The Sewing Place

Pattern for this leotard?

Marniesews

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #15 on: February 28, 2018, 20:44:14 PM »
The tutu pattern definitely seems the best option to recreate this particular leotard. The princess seams would be unnecessarily complicated right now without a commercial pattern but I remember what efforts you make and the determination you possess to get the job done so I believe it'd be a good time to make a master pattern for your next one.

You just need to get a basic leotard pattern and fit it as well as you can to create your master pattern which you can remodel/hack to adapt to other styles. You'll still need to make some alterations as she grows but they'll be less trouble than starting from scratch each time.
Aka Jacky F in a former life...

b15erk

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #16 on: February 28, 2018, 21:13:59 PM »
Have you got an old leotard that you could hack about a bit?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Lolli

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #17 on: February 28, 2018, 21:24:42 PM »
You can get a stretch tutu pattern from Dani Legge direct or Tutus that Dance or Tutus and Textiles that has mock princess seams, much easier.
This tutu uses that pattern and she also explains in the instructions how to do the nude insert.
Good luck and just keep asking  :D

I've been searching all evening on the internet and came across those stretch tutu patterns, it was the only thing that fully resembled what I was after.  Am I right in reading you buy the instructions separately? I don't mind at all of course, as I plan to be brave enough to attempt a tutu one day....maybe a stretch tutu is an ideal first step before attempting bodice type? I may be completely wrong in thinking that but I'd still like to make tutus with it anyway 👍


You just need to get a basic leotard pattern and fit it as well as you can to create your master pattern which you can remodel/hack to adapt to other styles. You'll still need to make some alterations as she grows but they'll be less trouble than starting from scratch each time.

How do I make a master pattern?  Using the tutu pattern or a basic leotard pattern? You remember me well Marniesews 😂 I am determined to figure out this adjusting/tweaking patterns malarkey. It would open up many options if I could do it.
When you get to the end and realise your bobbin ran out at the beginning....

Lolli

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #18 on: February 28, 2018, 21:27:59 PM »
Have you got an old leotard that you could hack about a bit?

Jessie

No because I'm stupid. I threw away all my daughters old ones a few weeks back. I could kick myself   :(
When you get to the end and realise your bobbin ran out at the beginning....

Lollipop

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #19 on: February 28, 2018, 22:24:20 PM »
Am I right in reading you buy the instructions separately?

I am afraid you do, and you only get one size so it can get quite expensive to build up patterns. Stretch tutus seem to be becoming very popular lately but I have to admit that I prefer making structured tutus with piped bodices. Fiddly and faffy but very satisfying. Jalie also have a princess seamed tutu pattern that has a lovely shape but isn't as straightforward as Dani's.
Was Sewnanny

Marniesews

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2018, 23:10:07 PM »
How do I make a master pattern?  Using the tutu pattern or a basic leotard pattern?

You just choose a basic leotard pattern ideally with a fairly simple neck and choice of sleeves. Either Kwik Sew or Jalie would be a good choice depending on which proved to be a good fit with the others you made previously. Perhaps finding an all-in-one leotard rather than one with sewn on panties would be the best so you'll be able to move the waist up and down as desired without altering the panties every time, a centre back seam is good although you can always slice the back and add seam allowances if your pattern doesn't have a back seam. Next cut out and make up a sample and alter it until you get the very best fit then make alterations to the pattern to reflect the changes that you made at the fitting session/s.

That's your master, simple as that! Once you've got this you'll be able use this pattern to trace from to hack into different styles such as a mesh yoke above a sweetheart/straight cut or deep V neckline, a keyhole front or back opening, a low back with criss cross straps etc etc. and know they will fit.

You can create another master from a basic raglan pattern and use that to create a halter neck, a triangular back opening etc.
Aka Jacky F in a former life...

Lolli

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #21 on: March 01, 2018, 09:06:25 AM »
I am afraid you do, and you only get one size so it can get quite expensive to build up patterns.

