The Sewing Place

Amelia Teadress Sleeve Alteration

b15erk

Amelia Teadress Sleeve Alteration
« on: May 22, 2018, 09:15:02 AM »
I traced this pattern off last night, and really don't like the sleeve.  It looks quite straight on the front of the envelope, but, the pattern piece is quite full.

So, I intend to alter it, but is it as simple as doing the flaring process in reverse, or is there another way to alter the sleeve? 

I'm going to do a toile, because I've found a few issues with the pattern, but this sleeve alteration is something I haven't done before.

Can anyone help please?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

SkoutSews

Re: Amelia Teadress Sleeve Alteration
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2018, 09:26:12 AM »
I'm interested in this too, as I often find that pattern sleeves are too full. My amateur hacking brings them in a bit, but it would be good to know what I should be doing!

b15erk

Re: Amelia Teadress Sleeve Alteration
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2018, 12:37:03 PM »
No answers so far, so I did some reverse engineering.  The only help I could find was telling me how to achieve a flared sleeve, so I thought that if I did the reverse, I would bring it back to the original shape.

I started by measuring my arm, to get an idea of how much fabric I needed to remove.  Then I began drawing straight lines down the sleeve, spaced about an 11/4" apart.  I then marked 1/2" at either side of the line at the sleeve hem edge, and cut up, bringing both sides to the centre line.  It was tedious, and looks very messy, but it appears to have worked.  The sleeve head remains the same width, but the excess fabric has been removed from the sleeve.

I'll use the pattern for my toile, tweak it where necessary and report back, but it does look OK, apart from needing to be trued up around the hemline a bit.

Now to lengthen the bodice....

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ploshkin

Re: Amelia Teadress Sleeve Alteration
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2018, 13:28:13 PM »
Do you have a suitable sleeve on another pattern? I often do mongrel sleeves.  I use the sleeve head off the pattern I'm making and add the lower half of a different one.  Or I might use the armhole and sleeve head from a different pattern.  I don't see ant point in drafting when it's already been done for me.
Life's too short for ironing.

b15erk

Re: Amelia Teadress Sleeve Alteration
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2018, 13:37:49 PM »
Plosh, I have done that in the past, and Peggy Sagers advocates a sleeve 'template', so that you can change sleeves around.  I think that would only work if you use one brand of pattern though.

I do use the template idea for summer tops though, so that I don't have a terribly low armhole showing my underwear!

Tbh, the sleeve I'm left with seems OK, but thinking about it, I could have put a pleat at the hem edge which would have taken up some of the extra fabric.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Amelia Teadress Sleeve Alteration
« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2018, 09:01:54 AM »
The sleeve alteration worked - a little too well really, but I've let it out a little, and will use it for the second sleeve on the toile.

I will take pics when I've done the second sleeve, it's just a matter of wearing ease really.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.