The Sewing Place

Pattern adjustment I'm not sure how to make

Ellabella

Pattern adjustment I'm not sure how to make
« on: March 20, 2017, 14:33:05 PM »
After UttaRech dangled the Deer & Doe Luzerne trench coat in front of me I succumbed and bought the pattern.
Luzerne trench coat

My measurements are spot on for the bust and hips but need to go up a size for the waist, I am that much coverted rectangle shape.

I printed out the PDF with both sizes and intended to redraw the side seams to include the extra in the waist area.

The pattern has princess seams, a first for me.  Will this affect my redrafting or can I get away with just altering the side seams?

Morgan

Re: Pattern adjustment I'm not sure how to make
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2017, 00:28:11 AM »
Princess seams give you more flexibility for adding (or taking away) where it's actually needed  for your shape rather than just at the side seams. 
Some people may have a larger waist but carry more at the front.  Others may carry it evenly all the way around. 


Try this - measure yourself around the waist and check what your back waist measurement is and also your front waist measurement.  As it's a coat add some ease of about 5cm to each of these front and back waist measurements.


Mark the seam lines on the pattern.  At the waist level, measure the pattern between the seam lines (do not include the seam allowances).  Compare the measurements for the back with your back waist measurements and the same for the front. 
You may need to add more to the front than to the back.
You may decide to share the amount that you want to add at the waist level between the princess seams and the side seams.


I hope this makes sense.





Ellabella

Re: Pattern adjustment I'm not sure how to make
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2017, 09:57:02 AM »
Thanks Morgan, that makes a lot of sense. I'll go and play around with things. :*