Mock Up or Muck Up!

[Lolli]

This is mock up number 1, I'm trying to replicate the neon pink one in the pic. I know where I've gone wrong with the nude insert hence why I'm going to make a mock up number 2.
It's not the correct shape, I think I've put the insert too high up and not curved the shape of the top enough which is why it looks too round necked. Anyhoo, trial and error.....hopefully the second one will turn out better.
I'd like the straps to be inbetween the lining and outer but can't think of a way to do it as elastic goes around the top and is folded over. So I've basically sewn them on by hand just on the inside.  The straps are too thick, the market didn't have the width elastic I wanted so I'll also change that too.
Also wasn't a good idea to line with the same heavyweight lycra, it's a bit bulky in the seams.

P.s. How do you turn pics round? 

[Marniesews]

With regard to the pics. I'm not sure why they're rotated but I find that many of the embedded images come up too big to see on screen and won't scroll fully on my phone so I usually read TSP on my laptop and right click then 'view image' which rotates them for viewing the full image.

Now the leotard. I really like the straps but it's what she likes best that counts. The difference in the necklines is partly as you've used a straight top edge for the insert but also because the pink neckline is running straight across at that point too. I can't see the original straight on but it looks as though that's curving down where it meet the mesh. Is it essential to copy it exactly? I only ask as there's nothing wrong with your shape at all.

How did you attach the mesh? Did you cut the pink and then zigzag over the edge? I think can see the stitches just going over very tight to the edge which is quite hard to keep even and although you've managed that here, I think another method may be more foolproof (well I find it easier  ). It's less likely that my stitching will go offline as I'm sewing on a smooth flat surface rather than over a cut edge and less likely to hole the more flimsy mesh.  I put the mesh under the lycra bodice without cutting away the lycra from the mesh section, stitch around the shape and then cut back the lycra as close as I can to the stitching. I've posted these photos before but I'm not sure if you've seen them. It's the technique that I used on this toile when I was experimenting on drafting a sweetheart neck, later made as a purple latin dress.

Honeycomb stitch along the outline (or 3-step zigzag which lies flatter than normal zigzag

Trim close to the stitching

My DGD insists on sleeves so I've done very few with straps (and they were spaghetti straps or grown on) so I'll leave this to others to comment on the best treatment for attaching them to the neckline edge.

[Lolli]

That is exactly how I did the insert. I laid the front piece out, placed the mesh behind it, pinned, marked the shape, sewed along those markings with a zigzag stitch then cut the lycra away. I used a normal zigzag stitch not the 3 step (is that the tricot stitch?).
To be honest I sat staring at it for 20 mins thinking "I don't know what I'm doing here" and I pretty much just made it up as I went along. I just drew the plunge by hand to what I thought was right then sewed it

I knew I'd mess up on the insert as far as placement goes. I've been reading the instructions over and over for the last couple of weeks and still can't quite grasp the clip to dot with the insert. I totally understand it when there's no insert being added but couldn't quite get the positioning of the insert right, then to 'clip' where the top gets folded over. Not sure that makes any sense!

[eclectic]

Hi Lolli, great job on your first mock up ... could it be a typo regarding the clip at dot?. In MHO the way you described doing the insert shouldn't require it (only if you didn't use an insert and were butting/joining the elastic in the V )
   

[Lolli]

Ah thank you.
The elastic goes round the top with just an inch excess either side of the insert which gets sewn onto the stitching of the insert on the inside. Not sure if that makes sense. Will try to take a pic of the instructions, there's a pic of it in the book. I think I either placed the insert wrong or cut it wrong.

[eclectic]

Did I understand you correctly that you are going to make a completely new mock up? if it were me I would put the first mock up back on the dancer and draw the changes to the shape that you want .. you will get a better visual that way and if you think you have put the mesh too high you can mark that too. If it's a case of only reshaping then your second mock up should only be to the mesh and the two front panels... or maybe you were going to do that anyway   

[Lolli]

I do plan to remake the whole thing, simply because I'm a novice and the more practice I get the better.  I've got loads of lycra I got cheap to play with, purposely for practicing with. I want to get the whole construction right from beginning to end before I make the real thing.
I might however still do the idea you mentioned with this one so I gain a bit of experience with taking apart, chopping, putting back together etc

[Lolli]

Pics of the shape it was meant to be compared with what I got. I'm pretty sure it was because I placed the insert too high and also didn't curve the markings enough to create the sweetheart shape.
Also pics of the elastic placement at the top. I realised when I got to this part that I'd done it wrong as when I added elastic and folded it over I lost the sweetheart shape and ended up with round neck.

