The Sewing Place

Metallic thread shredding problem

Vezelay

Metallic thread shredding problem
« on: March 18, 2018, 10:33:55 AM »
I recently bought some Hemline metallic thread but when I'm topstitching with it, every few inches it starts to shred/strip. I'm following the usual advice which is:

- using a (Klasse) metallic needle
- placing the spool on a vertical bobbin holder
- reduced thread tension to 2
- sewing on the slowest setting


My machine is a Janome DXL603, pretty standard I think, and causes me no other problems whatever I ask it to do. I've tried the metallic thread both in and out of the lower thread guide but there's no difference. The fabric is quilting cotton - again, no difference with or without batting.

Is there something else I can try? I really love the metallic effect for my crafts but it's just too frustrating and time-consuming to have to keep stopping, rethreading the machine and restarting the topstich line - and keep it looking OK.

Any help much appreciated.

« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 10:47:26 AM by Vezelay »

Iminei

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2018, 10:50:19 AM »
Sometimes they do ... da di dah ... Sometimes they dont ... di di dah

I have sewn metallics before, sometimes they behave wonderfully, other times not!
Why??? who knows?

I make sure I use a purple tip needle as it has a larger eye and larger channel for the thread to run along ...  and also have found that placing the spool in a cup alongside your machine helps ... Why?? Who knows?

Give it a try ... nothing to lose

Alternatively, stop, go away and do something else and come back to it another time.
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

Morgan

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2018, 12:11:46 PM »
You could mess around trying this and that for days with that thread or you could set it aside it and get a better one.

Not all metallic threads are equal and if you want to avoid much pulling out of hair, blue air etc. avoid the cheap stuff, find a  decent thread that works for you and stick with it. Everyone has their own very personal preference for what to use.
I usethese cones and often I forget to reduce the tension and they still work okay on my machines.  As there isn't a proper purple in my preferred metallics brand, I use spools from another brand for that colour.  There are other brands that make decent quality metallics and you should find the one that you prefer from those you can get in your area.

Basics (whether for decorative stitch or machine embroidery) =
Top Stitch needle - remember once you've used a needle for metallic thread, don't use it for any other thread because the metallic thread can wear a slight notch in the eye
** Ensure the needle is the correct size so the thread sits right into the groove which is there to protect the thread as it's pushed up and down through the fabric.
** Ensure that the thread unwinds from the spool/cop/cone without twisting so it doesn't go into kinks that pull tight because that tightened kink/twist becomes a breakage or shredding point waiting to happen.
Polyester bottom thread aka bobbinfil or underthread  (ideally 60s weight thread which is thinner than sew all thread)
Reduce the top tension
Use stabiliser underneath
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyetAo9te5A
Ideas for what to do with the not so great quality metallic threads - jokes aside I recommend that you watch the video in the next link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1qJR8qoCyE
« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 12:14:35 PM by Morgan »

Iminei

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2018, 12:37:32 PM »
Thx Morgan interesting and informative stuff!
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

BrendaP

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2018, 12:42:51 PM »
I agree with Morgan, it's probably the thread.

There are four basic ways that metallic thread is made.

1, Very fine strips of metallised polyester is twisted together with one or more plies of silk, rayon, nylon or whatever in much the same way as regular sewing machine thread is.

2, A core of core of rayon/nylon/polyester thread is wrapped with the strip of metallised polyester.

3, Strips of the metallised polyester and plies of another fibre are bound together by 2 ultra fine filaments of polyester, one filament goes clockwise, the other goes anti-clockwise.

4, A mix of metalised poyester strip and other fibres are chained together like a long length of crochet chain

1, Tends to be stronger but is sometimes thick and stiff.
2, Probably the shiniest but most likely to shred because the metallised polyester wraping is quite fragile.
3, Usually quite good for machine embroidery.
4, Generally quite thick so not suitable for machine sewing.

If your Hemline metallic is this then it's a wrapped thread.

My advice would be to look for a different thread, probably a twisted one such as Madeira Supertwist or Superior Threads Metallic or Coats Ophir.
Or YLI Candelite if you want something a bit thicker.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 12:57:08 PM by BrendaP »
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Vezelay

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2018, 13:33:50 PM »
Oo er, It's the thread then - I half suspected that! Many thanks Morgan and Brenda for all the info, video links and thread suggestions (and Iminei for making me feel better  :) ). I'll put my two thankfully cheap spools of Hemline down to experience and investigate some decent cones of metallic thread. I struggled on with the project I was half way through and managed to finish it - took 90 minutes of my life instead of 5 but at least it looks OK.

Vezelay

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2018, 16:03:32 PM »
After some browsing (whilst watching the snow pile higher outside again - we had 5 ft high drifts of it in Wexford only 2 weeks ago, lost power and water for days!) I've found these https://www.barnyarns.co.uk/sm.7-gold-500yds.html  - Superior Threads as suggested by BrendaP.

And Morgan said to use 60wt polyester bobbin thread - that's a new one on me - so I found these as a practical solution: https://www.barnyarns.co.uk/superbobs-prewounds-110m-pack-12-assortment-2.html. Superior Threads again, so should be OK.

Great idea in one of the videos Morgan posted to use a spool net to stop the thread twisting underneath the spool. I did wonder about that.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 16:07:54 PM by Vezelay »

Ohsewsimple

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2018, 17:03:10 PM »
I would be careful of using pre wound bobbins.  Not all machines like them.  As regards Hemline thread, yes it's  cheap and not very nice quality.  I have no problem with Gutermann Sulky although the Sulky Sliver can give me a headache at times.

BrendaP

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2018, 18:09:49 PM »

And Morgan said to use 60wt polyester bobbin thread - that's a new one on me - so I found these as a practical solution: https://www.barnyarns.co.uk/superbobs-prewounds-110m-pack-12-assortment-2.html. Superior Threads again, so should be OK.

They are OK if your machine happens to take size L bobbins.  If it doesn't then just get the same thread on reels or spools and wind your own bobbins.
https://www.barnyarns.co.uk/superior-bottomline/
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Vezelay

Re: Metallic thread shredding problem
« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2018, 15:36:45 PM »
Great advice here. In fact I've noticed a definite improvement just from using a spool net and turning tension down to 1 - only one shred in a couple of minutes sewing a decorative stitch and none for a straight stitch. But that's still one too many so I'm ordering decent thread (no prewound bobbins just in case) and a spool holder.