The Sewing Place

Narrow chest adjustment?

sewingj

Narrow chest adjustment?
« on: February 10, 2018, 17:11:33 PM »
I`ve come to the conclusion that I need to do a narrow chest adjustment as I keep getting a baggy area above my boobs .

 I`ve had a quick look for tutorials and am a bit boggled as there are different methods.  Does anyone have a simple technique?  Please bear in mind that I am not expert at adjustments!  Initially I want to do it on a fairly simple t-shirt pattern but  at some point I will probably have to combine it with a small bust adjustment (also new to me!)

justpottering

Re: Narrow chest adjustment?
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2018, 07:52:44 AM »
Sewingj if its baggy above your boobies chances are you need to use your upper bust measurement for your pattern 'bust size' then do a FBA for your full bust

I have to do this all the time because if I make to my full bust size its too big at upper bust, shoulders, neckline and upper back by using a size that fits my upper bust it all fits nicely in these areas

You would have to check that it would still fit your back, if back is currently OK then use usual size for back and smaller size for front
Its easier to do it this way than try to alter upper bust and shoulder area

JP
« Last Edit: February 11, 2018, 07:57:08 AM by justpottering »
JP
Dressmaker - but first......tea

Ravingdoll

Re: Narrow chest adjustment?
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2018, 11:29:15 AM »
If you have to consider a SBA and it is too baggy around the upper bust are you sure you are using the right size pattern and maybe it would be worth trying a size smaller?  I often make two sizes smaller than my full bust measurement as I have a 42inch bust but narrow shoulders and back and necklines often gape.  I also have a 31inch waist and 40 inch hips so I am a little top heavy so if I made for my full bust then I would be making an 18 (in most pattern sizes) whereas I actually tend to make a 14 and do an FBA.  Even then I sometimes get a bit of excess in the high bust area and neckline but because it is only a little I pinch it out on the tissue paper - it’s best to do a couple of little pinches rather than a big one - and make sure you don’t distort the sleeves (although it is easy enough to alter back again if you do.) 

sewingj

Re: Narrow chest adjustment?
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2018, 13:33:05 PM »
Thanks both

Sadly my upper bust measurement is virtually the same as full bust so that doesn`t help
I have tried going down a size but then everything else is too tight - I must admit I hadn`t considered using  a different size for the front and the  back so that might work

This morning I have just pinched out some of the tissue above the bust for the t-shirt I am making; and that seems to have been effective.  (I don`t know if it is the "correct" method but I don`t suppose that matters if it works)

Ravingdoll

Re: Narrow chest adjustment?
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2018, 13:41:11 PM »
Well since I do that all the time and never felt I had to arrest myself I guess it must be ok! I think you are right, whatever works for you.

primulascotica

Re: Narrow chest adjustment?
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2018, 07:50:33 AM »
This lady has quite a good explanation about narrow upper chest and how to adjust. Don't be put off by the top image of the blog. The lady does not look like that. She's just an ordinary individual shape, just like the rest  of us. However, she does wee tutorials very well.

sewingj

Re: Narrow chest adjustment?
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2018, 08:42:58 AM »
Thanks Prim - I`ve saved that link for later.  I am currently trying to do my first small bust adjustment - took me all day yesterday - lots of screwed up paper and 2 toiles - but I might be getting there!

BrendaP

Re: Narrow chest adjustment?
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2018, 10:50:50 AM »
However, she does wee tutorials very well.

Being a sassenach, at first I took that to mean something related to potty training! 
 :o :fish: :ninja:
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/