How can I change this neckline

[sewingj]

I have used this pattern a couple of times - but to make nightdresses rather than tops/dresses. 

https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6747

the first was a disaster as the neckline was huge and stretched badly.  The second time I raised the neckline a couple of inches and interfaced the neckband so it wouldn`t stretch.  That is ok but next time I would quite like to get rid of the neckband completely -  but I would still need to do something to stop it stretching.

Any ideas? (It`s probably not relevent but I use press-studs rather than buttons as my machine doesn`t like doing buttonholes on jersey)

[sewingj]

I don`t know how I would finish it without the neckband! 

There is a row of top stitching next to the neckband but that didn`t help at all with my first attempt - the whole neckline seemed to grow every time I wore it - so much so that it ended up falling off my shoulders!
Interfacing the neck band has stopped the stretch but it means that I`ve virtually got a mandarin collar which looks a bit weird.

It`s just occurred to me that it might look better if I still interfaced the neckband but made it narrower.  But then there wouldn`t be room for a press-stud on the neckband.  I will have to try on version 2 and see if it would be ok without the top fastener

[DementedFairy]

It does look like a wide neckline- depending on your fabric, it will want to stretch different amounts.  Often the recommended length for a neckband is way too long, then you get this effect.  Stay tape on the neckline, rather than interfacing, should work well- interfacing can tear and stretch, especially the cheaper non woven iron on stuff- it rarely works well on knits in my experience.

[sewingj]

@DementedFairy    Thanks - I did wonder if I should be stabilising the neckline rather than the neckband.  Please can you recommend some stay tape that is suitable for knits?  Do I want some that is fusible or sew-in?

[DementedFairy]

@DementedFairy    Thanks - I did wonder if I should be stabilising the neckline rather than the neckband.  Please can you recommend some stay tape that is suitable for knits?  Do I want some that is fusible or sew-in?

I don't always use it- only on very lightweight or VERY stretchy knits [you get used to judging it]
I use this one mostly
amazon link

[Hachi]

How about finishing the neckline with picot/lingerie elastic?
I have made a tank top using picot elastic to finish neck and armhole opening.

[BrendaP]

To get rid of the neckband completely you will probably need to do a facing - as Fran says just turning and making a hem on a curved edge is pretty tricky.

To get it to the same shape as the original you will need to raise the neckline by the same amount as the width of the neckband, or if you want it a bit higher raise it more.  Then use the pattern pieces with the raised neckline to trace the facings.  That way you will have room for a button or a press stud.

I suggest a stretch interfacing for the facings.  That should support it enough not to stretch out of shape, but not be so rigid as to look odd.

[Yellowfeather]

If it were me sewing Lycra (different I know), I would stay stitch the neckline on the garment the. Use the binding like elastic, and stretch it as you sew it on, then it should keep its shape.  If you haven't done this before, make a test piece and see how much stretch you need.  On Lycra fabric it is quite a lot, but not sure about jersey.

[Vezelay]

Just a thought - cotton lycra should keep its shape while 100% cotton may not. Could that be it? Also I use knit stay tape from The Sewing Workshop (owned by Craftsy's Linda Lee). Postage was steep but worth every penny - works beautifully I find.

[Catllar]

I'd stabilise the neckline using an iron on stretch lightweight interfacing.