The Sewing Place

Constructing A Garment

mammafairy

Re: Constructing A Garment
« Reply #30 on: June 21, 2018, 22:38:54 PM »
as the reverse of the fabric is white I would use a chalk pencil in blue, or, actually , 'cos I am too lazy to dig it out, probably a standard graphite pencil, and make marks in the right place, just on the seam allowances, so I know where to match stuff.

Lolli

Re: Constructing A Garment
« Reply #31 on: June 26, 2018, 17:32:09 PM »
So the dress is finished and it didn't work out so well. Good job I listened to you all and didn't use the overlocker because I'm thinking I could use it as a toile and take it apart? To be fair it's gone together o.k (it does look like a dress!) but the fabric was not fit for the job, too heavy as I suspected before I started.
Also, I tried to be clever and alter the pattern pieces to fit my DD'S sizes on the chart. According to said chart she's different sizes in different areas so I looked in my Alison Smith book and saw tips on how to adjust multisize patterns. Over the hips is fine but it's too big everywhere else. So my question is, could I unpick the side seams, pin (then sew) to fit, take it all apart and trace those new lines? Or should I start again?

Also the neckline is curling out but I think that might be down to the fabric being stretchy. I used the same fabric for the neck binding. I did cut it on the bias as instructed, but maybe the stretch in the fabric has made it do that?
« Last Edit: June 26, 2018, 17:37:56 PM by Lolli »

DementedFairy

Re: Constructing A Garment
« Reply #32 on: June 26, 2018, 19:49:59 PM »
Well done for persevering.  You may be able to use it as a toile for cutting the next version, but you'd need to do all fitting first.  SOunds like you should have chosen the dress size going on high bust- this generally gives the closest fit to the body, and it's much easier to add in an FBA or grade out for larger waist or hips without fuss.
C'est moi!

Lolli

Re: Constructing A Garment
« Reply #33 on: June 27, 2018, 19:18:00 PM »
Thanks @DementedFairy. I'll have a faff and see what I can do with it. There are no high bust measurements on the back of the pattern, is that what you mean?

DementedFairy

Re: Constructing A Garment
« Reply #34 on: June 27, 2018, 19:25:22 PM »
Measure your high bust [say it's 40" and actual bust 44", like me] and choose pattern size as if that's your bust [say size 16 for the sake of argument]
Check the pattern FINISHED measurement [printed on tissue in big 4 patterns, others you might have to measure it yourself]
Assuming there isn't a ton of ease in the pattern [eg if finished measurement is 45" I wouldn't do the FBA at all] let's say finished measurement is 41".  I'd want to add in 3 or more inches to get a nice fit plus some ease [unless it's very stretchy]
On my pattern piece, I would do an FBA to add in HALF of the required 3"
C'est moi!

Lolli

Re: Constructing A Garment
« Reply #35 on: June 27, 2018, 23:44:43 PM »
Brilliant, thank you!