The Sewing Place

Stabilising shoulder seams (again)

sewingj

Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« on: March 17, 2018, 16:48:56 PM »
When you are sewing knits and stabilising the shoulder seams, does it matter if the tape (or whatever) is fixed to the back bodice or the front bodice?  And which way should the seam be pressed afterwards?

I thought I had read that the tape should be fixed to the back - but then instructions usually say to press the seam to the back - which can end up being rather lumpy if the tape is in the way (I hope I am making sense)

Please bear in mind I don`t have an overlocker so I usually sew the seam with a straight stretch stitch and then finish it by sewing the 2 layers together with a 3-step zig zag before pressing to one side

Francesca

Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2018, 17:27:08 PM »
I would think that it would be neither, as the tape should sit across the seam in order to stabilise the whole seam. Otherwise, it's only protecting one piece of the garment from stretching.

Marniesews

Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2018, 17:39:25 PM »
I don't always have to stabilise the seam with the very stretchy spandex as it has good retention but when I do I usually put it on the side of the seam allowance that won't be folded underneath for the reason you're giving.
Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2018, 18:26:39 PM »
I put mine on the back and if the seam is overlocked it's pressed towards the back.  That way the stabiliser isn't visible.  It,s applied to the seam allowance. I often edgestitch the seam after. 

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2018, 19:53:36 PM »
Mine goes whichever side it happens to be - I usually forget to think about it!  As you say, it makes pressing the seam allowance to the back a bit lumpy, so I prefer the front, and who's going to see it anyway. 

BrendaP

Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2018, 09:42:14 AM »
Whichever way you do it, it needs to be sewn with the shoulder seam which is usually pressed towards the back. 

I don't think it matters whether it's facing the front or the back as it's not seen in wear so do it whichever way looks neatest.

Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

DementedFairy

Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2018, 13:17:47 PM »
I would think that it would be neither, as the tape should sit across the seam in order to stabilise the whole seam. Otherwise, it's only protecting one piece of the garment from stretching.
Nah- if it's stitched into the seam, the seam is stabilised, totally irrelevant which side it's on
C'est moi!

Francesca

Re: Stabilising shoulder seams (again)
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2018, 13:58:12 PM »
Nah- if it's stitched into the seam, the seam is stabilised, totally irrelevant which side it's on

Oh I thought sewingj was planning to add it afterwards then (thus not stitched into the seam). I'm not that sure as I always use my overlocker so it goes inside the stitches.