The Sewing Place

Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)

sewingj

Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)
« on: April 28, 2018, 16:32:38 PM »
I`m trying to get to grips with doing a small bust adjustment and getting very jaded.  My high bust is the same as my full bust (37) so, going by various methods on t`internet, I need to lose about an inch - which then has conseqences for everything else!  Tutorials are few and far between - most just say "do the opposite of a FBA" but I`ve been following this
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuaZZRiM-n4
on this pattern
https://www.sewdirect.com/cgi-bin/sh000003.pl?WD=7575%20mccalls&PN=McCalls-7575%2ehtml#SID=1396
and have ended up with tiny bust darts and have got rid of the waist darts because they just looked weird!

I`ve also read that it should be easier to do on a princess line pattern so am considering this
https://www.sewdirect.com/cgi-bin/sh000003.pl?WD=6076%20mccalls&PN=M6076%2ehtml#SID=1396

or would I be better looking at something like this which has no darts
https://sewdirect.com/acatalog/McCalls-7629.html
..but if I did , I don`t know how to made the SBA because all of the tutorials involve cutting through the darts to move the side piece in.

Sorry if I am rambling - really hope someone can make sense of this! 

ps although I want a blouse that is well fitted over the bust, I can`t have it too fitted lower down because of pot belly!

Afterthought:- if I used the pattern that has no darts - might it work if I used a size smaller for the front than from the back?
« Last Edit: April 28, 2018, 16:41:46 PM by sewingj »

Tamnymore

Re: Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2018, 17:10:58 PM »
I'm pretty sure that princess seams with no other darts at the front would be a good idea @sewingj then you can adjust the curve to suit you round the bust and ease out the waist if you need that. Some patterns come in different cup sizes (e.g. Simplicity  Amazing Fit) so you could start with an A cup and hopefully make minimal adjustments from there.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

sewingj

Re: Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2018, 17:40:51 PM »
@Tamnymore   I have made an Amazing Fit dress before but even that starts at a B cup - I`m obviously a freak of nature!

sewmuchmore

Re: Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2018, 17:47:30 PM »
I have found this article useful in the past. I have today cut out this which has no darts. I will let you know how it goes.
It's not easy being this perfekt

Janet

Tamnymore

Re: Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)
« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2018, 18:00:39 PM »
You are right @sewingj they do start at a B cup - how useless! I still think you could do  well with princess seams taking out a bit of the excess curve. Alternatively there are   looser shirt patterns if you don't want a fitted look, like this one
shirt pattern
Simplicity patterns are still half price for a few more days so worth looking there.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

sewingj

Re: Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)
« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2018, 18:24:03 PM »
@sewmuchmore   I really like that pattern!  I hope you can make it work.  Keep me posted!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Help choosing pattern for small bust (very disheartened)
« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2018, 13:16:09 PM »
Oh my.  I'm sure there are lots of folks on here, me included,  who would trade places for their huge FBA'S they have to do.  :).
I'm going to throw a spanner in the works here.  You need to lose about 1" overall.  How much ease is there in each pattern?  The dartless one looks to me to be a loose fit anyway.  So would it matter if the extra inch was there?  To do a SBA just as with a FBA you need to locate the bust point first.  That should be marked on the pattern pieces. I say should because sometimes they aren't, especially on indie patterns.   :angry:  once you know where that is, then just make the SBA.  If you need to add width lower down, then make that a separate adjustment. 
With the darted patterns,  check the finished width given on the pattern at hip level or measure the pattern pieces where you need the extra room.  Check those against your personal measurements.  Don't forget to add ease to those.  I find the best way to determine the necessary width is to wrap a tape measure round.  Holding on to the tape measure, sit down and allow the tape to expand to where it needs to.  This is the required finished width you need.