Flower Girl dress

[DementedFairy]

This dress, for example, has an off-centre CB seam (ugh but fine) but the seam is properly sewn below the button band rather than top-stitched. How is that achieved I wonder?

Looks to me like you lose the seam below the opening in some folds or a pleat [like on the little white one]

Here's a suggestion, and don't sweat the measurements, just do it by eye, it's a seam maybe half a dozen inches long FFS

Bind the raw edges of the backs, neck to hem.  Sew a fairly narrow seam from hem to where you want you opening [2-3" below the neck should be ample].  Make you fold for your button band [now neatened] and just extend the pleat beyond the seam stitching.  All should be neat, and not bulky.  Actual seam hidden in the pleat, and it already looks pleated at the back

Just a suggestion

[Francesca]

Thanks, I will see if my brain can figure that out tomorrow! Right now it's too fuzzy.

[Francesca]

Designer got back to me 'there are markings for the overlap'. There aren't. 'OK just overlap so it's the same size as the front'. Great. Very professional.

I've sewn it up as instructed and have realised that it's going to add even more issue because I want to fully line the dress, not just line it on the top. On this version the lining is just on the top and is loose at the waist. The back is stitched up to 2cm below the ending edge of the lining so the lining isn't concerned. But that's obviously going to be an issue for me.

I think I need to buy a pattern which is similar but fully lined and with a placket in the back so I can work out how to do this properly, but retain the style. Unless I can find a tutorial for this. I'm still totally lost as to what is the best solution here.

I'm thinking, with all things considered, the easiest option is going to be to go for DF's suggestion of just sewing it up like normal at the back and then having a keyhole. Except because I need the keyhole to be longer, I'm thinking instead of just one loop and button at the top, several down to the waist. So like 5 or 6 little buttons with loops. I can do them fabric covered and use thin ribbon to save myself making the loops. Thoughts? Also I was thinking of doing some sort of facing on the inside so that skin doesn't show through where the two edges meet.

[Francesca]

Just tried to finish up putting in some poppers on the toile so that it could actually be worn. Of course forgetting how absolutely impossible poppers are. They drive me mad. So hard to install, by the time you've hammered enough they've gone all wonky and then they seem to magically fall apart anyway. God I hate this project and I've barely even begun.

[DementedFairy]

Seriously, small child + lots of teeny buttons- nope.  A couple of big ones if you must and don not give one fig about skin.  The poor child will not want to roast or be pinned down while mum fiddles with teensy buttons  lol

Why line at all?  Single layer, bound edges, less fuss.  Underline/flatline if you really must.  Honest, teeny clothes are not worth trying to make them couture UNLESS it's a christening gown which will be passed down.  All else is for your benefit, no one else's

[Francesca]

Maybe this will be passed down... I don't think people get christened as much any more. But I do still have some lovely dresses my Mum made me and hopefully one day if I have a daughter she can wear them too!

I was thinking 5 or so buttons. Not too tiny, maybe 1cm.

[Francesca]

The results of the toile are in. It seems plenty roomy enough according to the mother and she thinks based on how she is growing that it should be fine. Bit gappy at the neck edge and around the sides so I think I am going to go for it. It's based on a 12-18 month size and she'll be 13 months so seems about right.

Still trying to figure out exactly how to get this back working. I am possibly going to have to do another quick dry run of the basic shape (no sleeves or collar) just to figure out how to get my lining and everything sewn together as I want. I'm used to lining things with an exact copy of the outer and stitching them in at the waist seam, but this is one piece all the way to the bottom. I'm struggling to get my head around how to make the keyhole back but also be fully lined (the thing needs to be turned in through the top of the shoulders in order to fully line the bodice with the cap sleeves sandwiched inside). But I can't figure out how it'll all go together because in my head I'll want to sew the centre back seam of the lining/outer and then turn them right sides out and I can't do that if the pieces have already been turned. Gah, my brain. So I will have to test.

[Iminei]

Are you going to embroider the hem ?

[Francesca]

Not of the velvet but I think I am going to use one of the flower stitches and do a run around the inner skirt, along with some text

[Iminei]

The baby is going to wear velvet ????????

Oh dear ... thats bad news!

[Francesca]

Yes I'm sure it'll be a bit messy by the end of the day, but oh well. I'm sure little Victorian children wore velvet  As long as it stays nice enough for the majority of the photos it'll be fine!

[Iminei]

thats true Fran. just thinking of all your work combined with jelly and ice cream

[Francesca]

Started on the knickers last night. The fabric frays like absolutely CRAZY. I've overlocked all the innards but I'm still nervous. Aim is to just not handle them too much before the big day.

I also made a mistake and missed an entire panel. It's supposed to have three ruffles and the back is created from 4 panels. I've only put in three. Luckily I have fabric to spare so I'm able to build in that extra layer (no way I'm unpicking fraying overlocked seams).

Getting there though, even if my gathers aren't perfect (too hard to make perfect as the fraying starts to fray down into the first row of gathering stitches by the time I'm done gathering it).

I've spent all of last night gently snipping loose threads that present themselves in the seams or tugging them out if they come easily - just hope doing that hasn't affected the fabric too much underneath the O/L seams. Put my mind at rest? An overlocked seam should be strong?

[Bodgeitandscarper]

That does look a nightmare to sew.  I do love frilly knickers on a baby, my daughter always wore them 

[Francesca]

Just gone out and bought a big (not as big as I wanted) box from Paperchase along with tissue paper and card to match, plus nice paper to cover the box (thank god for my friend's large corporate discount). So I'll have something to present all this in. Not sewing related but still exciting! Just hoping all the bits fit.