Well, if the midriff+v-neck 40s combo is what you are looking for, I desperately need B5902 in my life:

https://butterick.mccall.com/b5209



You could make the sleeve+upper back in a fancy, beaded fabric and the rest solid. Or something.

I really LOVE LauraMae's floral print version, so cute!

http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2015/05/watercolor-impressions.html

I have several of these- really, really nice pattern, and a sensible height back if you go the halter route, so you can still wear a bra.  The filled in version is lovely too