The Sewing Place

Cousin's graduation dress

Francesca

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #15 on: May 22, 2018, 13:10:51 PM »
OK, finally getting going with this. Gathering supplies.

I have her measurement chart:

5' 4"
Chest 84cm
Bust 85.5cm (I reckon that's an A cup?)
Waist 64.5cm
Hips 90.5cm
Nape to waist 37.5cm

She's also given me the measurements to her knee and to her desired hem length.

I've decided to make things a bit easier for myself as I've never sewn this sort of neckline before (I don't wear spaghetti straps so I've never sewn them) and purchase Vogue 9252 which has the correct shape. I will want to drop the front neckline a bit as it looks too high for the look she wants. I will be making a toile, so I can guesstimate for now and change once it's on her.

The only thing I'm not sure about is petite adjustments. She is 5'3". I've never had to do proper petite adjustments, though I guess technically I do because I am "petite" in the torso (short nape to waist, just like her, thanks Nanny!) so maybe it's the same. Use the shorten and lengthen lines? I am going to put in the straps with lingerie rings so she can tighten it up. The fabric has elastane so I plan to make it fitted as I know she will want it fitted, and she's smooth enough to get away with very low ease, no lumps and bumps! I mean seriously, why didn't I get any of these genes?!

Looking at the Vogue measurement charts she falls between a 10 and 12. So with above fittedness and elastane I'll go for the 10.

The only concerning measurement is the nape to waist. She is 37.5cm and the size 10 is 40.5cm. She is much more in line with Vogue's petite but sadly this pattern doesn't have petite selections.

I guess I can infer the height difference based on the difference between suggested 40.5cm to 37.5cm. So need to remove 3cm. Should I do that as 1.5cm from both the waistline and above the bust?

I am going to use the skirt from the pattern DF suggested.

Fabric is the white cotton sateen from Fabric Godmother. It's lovely quality.

b15erk

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #16 on: May 22, 2018, 13:21:07 PM »
Look forward to seeing how this shapes up. 

Spaghetti straps aren't a problem - turning them is the problem!  Depends how wide you do them.  For turning, try sewing a piece of thin ribbon into the tube, securing at one end, when you have sewn right sides together, then pull the ribbon, et voila! I tend to do one very long strap and cut it in two as well, it save fiddling, and turning twice.

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Francesca

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #17 on: May 22, 2018, 13:28:10 PM »
I have rouleau turners already so turning is a drama no more  ;)

lakaribane

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #18 on: May 22, 2018, 16:00:44 PM »
I guess I can infer the height difference based on the difference between suggested 40.5cm to 37.5cm. So need to remove 3cm. Should I do that as 1.5cm from both the waistline and above the bust?

I would shorten between Bust and Waist only and do what you said re:straps. The dress has no shoulders or sleeves so Bust Depth isn't really a problem.

For reference, I'm 1,53m and almost never shorten above the Bust in Big4.

And going down to a 10 might help mitigate any cup size issues she might have, hopefully!

Francesca

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #19 on: May 22, 2018, 16:06:02 PM »
Luckily the pattern comes with multi cup sizes rather than the standard B. I will check the internal sheet when the pattern arrives but I expect with such a small difference an A will be the one. Plus, I will fit the toile on her and if it's too big on the princess seam I can pinch out any excess and then use the toile taken apart to redraft.

My only concern is fitting it actually on her.

She doesn't have a car so it's hard to get to me (3hrs of trains and quite expensive). She is coming down with the family on the 17th June and I plan to have a toile then for her to try on. If the toile is fairly successful then I was hoping I may be able to cut the real thing with her there and at least tack her into it to get it fitting really well. If the toile is unsuccessful and needs major work then I am concerned I won't get her down here for a second fitting. So fingers crossed I am able to get most of the work done on that morning! Mum and Nanny are coming too but later and I'm a bit concerned if they all descend at once then it'll be too many cooks in my sewing room!
« Last Edit: May 22, 2018, 17:13:15 PM by Francesca »

lakaribane

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #20 on: May 22, 2018, 16:53:20 PM »
I would explain all this to her and try to get the most done when you two are alone and have peace of mind to do it.

Plan your meals, clear your schedule, lock the door!!! Good luck!

DementedFairy

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #21 on: May 22, 2018, 17:23:37 PM »
I'm 5'3" and never need to shorten bodices, but often drop bust point an inch or so.
C'est moi!

Francesca

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #22 on: June 13, 2018, 11:54:31 AM »
Back from holiday now, need to get my mind on this as I want the toile done by Sunday and I'm out (fabric shopping for another thing for someone else...)

Questions and thoughts:

Lining. I have a wonderful piece of cotton silk in white that I could use to line. Just enough left for the bodice. However I could use this piece to line the flower girl dress I'm making so might be worth getting something else.

Considering the elastane in the main fabric that I want to use to my advantage, should I get a stretch lining? It seems like it could be awkward to work with a stretch lining. I was considering a light lining fabric and cutting on the bias to make use of the small amount of stretch. Thoughts?

