Constructing A Garment

[Lolli]

So in this case where it's a frayer, would I OL around each pattern piece (just shaving off the edge) before I start to construct?
If that's the case, what do I do about the notches as I will no longer be able to see them?
I'm presuming, as I would have pre OL the edges, I would just press the seams open once they've been sewn together?

Sorry about the questions, it's a pain being a novice 

[DementedFairy]

So in this case where it's a frayer, would I OL around each pattern piece (just shaving off the edge) before I start to construct?
If that's the case, what do I do about the notches as I will no longer be able to see them?
I'm presuming, as I would have pre OL the edges, I would just press the seams open once they've been sewn together?

Sorry about the questions, it's a pain being a novice 

I know a lot of people are very keen on this business of overlocking everything before assembly, but honestly, I never do unless the fabric is seriously at risk of disintegration...and rarely even then.  Just go for it, and zig zag your raw edges IF they need it.  Not all do.  All I had was zigzag for about 35 years of sewing, it's fine!  And if you're lining it, even less cause to faff about.
Like I said, I use my overlocker primarily for knits...

[Tamnymore]

If I'm going to overlock pattern pieces, I mark the notches with tailor tacks or, preferably, with a frixion pen so the marks just disappear when you iron over them. Of course, you can only use those pens on fabrics where the marks wil show up but they are extremely useful.

[Lolli]

I've got an air erasable pen which I always use anyway (if suitable for the fabric) so I'll use that. I've put a tester of the pen on the fabric, just leaving it a while to see how that goes before I start anything.

I've had a look at some of my RTW clothes and can see the difference between different options. Some seams are just overlocked, some are sewn first then overlocked together, some sewn first then overlocked separately. I can see now there's no real rule here and to just go for it in whichever way I find easiest.

Thanks for the advice guys 

[HenriettaMaria]

If you are a complete novice I would steer clear of the OL.  I have one and I like it but it is tricky because:

• You will lose your notches, as you have already worked out
• You will lose seam allowance, and that's a bad thing if you then find you have to make adjustments
• If you're not careful you can cut into the fabric if it bunches up

 
I would look at other methods of neatening seams, eg, French seam; mock French seam; flat fell seam; binding the seams; zigzagging the seams (this is less tidy on straight seams but it's useful for armholes where other methods are fiddly).  They are slower methods but the risks to someone finding their feet are fewer. 

TBH, I started making my own clothes circa 1979 and only got an O/L twenty years later - the advantage of an O/L to me was mainly in sewing knits, bias cuts or finishing long straight edges on curtains, although the rolled seam function has proven a godsend on several occasions too.

[Lolli]

Hmm, valid points there @HenriettaMaria, it would be a risk....it's just I have a brand new sparkly one and I'm very keen to use it lol.
I do have a habit of throwing myself in at the deep end, I just feel I'm never going to get the hang of using it if I don't try 'just in case it goes wrong' 

[DementedFairy]

While a big fan of 'the deep end' overlockers are a tool that's best suited to knits, honest.  Match the tool to the job.
 Otherwise, you might as well buy a shiny new hammer and use it to tighten screws...
Even when sewing knits, there are some bits that need top be done on the sewing machine.  Horses for courses.  All the warnings are very valid.  I adore my overlocker, but wouldn't try to use it to bake a cake...

[Greybird]

I have used my overlocker on knits to make the seam and neaten in one go, but unless the fabric is very stretchy I prefer to do the seams on the sewing machine and neaten the seam allowances afterwards. This is for the simple reason that I like the finish I get pressing the seams open. I find you don't quite get the same effect otherwise.

[crafter]

I would rarely use an overlocker on the bodice of a dress.  I find overlocking unsewn seams takes out any notches and can also distort the seam allowance making it more difficult to seam accurately.  I would line the bodice and leave the seams unfinished.  The skirt, however, would be joined with the overlocker, as would be the lining.  If there is no waist or under bust seam, I would cut into the seam so the bodice part is pressed open but the skirt is pressed to the side, making it much neater if it should show (wind blowing skirt up, crossing legs, etc, etc.).  Also easier to hem if doing a very small hem.

IMHO

[Tamnymore]

I had thirty years of sewing without owning an overlocker so I must have managed somehow. With a bit of practice pattern pieces can be overlocked losing only a very minimal amount of the seam edge though.

[elephun]

The final look is a big motivating factor for me. I like to save time, too. Generally, I prefer the look of a machine sewn hem that is pressed open compared to the way a hem that is simply serged presses. I sometimes make samples to see if I can get away with serging alone.

[UttaRetch]

@Lolli: if you are determined to try your overlocker DON'T do it before constructing the garment.  An alternative to using a dedicated overlocker is the 'overcast' foot that you may already have for your sewing machine.  I have a little Brother which has an overcast foot



which gives a pretty good finish without shaving off seam allowances or accidently cutting through fabric.

[Ploshkin]

TBH Lolli, the fabric you pictured doesn't look as if it frays particularly badly.  I have never, in over 50 years, finished the edges of a piece before construction.  I would think it risks distorting the garment pieces, more so if your fabric is a bit tricky.
If I were you I would  just get on and cut out the pattern pieces.  Leave the pattern attached to the fabric until you are ready to use that piece and don't over handle until seamed.  Don't forget to stay stitch curves eg neckline to stop them stretching out of shape.

[BrendaP]

I prefer the look of a machine sewn hem that is pressed open compared to the way a hem that is simply serged presses.

If you mean closely spaced overlocking as the hem - which a lot of cheap RTW has, I agree it's just timesaving and a properly turned hem nearly always looks better, very fine chiffon or voile is about the only exception.

It depends on the fabric and the shape of the hem how I finish it.  Stretchy fabrics that have been sewn with the overlocker are usually hemmed with the coverstitcher (or a twin needle in the regular machine).  Otherwise I frequently overlock the edge and then turn just once and blind hem into the overlocking, or sometimes I hem by hand.

[Lolli]

Thanks everyone for your imput, much appreciated. I'll refrain from using the OL for this dress and use my SM instead. I have previously made a dress with similar construction before and used the zigzag for neatening seams.
I'll be making another leotard based costume for my DD soon so I'll save the OL for that!