The Sewing Place

Fabric Confusion

Vezelay

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #15 on: June 20, 2018, 10:30:40 AM »
The Stitch Sisters have made a 6 part Youtube video guide to fabrics that you might find useful. I know I did. This is Part 1

Samantha

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #16 on: June 20, 2018, 10:35:54 AM »
Lolli, you may be surprised!  I never knowingly use the recommended fabrics for projects.  As long as they have the required drape, nap etc, I use what I like.  Sometimes it doesn't work, but I put it down to experience.  ;)

@b15erk Me too! I don't always pay attention as to whether it requires a stretch or non stretch fabric either  :D

Lolli

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2018, 11:10:36 AM »
Lolli, you may be surprised!  I never knowingly use the recommended fabrics for projects.  As long as they have the required drape, nap etc, I use what I like.  Sometimes it doesn't work, but I put it down to experience.  ;)

Have a look at your RTW clothes to get an idea of fabric content and weight, the information should be on the inside lable.

Jessie

That fills me with a little more confidence in giving it a go, thanks @b15erk. Also looking at clothing labels, a good tip!

I wouldn't recommend doing the burn test in the shop. ;)

Lol lol lol  0_0

Get an education pack.  This shows weaves (types) of fabric and what they are made of (fiber).  Fabric Mart has them, but I'm sure they can be found in the UK.  If not, I can find my test from college and message it to you, so you have an idea of what to look for at least.

I'll have a look for one of those and if I can't find one I'll message you. Thank you for the offer, very kind.

The Stitch Sisters have made a 6 part Youtube video guide to fabrics that you might find useful. I know I did. This is Part 1

Excellent, thank you!

BrendaP

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2018, 11:45:20 AM »
When I was learning to sew it was a case of buying a pattern and then wandering around the fabric shops, several of them on one town, and feeling the fabric, seeing how it draped , how much it screwed up, what it looked like held up, etc and then choosing something suitable for the pattern.

Now alas, it's a case of buying fabric online, and then seeing what it's like and choose a pattern suitable.

I don't worry overmuch about the fibre content, other than knowing that natural fibres are more comfortable to wear in warm weather.  Yes, I do pay some attention to the pattern envelope about how much stretch the fabric needs; it can be more stretchy, but not less.  And yes, the stretchiest direction should go around the body.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Tamnymore

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #19 on: June 20, 2018, 13:33:38 PM »
You can get away with a non-stretch fabric for a pattern that says it is for stretch fabrics if there is enough ease -not just round the body but sleeves and legs (in trousers) should be checked too. My favourite trouser pattern is for stretch fabrics but I regularly make it up in plain woven fabrics with no stretch. My favourite dress pattern (that Mizono one where the model is doing a sort of Sumo pose on the Vogue website) asks for a stretch fabric for the bodice so I just go up a size on the bodice when I use a non-stretch fabric on the bodice.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Lolli

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #20 on: June 20, 2018, 15:59:44 PM »
Brilliant thank you everyone, you've put my mind at rest. I'm going to give it a go, I've nowt to lose because even if it doesn't work out at least I've had a trial practice  ;)

Lolli

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #21 on: June 20, 2018, 18:52:58 PM »
A woven fabric is made on a loom with a warp thread (along the length of the fabric) and a weft thread over and under it from side to side.It is usually non stretch, but may be made with stretchy thread which will give the finished fabric stretch without being a knit.

@Greybird I have just discovered that this is exactly what I have, a woven which has been made with stretchy thread. I'm learning!  0_0

BrendaP

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #22 on: June 20, 2018, 19:20:08 PM »
When you have finished making the dress make sure you keep a sample of the fabric, including a bit of the selvedge, and use it to start your scrapbook/notebook.  :snip:
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Lolli

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #23 on: June 20, 2018, 19:50:30 PM »
That's a good idea @BrendaP, I shall do that. It's a very good place to start  ;)

Lolli

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #24 on: June 21, 2018, 13:19:30 PM »
Is a stretch needle needed for fabrics with any amount of stretch and do I need to use a narrow zigzag instead of straight stitch? It is pretty stretchy crossways.

Greybird

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #25 on: June 21, 2018, 16:00:08 PM »
I don't think you need a stretch needle. These are often recommended for knit fabrics as they have a ballpoint which slides between the knitted stitches rather than cutting through them which can result in holes. There are newer types of needle (which I'm afraid I haven't caught up with yet - I'm sure someone else will explain them!) which might be better.

As far as the choice between straight stitching and zigzag goes, I'd try it on scrap pieces first.

DementedFairy

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #26 on: June 21, 2018, 16:54:08 PM »
Microtex does well for most sewing
C'est moi!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #27 on: June 21, 2018, 21:27:41 PM »
Great response @BrendaP with lots of info.  I was going to suggest ordering samples and making a reference file.  A book is very  useful for techniques concerning each fabric but you actually need the fabric to see and feel. 
I always find it strange when people muddle fibres and fabrics.   I'm often asked for silk when people mean satin. 

Holly Berry

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #28 on: June 22, 2018, 09:21:47 AM »
I use microtex needles for most fabrics now.

The other thing I’ve found confusing is interfacing. Now I use fusible knit for everything. If using on woven that doesn’t stretch the interfacing doesn’t stretch.

Basically you can make any pattern out of any fabric. The thing to bear in mind though is that if you use fabric that the pattern wasn’t designed, for the look and drape might not be right. Also knit patterns you will have to adjust the ease. The fabric suggestions are just that, suggestions.

If there’s a fabric you particularly like but are worried ask for a sample if buying on line. A problem I found buying in line is quite often the weight or constituent fibres aren’t listed.

Keeping a scrap book is an excellent idea, but I’m not that organised  0_0
Procrastination get behind me

Marniesews

Re: Fabric Confusion
« Reply #29 on: June 22, 2018, 14:41:15 PM »
Skipped stitches are a regular problem with knits & ballpoints don't help with that but both stretch & superstretch (HAx1SP) needles have differently designed scarfs & shanks in addition to their ballpoint tip that resolves that.

Your fabric's a woven with a little but not a lot of stretch I think you said, so there's far less of an issue with popping stitches. Straight stitch should be fine (you can always put just a little resistance on the fabric - very little - as it goes through to add a little extra tolerance in the stitching if necessary). Universals will probably be fine or try the microtex if not.
Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.