The Sewing Place

Shirt collar questions

b15erk

Shirt collar questions
« on: June 29, 2018, 09:22:55 AM »
I've been sewing the toile for Theo's Christening shirt, and I've got a few niggles with the all in one shirt collar and stand.  I'd like your opinions please girls, and any advice will be welcome.

The problem I'm having with the all in one, is getting a good curve on the stand.  It looks good until I turn it right way out, and then there is little evidence of a curve, and the bulk means that it's going to be hard to topstitch and put the buttonhole on there.

Because of the construction method, it's really difficult to turn it back to address trimming and turning problems, and I was wondering if a separate stand and collar would be a better option?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

SkoutSews

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2018, 10:03:55 AM »
If you make a 'proper' two-piece collar, you then have another seam which will add more bulk and stitching right next to the baby's neck.  The all-in-one collar will be softer and easier for the little one.  But you will lose shaping......

If you give it a good bullying with the iron, would that help?  Also it might look fine once it's on? 

BrendaP

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2018, 10:14:05 AM »
I agree with SS, you need to keep it as unbulky and soft as you can for a little neck.   I'm sure Theo won't mind if the curve is not perfect, but he might object if it is uncomfortable. 

The photos in the other thread look great.  sewing a collar as small as that can't have been easy.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

b15erk

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2018, 10:27:02 AM »
Oh girls, thank you!!  I was near to tears with this one.  I'd be happy if it were just a normal shirt, but it is for his Christening/Birthday, and so it needs to be as good as I can get it.

I've read much criticism about the all in one, and wondered if it was a cop out.  I feel quite reassured now!

Jessie  :)
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2018, 10:29:12 AM »
SS, there isn't room to get the iron in to press it out, I've had to make do with pushing the curve from the inside, with a letter opener, and pressing hard.

Fingers crossed it will look better after topstitching.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Greybird

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2018, 10:40:46 AM »
Jessie I have a vague recollection of seeing something about this (Anne Ladbury on TV maybe?) many years ago. I think the over collar was cut slightly bigger than the under collar, allowing the underside to pull it into a curve. I don't think I dreamt it!

Morgan

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2018, 11:52:50 AM »
Four tricks/tips -

- use a 'former' to control the stitching around the shape of the curve. ie. cut a template, (temporarily) stick it to the fabric and stitch exactly on the stitching line.  If necessary, crank the machine by hand to ensure precision

and

- use a very short stitch length to stitch any section that requires trimming and/or clipping close to the stitching line.  How short depends on the size of needle you're using, the thickness of the thread and the closeness of the weave of the fabric. A 1mm stitch length is a good place to start.
(Bear in mind that a size 90 needle needs a stitch length of 0.9 or more, or it's possible that the needle point will slip into the previously made hold and that can muck up the stitch formation.)
If you're using a thin thread rather than a sew-all, for example something like the thickness of  a polyester 40s machine embroidery thread, it's worth stitching around the curve and notch twice, once on the line and the second pass in the seam allowance but snugged up to the first line of stitching.  It's the same principle as the hairline seam technique.  Also, tiny stitch lengths also means you don't add bulk with reversing or locking stitches at the start and end.

and

- grade and trim the seam allowance as close as possible to the stitching - eg. in the region of 1.5 and 2mm. A useful tip is to angle the scissors as you trim the seam allowance away in this section.  When you trim this close to a seam, often you don't need to clip/notch around the curve.

and

- take care to be gentle when turning to the right side and use the former (aka template) to hold the shape of the curve for pressing.  It helps a lot with achieving symmetry.


For neckstands and other curved shapes (eg. curved pockets) I often make formers from thin vinyl placemats (no seam allowance) which also makes them very useful as pressing aids.

Some general links -
http://curvysewingcollective.com/ten-tricks-for-sewing-better-collars/
https://mavenpatterns.co.uk/how-to-make-patch-pockets-perfectly-every-time/








SkoutSews

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2018, 12:46:38 PM »
SS, there isn't room to get the iron in to press it out, I've had to make do with pushing the curve from the inside, with a letter opener, and pressing hard.

Fingers crossed it will look better after topstitching.

Jessie

It's so little and cute! Since my first reply I've seen the photos on the other thread and it's gorgeous. You're taking so much care, a five-star granny indeed.

Great expert advice @Morgan, as always. I should be printing off all your tips and keeping them for reference.

BrendaP

Re: Shirt collar questions
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2018, 20:43:58 PM »
SS, there isn't room to get the iron in to press it out, I've had to make do with pushing the curve from the inside, with a letter opener, and pressing hard.


I have a little travel iron, inherited from MIL which is handy for small fiddly things. 

You can also get mini irons like these for craftwork.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.