The Sewing Place

Mondrian dress project

Manuela

Mondrian dress project
« on: May 28, 2018, 10:51:14 AM »
I've been wanting to make a Mondrian dress for ages, but was never quite sure what fabric to use and where to get it in the required colours. The original was apparently made of wool jersey, something I just can't imagine wearing in hot and humid Hong Kong.
I came to the conclusion that cotton sateen would be my favourite fabric for it  :)

This is what I want, what I really really want (just with a slightly different neckline)

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... been searching how it might look at the back...

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Bought the fabric, now waiting for it to arrive  8)

UttaRetch

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2018, 13:01:03 PM »
I am sure yours will be an excellent rendition.  Fabrickated did a a version too and blogged about it here.

A hack



was rushed out following a Sewing bee challenge, but the discussion at the time was that it wasn't like the original.

I love this dress too, but have too many inconvenient lumps and bumps. 0_0

Manuela

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2018, 13:35:12 PM »
Thanks Utta, I know about Kate's (we met when we stayed in London for a week a few years back).
I'm going to adapt my shift dress pattern - making a muslin and then fiddling around with the colour blocking until I'm happy with it and using the muslin as the final pattern.

UttaRetch

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2018, 16:32:46 PM »
Saint Laurent did different versions of the Mondrian, but no pattern company seems to have recreated the above.  Simplicity did



an almost, but I have found nothing closer.

jen

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2018, 16:45:38 PM »
This’ll be super in a weighty cotton instead of wool. Looking forward to it.

Sandra

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2018, 16:54:11 PM »
This is going to be interesting, Manuela. I'm going to enjoy seeing this come together.

Simplicity also did pattern number 6384, issued in 1965...virtually identical to the one you've shown UttaRetch. This is a 'cheat' version with the coloured blocks simply applied to the surface of the dress, and black ribbon stitched over the top of it. It's no where near as complicated in the construction we were shown on GBSB.

I had an original copy of the Vogue pattern 1557 and sold it on Ebay last year( sold for about £60  :))....traced the pieces off first, just in case I'm ever tempted to try making one.

There's also a cute kids version from Simplicity, 6432, also issued in 1965.

Sandra.
xxx

UttaRetch

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2018, 20:14:58 PM »


I prefer 6400.

BrendaP

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2018, 22:20:18 PM »
6384 definitley has an angled bust dart, all the othres look as though what shaping there is is hidden in the seams and the jersey version would have got away with minimul shaping, relying on the stretch of the fabric.

The basic shift dress of the 1960s didn't have much shaping, usually just a horizontal bust dart.  I remember making a couple of those shifts by cutting round a RTW dress. 

To make a 'Mondrian' pattern of your own you'd need a basic bodice block extended down to knee level (make sure it gets wide enough at the hips) and then draw your own version of the stripes and rectangles.  Chop it up, add seam allowances and that's it!  If you can manage to get a stripe to coincide with the dart so much the better.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Manuela

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2018, 23:57:30 PM »
Being a D to DD cup, concealing the bust dart is not really an option, and the tailor in me refuses to put the amound anywhere into those panels above the bust, so the dress will have bust darts. Some waist definition/shaping can be done at the vertical seams as well as the side seams - I like the loose fit at the waist.

I like the gentle assymmetry of the version I posted and have the block pattern I want to use identified.
Now I need to get length and neckhole exactly the way I want, then I can play with the proportions .
To me it looks that the yellow panel at the bottom is exactly as wide as the yoke at the centre front - sans the black strips/panels.
The black bits are not the same width throughout the dress, again I like that, it adds interest while still looking simple, my guess at the moment is that the wider ones are 4cm and the narrower are 3m - need to play with that.

The original (top picture) looks like there is a small difference in length at the middle section - the top once looks slightly shorter than the bottom one (exactly the opposite from the bottom picture). I think I like the original more...

Here what I ordered yesterday - all cotton sateens

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I choose a slightly darker blue I like a lot

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« Last Edit: May 29, 2018, 04:00:11 AM by Manuela »

Manuela

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2018, 00:07:37 AM »
Looking at those pictures, the two sections in the middle look almost like they have the same length...

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So, I'll make what looks best on me. When I looks at these, the difference in width of the black sections looks more pronounced, here I'd guess 3cm for the narrow strips and 5cm for the wider ones - food for thought, a lot to play with  :D

Here the white base fabric, again a cotton sateen

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I'll line the whole dress with Bemberg.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2018, 04:01:16 AM by Manuela »

Iminei

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2018, 08:08:48 AM »
been searching how it might look at the back...

Now I know I know absolutely  nothing about garment making, but .... just an observation ...

If you look at the two pics at the very start of this thread ... the reverse view cannot be the reverse of the front view

If you look at the front view pic you can see the colour change at the shoulder seam .....

Red on the righthand side of back and white on the lefthand side of the back

which is most certainly not what is shown in the rear view pic.

The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

BrendaP

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2018, 08:36:04 AM »
been searching how it might look at the back...
Red on the righthand side of back and white on the lefthand side of the back

which is most certainly not what is shown in the rear view pic.

That's what I was just about to write! 

Play around with all the colour placements - take @Bodgeitandscarper 's advice to make a few quick sketches and try colouring in the various sections differently to get what you like.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

UttaRetch

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2018, 08:41:19 AM »
@Iminei: I don't think the back is meant to be a reverse of the front. If you look at this



you will see that the back of the blue front panel is white BUT I think that blue was moved to the opposite shoulder on the back.

Iminei

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2018, 09:13:44 AM »
I understand that UR; i was pointing out that the two pictures were not of the same dress ... tho I suppose the giveaway could be the model herself, but the dress might have been made from the same pattern I s'pose
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

Manuela

Re: Mondrian dress project
« Reply #14 on: May 29, 2018, 09:32:26 AM »
@Iminei I am aware that the pictures or not of the same dress. My main convern was whether the back is plain or has coloured panels as well.
Once I've fitted the muslin, I'll first work on the front and then tackle the back.

I like how this looks at the back....

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« Last Edit: May 29, 2018, 21:58:00 PM by Manuela »