Also, what fabrics? Habotai maybe but it takes a while to arrive from abroad and then a silk lining from the shops over here gets expensive. Should I purchase more of the cotton/silk? I'm going to Goldhawk on Saturday so can get some, but it is also fairly expensive for a lining and I've charged my Auntie for the main fabric and the dress pattern but don't really want to ask for more.

Other than that I just need to trace up tonight and get going on this toile.

b15erk

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #23 on: June 13, 2018, 12:00:26 PM »
Stretch lining isn't difficult to work with at all - at least I haven't found it so.  I've lined the Amelia Teadress with a fine stretch mesh to accommodate the shirring stretch, and it's behaved beautifully, although I did add facings in the fashion fabric in case of 'peeking'.

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Greybird

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #24 on: June 13, 2018, 14:04:35 PM »
I've used stretch lining without any problems too and I've also bought polyester habotai on Ebay.

Francesca

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #25 on: June 14, 2018, 09:50:27 AM »
Excuse the rather boring brain dump of a post, I just like recording things.

Traced off last night. She fell between a lot of sizes (once I got the envelope opened they were a little different on the pattern sheet). Her bust size puts her firmly in an A cup size 12 for her bust however her waist and nape to waist are much shorter, putting her in the 10. I decided to try and balance it a bit by sizing down into the 10 at the bust and cutting the B cup. If it's too roomy in the bust I can pinch it out.

I also cut a 12 for the skirt as per her hips and will need to blend it in to the waist size.

I have no idea how to do the petite adjustments without her here. She is 5'2", pattern drafted for 5'6". I have her nape to waist measurement but because the pattern is low on the back piece due to being strappy I can't measure and work out how much longer it is (it's actually exactly her nape to waist from the low back neckline, so definitely too long). I've considered just sewing up the bodice as-is and not attaching it to the skirt, then doing a fold and pin on the actual garment to work out how much to remove. I'll also leave the neckline as-is (too high for her) and just use pinned ribbons as straps so we can cut away the neckline height down to what she likes.

Thank god this is a fairly simple dress!

She asked how much it would cost to make one in yellow gingham as a cute summer dress. Gingham costs nothing in the market so am considering sewing up a second wearable toile after Sunday's bedsheet one and posting it to her fully finished so she can check it's comfortable.

b15erk

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #26 on: June 14, 2018, 09:55:07 AM »
Sounds like a great idea Fran.  I'm doing something similar for Theo.  I'm making a wearable toile to check size before daring to cut into the 'proper' fabric.

La Sewista does a lot of petiting of patterns, and I'm sure there are other blogs and tutes out there.  I've never needed to petite anything.... :S

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

BrendaP

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #27 on: June 14, 2018, 10:26:22 AM »

I have no idea how to do the petite adjustments without her here. She is 5'2", pattern drafted for 5'6". I have her nape to waist measurement but because the pattern is low on the back piece due to being strappy I can't measure and work out how much longer it is (it's actually exactly her nape to waist from the low back neckline, so definitely too long).

It depends whether she is really "petite" ie limbs and torso in proportion, or just short with 'normal' torso and short limbs.   If her nape to waist matches that of the pattern (as printed on the envelope) it suggests that she's short rather than petite, and all/most of the length adjustment will need to be on the skirt length.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Francesca

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #28 on: June 14, 2018, 10:28:59 AM »
I meant that the nape to waist matches the actual length of the pattern piece, despite the fact that the neckline sits several inches below the nape. I.e she is definitely petite. (If I sewed it up as-is, that dropped back would be right up to her neck). Sorry I probably shouldn't have added it, it's not particularly relevant. Comparing apples and oranges (full back length vs back length with a dropped neckline). I was more just trying to demonstrate that she is very petite.

Still, I'm gonna go ahead and sew up the toile as-is so I can adjust the pinned on straps and waistline directly on her. I should then be able to attach the skirt with her there to get an idea of the proper hem.

Francesca

Re: Cousin's graduation dress
« Reply #29 on: June 17, 2018, 19:58:38 PM »
Successful fitting today! The quick toile I made of the bodice last night was almost perfect. It was too long as expected though it was actually too long mainly above the bust point, just like the adjustment I always have to make. Straps a lot shorter too. The pattern straps are a lot more chunky than the lingerie rings allow for, so I may not use them and will just use the measured ribbons on the toile. Also took up 1.5cm at the waistline, pinched a little out at the top of the princess curve and a little in at the back neck.

We managed to get everything done and skirt on just as the rest of the family descended. Lots of argument about hem length (her shouting "pull it up more!" and everyone else shouting "downwards!" I agreed somewhere in the middle. Her Dad looked at me with pleading eyes to make it longer haha. I also cut it wonky in this picture, so it does need to be longer (you can see my "X" is the "too short" side and hidden is the "tick" side which is right). But she wants it mid thigh and I'd rather she's happy in it even if I think it's a bit short!

Spot the most useful tool in the background...

« Last Edit: June 17, 2018, 20:00:40 PM by Francesca »