Ah that was going to be my next question. If once you've bought a pattern in one size,  can it be adjusted to other sizes. I don't mind having to buy other sizes though (I just won't tell my husband 😂)
From looking at the two available, I'm presuming I should go with the Russian one to make this leotard as the Classic has the panels on the waist?

I do also want to attempt a structured tutu one day (one step at a time Sarah!).
When you get to the end and realise your bobbin ran out at the beginning....

Lolli

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #22 on: March 01, 2018, 09:25:25 AM »
You just choose a basic leotard pattern ideally with a fairly simple neck and choice of sleeves. Either Kwik Sew or Jalie would be a good choice depending on which proved to be a good fit with the others you made previously.

I have this Kwik Sew pattern, it's the one I used when making the two lyrical dresses. It's in women's sizes and at the time (2 years ago believe it or not!) if you remember I had issues with it being too low at the neckline for my DD who was only 13 at the time and I had a lot of faff to sort that out. She's now got her womanly shape so it would probably be o.k now?
Just wondering if the empire seam is a problem as regards to using it as a master?

Next cut out and make up a sample and alter it until you get the very best fit then make alterations to the pattern to reflect the changes that you made at the fitting session/s.

Have I got this right?
Make it up, put it on (inside out?), pin to fit, sew, take apart at seams, trace, draw on the pattern any design changes, cut out from that and remake?
« Last Edit: March 01, 2018, 09:27:38 AM by Lolli »
When you get to the end and realise your bobbin ran out at the beginning....

Lolli

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #23 on: March 01, 2018, 10:56:12 AM »
Is the best thing to use for elastic the same as before? The rubber tape from Tutus and Textiles? And would it be feesable to just buy some cheap elastic for the trial and error bit?

I'm still deciding whether to go for the tutu pattern (seen as I've not done costume making for a while) or to try the master pattern option 🤔
When you get to the end and realise your bobbin ran out at the beginning....

Marniesews

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #24 on: March 01, 2018, 11:14:08 AM »
The master pattern option would still require you to get a pattern with some of the design features for this particular leotard because of the princess line styling. In theory you can hack a base pattern to include princess seams but I've not attempted that myself yet and is why I wasn't recommending it for this current leotard. That means you'll still be looking for a pattern and, although there's some expense I know so many ballet makers really swear by Dani's tutu patterns.

I have this Kwik Sew pattern, it's the one I used when making the two lyrical dresses. It's in women's sizes and at the time (2 years ago believe it or not!) if you remember I had issues with it being too low at the neckline for my DD who was only 13 at the time and I had a lot of faff to sort that out. She's now got her womanly shape so it would probably be o.k now?
Just wondering if the empire seam is a problem as regards to using it as a master?
It could do you as a master for leotards with straps but, if you did want to do leotard styles with shoulders it won't help with that. Because you're doing ballet costumes rather than ballroom & latin like me, you may find you make more of this style - the only thing that might be a problem is the empire line. I say this because it's probably not a straight cut and the pattern maker may have used the seam to create shape by effectively using it as a dart (as princess seams do). That means you can't just cut & paste the two edges together to make an unseamed leotard pattern.

For my DGD I originally used Kwik Sew 3661 which gave me a fitted blank canvas to hack and restyle into a range of different styles. Your requirements are a little different for ballet as you're not making the same skirts as me or attaching a dress over a leotard base but you may decide that 3 classic patterns would give you lots of options at your stage of sewing:
1. scoop neck leotard
2. strap top leotard
3. princess line leotard

Have I got this right?
Make it up, put it on (inside out?), pin to fit, sew, take apart at seams, trace, draw on the pattern any design changes, cut out from that and remake?
That's about it and make sure you mark your retraced pattern as the fitted version with a few notes on what alterations you made (if any). Your test garment can be remodelled and reused if there aren't too many alterations (won't be any good if you've had to dart out a sway back but other alterations may leave it perfectly usable). You keep that tracing as your 'master pattern' and if you want to change the style you just trace it again to be the basis of your new style and draw your style lines on it and trace other bits from it adding seam allowances as necessary.

