The Sewing Place

Sleeves..

Efemera

Sleeves..
« on: March 27, 2018, 19:10:15 PM »
I’ve got wrinkles sleeves, just below the sleeve head. To me it looks like there needs to be more length in the sleeve head..can’t figure out how to do it without increasing the armscye which is fine. There is already more than enough to be eased in... any ideas?

justpottering

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2018, 19:24:14 PM »
Try raising the sleeve cap? How to add more length without volume I'd have to think about
If you can put your arm out and the wrinkles disappear then probably more cap height is whats needed
« Last Edit: March 27, 2018, 19:27:41 PM by justpottering »
JP
Dressmaker - but first......tea

Efemera

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2018, 19:37:30 PM »
It is more cap height I think I need but can’t think how to without adding excess to be eased into the armscye

Ploshkin

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2018, 20:26:02 PM »
Did you put a line of gathers round the sleeve head?  Would it help the wrinkle problem if the ease was distributed differently?
Life's too short for ironing.

justpottering

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2018, 20:41:34 PM »
Sorry Effie that's what I meant giving the sleeve cap more length don't know why I typed raising it other than I did it on my phone  :S
JP
Dressmaker - but first......tea

Efemera

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2018, 20:53:31 PM »
Did you put a line of gathers round the sleeve head?  Would it help the wrinkle problem if the ease was distributed differently?

No..the set in of the sleeve is OK..It looks like the sleeve cap need slashing across and letting down...

BrendaP

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2018, 12:02:26 PM »
If you have plenty of width in the biceps area you could do the opposite of this

https://www.mariadenmark.com/2015/11/sleeve-adjustment-full-arms/

Make the same slashes to the pattern but instead of opening up vertically open it up horizontally.

Sorry I can't find  anything else online
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

jesster

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2018, 14:13:06 PM »
Quote
To me it looks like there needs to be more length in the sleeve head..can’t figure out how to do it without increasing the armscye which is fine.

I think you may have answered your own question - if you need to increase the sleeve head length more than a very small amount, you may also have to increase the armscye depth to fit the sleeve in. 
There are any number of videos on fitting sleeves on youtube.  This is a bit cumbersome, but a helpful way of finding the correct measurement for the cap height, if you don't already know that is. 
This article also has a good summary of sleeve adjustments.  Maybe there are some clues for your situation?  Sleeves can be as much of a nuisance to fit as pants, sometimes!




Ohsewsimple

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2018, 14:58:56 PM »
Silly question.....is the armhole seam in the right place on the shoulder?   If that needs extending that could solve the problem.  Alternatively, if you need to increase the sleeve cap height, depending on the amount, it is possible to adjust the position of the ease, as Ploshkin suggested.  I have done this before. 

Efemera

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2018, 15:57:06 PM »
I’m beginning to think that the shoulder seam needs extending to extend over fat arm top then the sleeve cap wouldn’t pull over the top arm.... then the trouble is the shoulder looks and feels too big... I think it’s will have to be a compromise ....or stop eating pies!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2018, 17:47:39 PM »
Do you dare post a photo? :).  If you have 'fat arm tops'.....just quoting :) then you may well need an increased sleeve cap height.   I do! :).  Have you measured the cap height you need?
If this is a short set in style  sleeve and it is sticking out from the hem, that's usually a good indication you need more length.
Stopping the pies might work, but takes time.  :) you need to make this now!

Efemera

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2018, 20:44:51 PM »
It’s how to add cap height without adding anything anywhere else that started all this palaver... :S..

Ohsewsimple

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2018, 08:15:38 AM »
Sorry Efemera I'm not making myself very clear.  I've had a couple of stressful weeks and my brain is a bit scrambled  :P
With regard to the ease, it is possible and acceptable to adjust the ease.  Obviously it depends how much is added when cap height is extended.  But you can 'shuffle' the extra downwards towards the notches.   I've noticed on some patterns that ease runs just around the cap itself while on others the ease is distributed from notch to notch.  I don't use commercial patterns myself.  My tutor always had to add extra height to her sleeve caps and used to do it at the cutting stage on the fabric.  The sleeves were then fitted in as necessary.   :)

Efemera

Re: Sleeves..
« Reply #13 on: March 29, 2018, 08:35:48 AM »
Think I’m going to make sleeveless!.. :S...no, I will crack this, I’ll just keep fiddling with adding extra and altering the ease. Thanks everyone for your input.