Mock Up or Muck Up!

[CarolC]

Err, sorry, stretched the fabric too much..! (I clearly wasn't awake when I wrote that - stretch elastic to fabric, not the other way around!) @Marniesews has a good method in an earlier post for using a lycra binding that you could also try. 

For the leotard length, if it's only a practice piece, you could cut the leotard itself and add a strip of fabric around the middle - just remember to add double seam allowances to the piece you add in since you will lose the seam allowances from the original garment. The length in the body will affect where the insert sits. If the body is longer (and so pulls down less) the insert will sit a little higher.

[eclectic]

Hi Lolli, can you post a pic of the elastic .. then maybe we can see what happened .... yes you normally would 'pull' a bit when your sewing. If you are happy for a bit of practice and experimentation then why not cut your pattern at the waist and add 2 or 3cm to each edge. Still mark the original waistline and then make up then leo in two separate pieces .. this way when you put it on your daughter then you can see where her actual waist is in comparison to the pattern and how much you need to add to the length

[eclectic]

snap Carol

[Lolli]

Got to make another front, messed up the insert again 

It's this clip to dot thing, I keep clipping in the wrong place and/or wrong angle so that when it comes to adding elastic at the top and fold over it looks nothing like it should. I find the instructions quite vague.

Oh well, try again!

[Lolli]

Pics of the instructions @eclectic

[Lolli]

My mistakes. The first one I snipped inwards either side of the insert straight across.

The second one I snipped downwards either side of the insert. Not even bothered doing the elastic on this one as I already know I've done it wrong.

Any help on where I should snip, would be greatfully received

[Lollipop]

Sarah, I think you may have trimmed a bit too much from the top of the lycra where the mesh is inserted. If you had just carried the line of trimming straight up you could have folded it over the join and it would be neater. Getting there though xx

[Lolli]

Sarah, I think you may have trimmed a bit too much from the top of the lycra where the mesh is inserted. If you had just carried the line of trimming straight up you could have folded it over the join and it would be neater. Getting there though xx

I was gonna do that (damn it!!) but with it saying clip to dot first before cutting lycra away I thought it was a separate cut (if you know what I mean).

I swear I've said or typed the words 'clip to dot' so much, I don't want to hear it again!! 

[Lolli]

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  Attempt number 3.
I think the shape at the neckline is more like it should be although it's not perfect. I've made the nude insert too narrow aswell. I'm glad it's just a mock up as I caught the insert with the scissors 
Oh well, I'll have to have another go at the front until I get it 100%

[Lolli]

l

If it’s pulling down, it’s probably too short (or more precisely her body is longer than the body it was designed for, ditto the commercial ones). Before you cut the next one, add some extra length to the pattern by cutting it horizontally along the waistline and adding in an even width strip of new paper to front and back. There is a picture here. http://blog.megannielsen.com/2017/06/25006/

How much is hard to say - if the pattern has girth or body length measures like neck to waist and crotch depth, compare hers to what’s on the envelope and add enough to make the pattern match her shape. If it doesn’t, then maybe try something like 3cm. When it’s on, you can always pinch out any extra and transfer that back to the final pattern.

@CarolC @Marniesews please could you advise. Just reading back through this thread on the above adjustment. I can see on the link what to do but there's no waistline marking on the pattern on where to cut to lengthen. Do I just guess and go by eye?

[b15erk]

When I've lengthened a body Lolli, I just draw a line across the waist, and put a cross mark over it (to match both sides together).  Cut your strip - I would cut 2" to get !".  Again draw a line across, to match to the waist.

Cut the pattern apart, put the strips underneath, and match all the cross marks.  Adjust to the length you need, tape it in, and hopefully that will solve your length issue.

Any probs, just ask.  I'm not the best at describing techniques.

Jessie

[Lolli]

You've explained that perfectly @b15erk That's incredibly helpful, thank you 

[b15erk]

Lolli, if this is just a mock up garment, I would add a piece of fabric to the length - just cut it in half and sew it in - over the top will do, just to see how it affects the look of the leo.

Jessie

[CarolC]

Hi - yes, that's exactly what I'd do too. If this is still a practice piece, just chop it in half all the way around the narrowest part, sew in a new strip, and adjust from there rather than wasting more fabric and time. You may need to adjust the side seams, too.

When you are happy, mark her bust waist and hip lines for future reference and use all your adjustments to adjust the original pattern.
xx

[Lolli]

Excellent thank you both. I'll do that first instead of adjusting the pattern piece. I'm only going to end up doing that anyway when I've added a piece into it. Also want to try the insert again so may aswell. Saves me making yet two more mock ups....two birds, one stone and all that.
I'm going to know the instuctions for this leotard like the back of my hand by the time I've finished