Just to add, I made the plunge deeper and curved at the bottom on purpose as that's how it is on the one I'm trying to copy

[eclectic]

Hi Lolli, I personally wouldn't worry about the clipping to dot thingy, I really think that is only for when you don't do an insert. You said you did it how Marnie suggested so that shouldn't require any dot clips :-) I also think that once you reshape the front things will fall into place, I've had dancers who like the insert high for coverage and others lower ... its nude supposed to be an illusion anyway so don't stress too much there ... but I think it would help if you put it on the dancer so that you can see where it really sits in relation to the dummy which will give you a good reference for later when you don't have the dancer on hand. What pattern is this ... is see the princess lines are different
ps wanted to post a pic for you but need to go and read how to do that ..or at least look for the button ..silly me I bet its a massive button say attach ... just need to see it ..

[Lollipop]

Lolli that's a different neckline to the one I sent you. That one had a sweetheart neckline but no insert. This type wouldn't really need you to clip to a dot. I think you have made a good job of your first leotard. Just keep practising and watching you tube. I hope I didn't confuse you last week. 

[Lolli]

Very good idea @eclectic It's for my daughter anyway so I'll get her to put it on for me tomorrow so I can check positioning and fit before I carry on. Yes the pic on the instructions is a different pattern to the one I'm makiing but the instructions for insert is the same for both.

[Lolli]

Lolli that's a different neckline to the one I sent you. That one had a sweetheart neckline but no insert. This type wouldn't really need you to clip to a dot. I think you have made a good job of your first leotard. Just keep practising and watching you tube. I hope I didn't confuse you last week. 

Oh, no confusion from you at all!! It's me, I've gotten myself in a tizz over thinking things and because I'm working off two sets of instructions to make one leotard I've not found it easy. Though in the instructions for the nude insert it does say sew insert, clip to dots then cut away lycra? I'm confused! (nowt new there lol)

I'm gonna have another go, if nothing else I'm at least enjoying myself 

[Lolli]

So she's tried it on and it's too low at the front. The fact I've messed it up shape wise and with the lining (it's too thick so less stretch) I know those factors will contribute to that but not only did I have that problem with the last two leotards I made her, we tend to have this problem with all her shop bought leotards too. Don't know what to do about that 

Also the top edge is curling outwards. Have I sewn the elastic in too tight or not tight enough?

[CarolC]

So she's tried it on and it's too low at the front. The fact I've messed it up shape wise and with the lining (it's too thick so less stretch) I know those factors will contribute to that but not only did I have that problem with the last two leotards I made her, we tend to have this problem with all her shop bought leotards too. Don't know what to do about that.

l

If it’s pulling down, it’s probably too short (or more precisely her body is longer than the body it was designed for, ditto the commercial ones). Before you cut the next one, add some extra length to the pattern by cutting it horizontally along the waistline and adding in an even width strip of new paper to front and back. There is a picture here. http://blog.megannielsen.com/2017/06/25006/

How much is hard to say - if the pattern has girth or body length measures like neck to waist and crotch depth, compare hers to what’s on the envelope and add enough to make the pattern match her shape. If it doesn’t, then maybe try something like 3cm. When it’s on, you can always pinch out any extra and transfer that back to the final pattern.

Once you know how much to add, you can make this adjustment before you cut the pattern the first time.

For the elastic, curling out is too loose, I think or you stretched the elastic itself when sewing.

Good luck! You’re doing really well. Xx

[Lolli]

For the elastic, curling out is too loose, I think or you stretched the elastic itself when sewing.

Good luck! You’re doing really well. Xx

@CarolC thank you, it's been a couple of years since I've attempted a leotard and now I remember I got the same tip from @Marniesews on how to lengthen it. There's lots I've forgotten about! I've already cut out the next one but it's o.k, I'm still going to make it up as I want to practice the insert.

It does say in the instructions to pull on the elastic as it's sewn....is that not advisable?

Thank you for your encouragement  xx