sewing lace fabric

[mammafairy]

Hi,
I am making Vintage Vogue pattern https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v2903#.WyK-vkgvyUk.

This is in a lace fabric, underlined with satin, but the sleeves are just the lace fabric.
Most of it has been overlocked before I started, so, my issue is, what about those lace sleeves? Do I overlock the sleeve seam? Or is there a better way to finish it? , and also the sleeve hem? I intend to put the scallop edge from the lace on for show, but do I overlock, zigzag or ignore the edge finish here?

And what about the armhole?
Do I bind it, or overlock it?? It is such a special dress and not for me, either, so I feel I want to get it right!

Any thoughts please!

[Manuela]

It depends on the type of lace your using....

When using the scallop edge as the sleeve hem woth a lightweight lace I'd do the sleeve seam as a French seam and finish the armhole after the sleeve is sewn in with bias binding.
Using a beefier lace, such as guipure lace, I'd do both with Hong Kong finishing.

[BrendaP]

Yes, it very much depends on the lace how the best way to finish seams and edges.  Can you post a good close up image of the lace fabric?

[mammafairy]

Thanks @Manuela . I like the look of that Homg Komg finish, not sure it is suuitable though.
I was thinking about the French seam, too...

@BrendaP  here are some images

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mammafairy/41908502195/in/dateposted/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mammafairy/41908501385/in/photostream/

These show the lace, on it's satin underlining.

[BrendaP]

It looks to be a fairly sturdy lace - your photo really shows off the gimp outline.

I made a posh lace dress last year (for my babies' 40th birthday party, they were 41 yesterday!).
https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,818.0.html

I underlined it with organza, as the pattern suggested, but that was a bit of a problem as although I carefully basted both layers together the lace fabric dropped a little but the organza didn't.  Satin is likely to have the same sort of movement as the lace so less likely to be a problem for you, but even so if it's underlined rather than lined I suggest you let it hang for a day before finishing the hem.

I did all my seams with the overlocker, 4 threads.  Your lace looks to be a similar sort of weight.

[Manuela]

As Brenda said, when you underline the lace, overlocking the seams would be perfectly fine.
My recommendation was for lace as it is, not underlined 

[mammafairy]

So pleased with the input, @Manuela and @BrendaP . This is most helpful.
Yes, the bulk of the dress is underlined, just the sleeves to be left as open lace, so it was the finish on them I needed help with.
As for the hanging before hemming- daft pattern has shoulders so wide it won't stay on a hanger!
I am adding long loops at the armhole to go round the crook of the hanger so once they are on, then I can hang it.
Are these designers not in the same world? make a dress you cannot hang up?

I am going to have a play with that Hong Kong finish, see what I have in stash that looks suitable. I suspect I will end up with the good old French seam for the long sleeve seam, but I may venture into the HK for the armhole... watch this space!

[Catllar]

Have a look at this:  https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/04/sheer-seams-and-edges  Kenneth King on how to seam sheers.

[mammafairy]

@Catllar that is amazing! Not quite what I need for the lace, but well worth bearing in mind for future projects! Those sheers are the dickens to sew at times.

[mammafairy]

The finished dress is here, if anyone is interested to see!
https://mammafairysews.blogspot.com/2018/07/wedding-fun.html

Thank you for help and advice everyone!

[fajita]

Oh my word, that grey lace dress is stunning. And the bridesmaid dress, gorgeous. What a talent you have, @mammafairy

[Sandra]

Oh, they're lovely @mammafairy   

Beautiful work.

Sandra.
xxx

[BrendaP]

Two really superb dresses.  Well done.    

[Surest1tch]

Fantastic, well done

[Manuela]

@mammafairy that lace dress is utterly fantabulous, and the little bridesmaid dress... gosh it is cute.