You can see in the attached photos one of the trace-offs from my master pattern and the lines that I drew on it for creating a lace yoke and two different back necklines (the pattern was cut out with one to use with a cowl back and then I'd drawn on another for a plunge back. The smaller paper pieces are the separate pattern pieces traced off with extended overlap sections for the construction process.

Aka Jacky F in a former life...

Marniesews

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #25 on: March 01, 2018, 11:16:17 AM »
Is the best thing to use for elastic the same as before? The rubber tape from Tutus and Textiles? And would it be feesable to just buy some cheap elastic for the trial and error bit?

Yes, you can use cheap elastic for trial and error if you need to go that far on your trial garment but you should compare the stretch of the rubber tape to it so you know to make it longer or shorter when you do the final job.
Aka Jacky F in a former life...

Lollipop

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #26 on: March 01, 2018, 13:22:44 PM »
Hi Lolli, yes it's the Mock Russian version, I don't buy swimsuit elastic just buy knit elastic that stays the same width when it is stretched.  You can adjust the amount you use depending on how stretchy it is.
Yes you can adapt a pattern if you are clever enough (I'm getting better at it!) and if the change is fairly small, although I do have a few sizes in the tutu patterns that I use.
I have quite a few different Jalie patterns (multisize) which are great for making custom sizes and custom styles too.
Was Sewnanny

Lolli

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #27 on: March 01, 2018, 14:27:51 PM »
Thanks for the photos Marniesews, I understand what you've done there. I suppose it's all trial and error to begin with when adjusting patterns until you've got the hang of it. I think it may be a good idea for me to stock up on plenty of cheap lycra to play with!
There's no rush for me to make this leotard and therefore I'm not scared because I don't feel under pressure haha. I can approach it calmly  :S
If you've not attempted to add princess seams to a base pattern, there's absolutely no way I'm trying it! 😂
I'm going to go for the tutu pattern because at least for now, the only adjustment (I think) I'll need to make is the plunge at the front.

Lollipop re: adjusting the sizes, if you're 'getting better at it' with  all your experience, I've got no chance right now so I think over time I'll buy multiple sizes instead 😂

Any particular brand of nude mesh to go for? Also do I need to buy a certain lining material? Many thanks for all the advice received so far, it's very helpful to me 😍

« Last Edit: March 01, 2018, 14:34:11 PM by Lolli »
When you get to the end and realise your bobbin ran out at the beginning....

Marniesews

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #28 on: March 01, 2018, 15:16:27 PM »
Nude mesh: assuming you don't want to buy the pricey stuff from DSI or Trim-It... several places sell it but I know the following are worth trying:

* Showtime Fabrics do a reasonably priced range. It's not the very best quality but will last a few years as long as it's not worn week in and out.

* Tia Knight has quite a big range of colours so if you decide to try that take care not to get the corsetry range as there is far less stretch in that (for obvious reasons) but I recently got some of that (not sure how good the quality would be) to insert bra cups into for internal support and it was actually very good.

To understand why I've not yet attempted to add Princess seams to a master pattern you need to be aware that they replace darts and are normally drafted to include a vertical shoulder dart (or armhole dart) and waist dart. This is why princess seams can create such a great fitting shape. However, all the info I had on creating princess seams were from patternmaking books for woven fabrics and described how you manipulated the princess line to encompass these darts. This info on drafting through the darts should help you visualise my rambling more clearly!

Now all the commercial stretch patterns that I had were dartless so I was unsure how to go about it. CarolC might know more than me about this although it is explained in my drafting book for stretch knit fabrics and is on my list to experiment with, but still a little way down my list.
Aka Jacky F in a former life...

Lollipop

Re: Pattern for this leotard?
« Reply #29 on: March 01, 2018, 18:56:30 PM »
Lolli, although I've been sewing for 50 odd years, I have been making tutus and stretch dancewear for about 3 so not that long. Books, You Tube and asking friends have helped enormously; and practice with loads of mistakes that are usually consigned to the bin or dressing up box.  :D
Was Sewnanny