Dance leotard

[Sewgood]

Hello, i have been asked if I could make a dance leotard for someone.  I did say I hadn't made one before but was willing to try.  She left an old one for me to look at.  She wants something similar only in a different colour.  Can't work out how to get the applique bits done.  Has anyone done this kind of suit before and could help me. Er, don't know how to attach a pic.

[Sewgood]

https://i.imgur.com/349Hk5k.jpg

Hope this link shows the leotard

[Marniesews]

I've pondered on having a go at more intricate appliqués but it's not quite right for ballroom & latin. I've never been asked for them.

It's often done by those sewing for modern dance and especially rhythmic gymnastics so asking on one of the groups and forums where they gather would give you the best support. I'm sure some of our number are experienced in this but, if you don't get the response you need, consider joining one of the facebook groups like Spandex doesn't scare me where this type of leotard is very popular.

[b15erk]

I can't give a lot of advice as I haven't done this myself (only on stable fabrics), but I would have a go with some cheap lycra fabrics to find a method which suits you.  There are a few costume people on the forum, and hopefully they will soon find this thread and be able to offer help.

Jessie

[Yellowfeather]

Hi, this leotard might be a bit of a challenge if you haven't made one before!  However, if you are up for the challenge, then I would do something like this.  The leotard is basically a nude mesh layer (or use flesh coloured lycra) and a coloured lycra layer.  I would cut out the flesh leotard pieces, and stick the coloured lycra applique to it using temporary glue.  Sew the appliques to the leotard pieces, and then make up the leotard.  Hope this helps a bit.

[Sewgood]

Thanks yellowfeather I understand what you are describing and I'll give it a go on some cheap fabric.  Would you trim away the mesh from beneath the coloured fabric once it is appliqued on or just leave it there.

[Sewingforfun]

@Alangus makes rhythmic gymnastics leotards with appliques like that - she might have some advice/tips. xx

[eclectic]

Hi @Sewgood not sure if I am too late to help, but I personally would leave the nude as lining and not cut it away. if you do cut your fabric away you need to make sure your 'applique' stitching is strong enough to hold it together under stress. Good luck and happy sewing ... I love making these leotards ... well anything with bling 

[Alangus]

Hi @Sewgood

I agree with the other advice on laying the appliqué on top and leaving the mesh under, it gives a nice smooth finish.

You don't say if you already know how to sew stretch or have ever sewn a leotard before. If not then the first step is to learn how to handle the fabrics doing tests with cheap lycra and elastics, and then learn how to make a simple leotard.
Once you are happy doing that I would do lots of test swatches of cutting and sewing appliqué, it takes a bit of practice to get it looking good. Also once you start layering stretch fabric it can reduce the overall stretch so it is good to test for that reason as well so that your finished leotard is not too small.
If you are not drafting your own pattern then maybe try something like Jalie patterns, they are good for blending sizes between them and they make a wide range of dance and gymnastics patterns.
To make the appliqué pieces I copy out my overall pattern piece onto paper,  then I draw the various appliqué shapes onto them. I trace these off onto another sheet so that I have both the main pattern for the mesh patterns for the appliqués. I then either transfer these designs to the fabric using chalk paper and a tracing wheel or by putting on top and cutting. I draw my designs freehand, I don't use templates, its not hard once you get going. 

I looked through youtube videos and books on sewing stretch, swimwear and lingerie to help me learn the sewing part. I have also done some short courses in stretch/swimwear. You could try searching pintrest or youtube for something like - making/sewing rhythmic gymnastics leotards/acro leotards - I bet you would find some interesting stuff there.

For lycra I find the best needles are the 75/11 stretch - not ballpoint, which skip stitches. The 75/11 stretch are designed to stop the elastine fibres from sticking to the needle and breaking, causing the skipped stitch. I also find that a walking foot is very helpful for getting an nice flat seam, failing that you can put tissue paper under and or above your work as you sew. Stretch fabrics behave very differently but are lovely to work with once you get used to them.

Sorry if I've just told you things you already know! Good luck and let us know how you get on.