The Sewing Place

Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed

datcat23

Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« on: December 21, 2018, 08:52:42 AM »
I am finally going to attempt to make this silk tunic (made from a sari).  I am absolutely terrified, as you can expect, and I of course have left it way too late.  The fabric is super soft, and stupidly mobile. 

I am considering making this tunic double layered, as its very see through fabric, and I don't have any lining fabric.  I am thinking about cutting two each of the front and back, using the inner layer in place of the facing on the neckline, but cutting the under layer longer, to feature the very wide border at the end of the sari. 

So, I am looking for hints on how to deal with this fabric.  What needles to use, whether I need to alter tension, would the walking foot help.  I am hoping to use the end borders and selvedges as hemlines, to avoid having to hem this super soft fabric.  But still, I don't want to pull or snag the fabric.

So hit me with your tips.   
The barefoot seamstress:  smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
2024:  Mending:  2  | Fabric used:  2.5m | Items made:  1  |  Quilts:      |  Fabric destashed:  25m

BrendaP

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2018, 09:18:28 AM »
Use a fine needle (75/11) and a fine thread.  If you use silk thread make sure it's spun silk, not reeled (filament), but polyester will be OK.  If you can find something a bit thinner than Guetermann SewAll use that.

SewAll is the same as Guetermann Mara 100.  Use Mara 120 if you can find it.

As always use a scrap of the fabric to test the machine settings for tension and stitch length.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Radiofan

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2018, 09:32:41 AM »
From the sewing manuals I have read, use a walking foot to stop it slipping between layers and for something so thin, you will probably need a stabilizer of some sort. I'm guessing an iron-on tearaway stabilizer. Some people use tissue paper on both sides.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2018, 09:46:06 AM by Radiofan »
Singer 538, there are many like it, but this one is mine.

toileandtrouble

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2018, 09:37:27 AM »
If you have a straight stitch plate I would use that, to stop the fine fabric being dragged down the hole.  Alternatively, cover  a wider needle hole with sellotape to give the same effect.  If you use  a straight stitch, it will only make one hole in the sellotape.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Missie

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2018, 10:01:29 AM »
Always pin the the seam allowances as pin marks will show and when pinning for sewing, pin at right angles to the direction of stitching.

I use tissue paper to sew through and rather than finishing seams with overstitching, I start off on the smallest stitch for about 1cm and then revert to my normal sewing stitch.  This reduces bulk.

Don't press with steam as the steam may mark the fabric and use a pressing cloth.

arrow

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2018, 17:47:25 PM »
It's all mentioned mostly. Before I bought my 201, an old 99 turned out to stitch silk chiffon flawlessly compared to a couple of much fancier models. The only thing I did was lessen the presser foot tension a bit on the 99 and it was very easy to work on it. If one of your machines misbehave, try another, even if you are on your "best" machine.

...remember to iron the fabric...

Lachica

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2018, 22:14:04 PM »
I've used spray starch to stabilise fine silk, especially stitching on the bias. The silk must be washable though if you use starch. Otherwise, as other said already.
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

datcat23

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2018, 06:19:19 AM »
Well I was planning to finish up on my sewing after the nightgown, but then today I decided I would get myself organised, and make the tunic that I cut out last week.  I have been procrastinating with this, rightly so, as the fabric was so soft it was like sewing fairy floss.  This is loosely based on the Daisy Tunic from StyleArc, but I also used features from other patterns as well.  The tunic is actually double layer, with the under layer being longer, with the sleeves being a single layer.  I used the selvedge for the hems to avoid having to hem such a soft fabric.  Wearing it, feels like you are wearing nothing. 

Thank you to everyone for your hints.  I used a fine needle, and the walking foot  I also used bias tape on the neckline edge, and the shoulder seams, to make it easier to handle those seams. 

sari dress by Dani, on Flickr
The barefoot seamstress:  smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
2024:  Mending:  2  | Fabric used:  2.5m | Items made:  1  |  Quilts:      |  Fabric destashed:  25m

Barcoded

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2018, 07:29:29 AM »
Thanks for posting your finished work. The colour is a great choice!
I think I have joined the 201 club

Missie

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2018, 08:57:13 AM »
That is lovely DC.

Lachica

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #10 on: December 24, 2018, 09:29:44 AM »
That's lovely, that colour suits you.
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

SkoutSews

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2018, 14:15:36 PM »
Lovely tunic, looks perfect for the Australian summer.

Nevis5

Re: Sewing silk ..... tips and tricks needed
« Reply #12 on: December 24, 2018, 15:11:46 PM »
Ooh, I like the double layer and the gorgeous colour, @datcat23 !  It'll be fab in the heat! x