The Sewing Place

My First Overlocker

Greybird

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2018, 22:29:28 PM »
I have a Janome overlocker and I agree with Ellabella about the order of threading - it is different to what the instruction book says. That said, the instruction book is perfectly good in all other respects and mine came with a DVD showing you how to use it.  I can also recommend Hobkirks - I bought my sewing machine from them and their aftersales has been excellent.

Lolli

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #16 on: April 19, 2018, 23:59:08 PM »
I agree and think it's best I take a trip to Hobkirks to try some out. It would be a risk to buy off the internet when I don't even know what I'm doing,.
I'd want to know how well it cut, how noisy it was, how it handles different fabrics, how to thread it even! At least they'd be able to show me the basics.

What fabrics are advisable to take for testing?

BrendaP

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2018, 00:06:30 AM »
Some very stretchy lycra, some thick fleece and some lightweight cotton or poly-cotton and maybe some heavier fabric such as denim.

The basics are to use the overlocker alone with 4 threads to make seams in the lycra and the fleece and to use 3 (or 4) threads to neaten seam allowances on the wovens.  If it does those OK it should be all right for the fancier stuff like lettuce hems or flat locking.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Lolli

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #18 on: April 20, 2018, 00:22:38 AM »
Brilliant thank you @BrendaP

One more question (probably not my last unfortunately), do you have to change all the threads each time to colour co-ordinate different projects?

Ploshkin

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #19 on: April 20, 2018, 07:02:30 AM »
Most people would keep a range of basic colours.  I have a set of 4 reels each of black, white, grey, navy and beige.  If sewing seams and the stitching might show from the outside you can always use a thread to match the fabric in the left needle and a basic colour for the other 3.  It could all get a bit expensive otherwise.
Life's too short for ironing.

Lolli

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #20 on: April 20, 2018, 07:52:39 AM »
Brilliant thank you  :flower:

CarolC

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #21 on: April 20, 2018, 09:18:06 AM »
Coming very late to this party, but - I now have a Bernina MDA1150, which is good. It replaced a Brother 1034. I do prefer the bernina, not least as the threading works more often, but it's not thaaat much better, nor that much quieter, and I think I preferred its rolled hems.  Depending on your budget and needs, the less expensive machines can just fine.

For the colours, it depends on what you are sewing - for rolled hems, useful for lightweight dance skirts, you will need a complete matching set as the whole set of stitching will be visible. If it's inside seams, then you can use a plain colour in the loopers, but I never bother to change down just for that if I'm also doing the hems. You don't have to get the massive cones in fancy colours. William Gee does packs of 10 x 1000yd spools of Moon in lots of colours for about £5 (I use these and they are fine), and the same of Gutterman for about £15 (£1 and £2 respectively for a single spool). Those will last you for ages. http://www.williamgee.co.uk/shop/coats-sewing-threads-moon-120/

There was a thread on the old TSF about overlocker threads and air threading that suggested that the air threaders were more finikity about thread.

When you go to the shop, also take a piece of something lightweight like chiffon or organza to try the rolled and narrow hems. I'd also suggest getting them to show you the 3-thread overlocking. Lycra, even the heavy stuff, is still quite thin and I find that the narrow stitch sits better.

Have fun. xx

Elnnina

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #22 on: April 20, 2018, 10:59:11 AM »
I’m another Bernina fan, in fact have two Bernina overlockers, one has the ability to convert to coverstitch though. 
When I went on an overlocking course when I had the first Bernina overlocker, there were other makes being used, and the noise from these was considerable.  Okay the Berninas are likely to be far more expensive, but the stitching and ease of changing to a rolled  hem is just superb.

Morgan has always suggested to people to download some workbooks from  the USA think they are called     Mastering your Bernina (then either it is for a sewing machine or an overlocker)    and although these are for Bernina overlockers you can still follow these through and stitch out some samples for any make of machine, and by doing this it helps you get to know your machine.  I would go along with what BrendaP has said take as many samples of fabric that you can muster to try out, and then bring all these pieces back with you, and make a note of what or how you have changed any settings.  Even include some  old knitwear then you can be shown how to use the differential feed setting which is essential on this type of fabric.

One thing you will need though is an abundance of needles, as you will need to change  the needle/needles every garment on an overlocker or after every 8 hours of sewing.  It really does pay to stop and clean out the machine every time you use this as the amount of fluff and debris  just builds up and can then get caught up within the overlocking which is not good.  Oiling regularly is also essential – just think of the speed with which these machines stitch – they work extremely hard.

I personally do not like the Moon threads, I find them hairy and sort of scratchy, but others on TSP find them fine – so it is very much down to personal choice. I also am one that likes my overlocking thread to match the colour of the garment I am sewing – but then that is just me being really fussy.

