The Sewing Place

Wrap dress grainline

Mocarroll

Wrap dress grainline
« on: February 20, 2018, 11:55:13 AM »
Could someone advise me please? I am making this in a stretch jersey with a horizontal match. I have spent ages doing an FBA adjustment and tissue fitting. The instructions are to place the fabric on the straight grain parallel to the wrap seam.  This seems counterintuitive to me as I thought the wrap should be on the bias. Help please? It has a band to finish the seam.

Efemera

Re: Wrap dress grainline
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2018, 12:41:18 PM »
I would think if it’s cut on the bias it would really stretch so having it on the straight grain will add stability...it will look interesting in stripes.

UttaRetch

Re: Wrap dress grainline
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2018, 13:23:16 PM »
@Mocarroll: I wouldn't depart from the instructions.  This is a very popular pattern with no less than 45 reviews on PR.  Unless you have an account over there, you will only be able to read the most recent reviews.

lakaribane

Re: Wrap dress grainline
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2018, 13:52:35 PM »
I think the bias is for woven wrap dresses, so the neckline molds to your shape.

IMO, it's useless in a knit. Cut it with the straight of grain. However, I would stabilize the edge anyway, with a stretch knit interfacing, either Vilene/Vlieseline or a narrow strip of interfacing.

Mocarroll

Re: Wrap dress grainline
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2018, 17:43:53 PM »
Thank you everyone, I knew you’d help me out.  That all makes sense and I chose the pattern on the basis of the favourable reviews on PR... I think it was on the best pattern list of 2016.  Will post pictures when it’s done.

BrendaP

Re: Wrap dress grainline
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2018, 18:14:30 PM »
I'm not sure what you mean by 'wrap seam'.  The diagonal front? or the waist seam?

Stretch is normally around the body, so if your jersey has the most stretch selvedge to selvedge then cut on straight grain, if it has most stretch lengthways then cut crossgrain.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.