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Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb

fajita

Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« on: August 04, 2018, 09:44:08 AM »
In a new venture for me I'm going to attempt a mans shirt for a friend.
I've fallen at the first hurdle because I'm not sure what size to cut.

The person in question measures:

Chest 44" (pattern size 44)
Waist 46" (pattern size 50)
Hip 47" (pattern size 46)
Neckband 16" (pattern size 42)

Would you say the chest size to start and alter from there?

Thanks.

I'm going to go off and start making the pocket as that doesn't change in size and I'm raring to go

BrendaP

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2018, 10:09:13 AM »
If it's a shirt to be worn with a tie the collar size matters, otherwise yes, start with the chest size and make sure that it tapers outwards enough (or has a big enough pleat below the back yoke) to accommodate the bigger waist and hip.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

fajita

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2018, 10:31:26 AM »
Thankyou, Brenda. Much appreciated.
It won't be too formal, just a pub shirt. One step above a t.shirt.

 :flower: :flower:

BrendaP

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2018, 23:31:29 PM »
Another thought on this - following on from @Sandra 's excellent tutorial about shortening sleeves.
Do make sure you measure the length of the sleeve before cutting and sewing.  It is so much easier to make adjustments at the beginning.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

fajita

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2018, 08:45:30 AM »
Thanks.

It's coming on well.

 I made two muslins (get me!), adjusted for girth.
Just got cuffs, collar and button bands to do.

Plackets were tricky to understand from instructions, but easier once I looked at a real shirt.

And that shirt rolls up into the yoke and gets pulled out of an armhole. That was fun!

I've got some more material to make another should this one come up to scratch.

Morgan

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2018, 10:21:07 AM »
I love making shirts.

Next time its worth sorting out your own assembly process.

Usually sorting the front edges/bands/plackets and buttonholes are the first thing that I do.  (if something doesn't go right it's simpler to recut one piece than to wait until the end)
Also, unless using a contrast or feature band on the front edges, usually I adapt the pattern so the band is folded and self faced.  It cuts down on seam allowances that interfere with making buttonholes.






« Last Edit: February 02, 2024, 09:50:04 AM by Morgan »

fajita

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2018, 12:51:15 PM »
Thanks @Morgan

Cuffs done. Coffee break time.

What you say about rejigging the order of work makes sense. I'll bear that in mind next time.

 At the moment I'm slavishly following instructions. After this I'm an expert, right?

b15erk

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2018, 12:59:56 PM »
Fajita, I wish I'd started my shirt journey on a full grown shirt, rather than a baby shirt - those collar stands are tricky enough.

Well done for getting your cuffs done!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

wrenkins

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2018, 15:20:56 PM »
Thanks @Morgan

Cuffs done. Coffee break time.

What you say about rejigging the order of work makes sense. I'll bear that in mind next time.

 At the moment I'm slavishly following instructions. After this I'm an expert, right?
See one. Do one. Teach one!  :)
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Morgan

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2018, 21:32:58 PM »
At the moment I'm slavishly following instructions. After this I'm an expert, right?

Of course . . .

fajita

Re: Mans shirt simplicity 1544bb
« Reply #10 on: August 07, 2018, 13:30:14 PM »
Almost finished. Washed, hanging on the line.
I need three more buttons. One for collar and two for cuffs.

Time to tidy sewing area. Seems to have developed a mess.