If and when you go to Hobkirks and possibly come back with a machine, you will probably need to buy some overlocking threads to get you started as there is only likely to be a small amount already threaded up on the machine –just lengths of thread not reels.  Quite often people use something called Woolley Nylon on the upper looper and this thread sort of blossoms out after sewing, giving excellent coverage, however finding this particular thread is not easy and can be expensive.  If you are planning to use the overlocker for ballet leotards then you may well find this woolley nylon is just what you need.   Have a look on some purchased garments and see if you can see those which have a more covered seam than others.

I started off with an Elna overlocker and this was whilst Elna (Switzerland) was still in existence only of course the overlocker was made in the Far East.  This was fine and worked well up until three weeks before my daughter’s wedding when enough was enough and I had to buy a new overlocker hence my switch to Berninas and what a difference.  Today Elna is part of the Janome group.

By the way some overlockers have a thread catcher that is attached to the front to collect all the debris that is cut away during stitching, other machines do not have this, however you can make yourself a  bag that opens up and has a long flat piece that the overlocker sits on and this will catch the debris – or you can use a plastic carrier bag which is not so pretty!

Wherever you go to look at these overlockers, make sure that it is you that can sit down and try out the machine, and then try as many different ones as you can – all prices and that may help you decide which one is for you.  Sometimes a dealer may have one he has taken in part exchange so you could find a real bargain.  I personally would not go for the cheapest as they are going to be noisy, possibly difficult to thread and you may find has to go back often to be sorted out.

Start saving!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Kad

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #23 on: April 20, 2018, 15:13:22 PM »
@Lolli As you live in gloriously sunny Leyland why not take a trip up the M65 to Colne and visit Empress Mills, they have thread on cones that is very suitable for overlocking and are also very helpful and knowledgeable too. Since I got my Janome 634d many years ago I've never been anywhere else for threads and their cones of 'polycore' last me literally years. I've had woolly nylon from there too.They also have a good selection of stabilisers and fabric so what's not to like  :devil:
« Last Edit: January 24, 2022, 21:23:01 PM by Kad »
'Jill' of many aspects of sewing, "Mistress" of few.

Lolli

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #24 on: April 20, 2018, 17:01:41 PM »
That sounds great @Kad thanks for the tip. Not too far from us at all, an excuse to 'nip' in to Immanuel's on the way  ;) ;)
My DD competes in a dance festival at Colne once a year so I can certainly take advantage of that if I'm getting low around that time.

I swear I'm going to look like an overlocker with the amount of overlocker thinking I'm doing lately. My OH discovered today that SMD are only 1hr 20 mins away but both SMD and Hobkirks aren't open on Sundays which is an issue for me. Saturday's are so busy with my DD dance classes amongst other things and working full time, I know a visit like that wouldn't be a half an hour job.
I know what's going to happen here. My impatience will get the better of me and I'll end up buying one online. Would that really be so bad if I did what I always do and thoroughly research and check reviews?  :S

Lolli

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #25 on: April 20, 2018, 20:31:20 PM »
I really, really like the look of this one. I've been watching YouTube videos on it and I know I've got nothing to compare it to, but it's impressed me.

Quite a lot more than I was going to spend but....


Elnnina

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #26 on: April 20, 2018, 22:36:03 PM »
Oh that looks like a good machine and should do you proud.  However it is essential that you go and try this model out for yourself, will probably knock the spots of other cheaper machines.  I see that it has the thread/debris catcher on the front – brilliant.

One thing you can be doing from home and that is to go searching for an overlocker book from the second hand bookshops – try abebooks.com or amazon market place.  There are a few books around but nowhere near as many as books for sewing machines, and a worthwhile investment to the sewing room.

So you have something now positive to go saving for – good luck.

Lolli

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #27 on: April 21, 2018, 00:25:20 AM »
I'll do some Googling and try to find shops within my area that have it so I can try it out.
A book will no doubt be a good investment, I'll have a look for one of those too.

Thanks @Elnnina

BrendaP

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #28 on: April 21, 2018, 08:38:52 AM »
I second most of what Elnina said.

The difference is sound between a Brother 1034 and the Bernina 1150 MDA when I test drove the two of them was quite significant, although a lot of people on here are happy with their Brothers.

Re thread, I'm another who doesn't like Moon; it's quite hairy and quite thick.  If you are using an overlocker for neatening seam allowances you do not want thick threads! 

I often use the regular thread (usually Guetermann SewAll) in the needles and the big cones of overlocker thread in the loopers.  I have all the basic colours, but just last week I was sewing some purple lycra and I bought a couple of Guetermann Miniking and it's lovely and fine.  If there is any show-through of thread on the right side it will be the left hand needle thread.


Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Lizzy777

Re: My First Overlocker
« Reply #29 on: April 21, 2018, 10:59:44 AM »
Why not try Bambers? They've been around a very long time and they do Bernina too. Its only just over 30 minutes away from Leyland ?

http://www.bambersew.com


lizzy