The Sewing Place

Burda August 2018

jen

Burda August 2018
« on: August 13, 2018, 10:51:59 AM »
I’m making up the coat 117 from this magazine, and decided to cut and sew a 40 straight up, no pattern measuring or fitting. I picked this size because in the past it seemed to fit, despite my actual bust measurement being larger than the table of measurements by one and a half inches. I’m an inverse pear, and 5 foot 4, so about one and a half inches shorter than their table. You’ve guessed where this is going? Trying it on without the lining I’m finding it bigger on me than expected. Not catastrophic, but definitely a baggier fit than the model.
Now this will be the third Burda which has turned out bigger than expected. The other two were jersey designs, so I put it down to a different type of jersey being used, and/or the drafter using a wovens block for a stretch fabric. It’s been a few years since I made up one of their wovens, when a 40 fitted.
Has anyone found Burda mag patterns getting a tad bigger?

blubli

Re: Burda August 2018
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2018, 23:13:02 PM »
I haven't found Burda magazine patterns getting bigger but I don't trust the fit on their models because their photography is often terrible. I prefer to look at the plain garment picture on the German website and compare to the line drawing. On their envelope patterns their fit description is everything. And on both magazine and envelope I cut a smaller size for jersey unless I'm specifically making a cuddlier winter type item.

Does your coat look a bit big and puffy like in this picture? Or "egg-shaped", as they call it in the American website. :[
The coat looks so much slimmer on the model that I'm wondering if they put some serious clamps on the back of the coat for the picture.

These days I mostly sew from Burda because I get a better fit, so I guess I'm a bit biased!
For what it's worth I'm also 5ft 4" but fairly hourglass and short waisted so with Burda I mostly adjust for height and waist length.

Renegade Sewist

Re: Burda August 2018
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2018, 04:20:45 AM »
I'm betting on the clamps. Burda is in my opinion and experience notorious for styling the heck out of voluminous style patterns. I bought a print version pattern that looked fine in the drawing and nice on the model but was somewhat like a tent in reality. Closer inspection of the photo and they had pulled about 1/3 of the front back under her armpits. She was posed so her arms pinned it there, just like in this photo.

I just find the styling to be so deceptive and not just from Burda.

PS: I like the coat.
Hey Bill! Read the manual!  Hehehe.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Burda August 2018
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2018, 08:40:49 AM »
I picked up Burda August yesterday lunchtime and had a good look in the evening.
Quite a few I fancy the look of, and if things are running slightly large this may be in my favour as I'm a 46 (or more?) these days.
I wonder if the answer is to flat pattern measure before tracing, think about the fabric and silhouette (and therefore likely ease) and then based on the fabric you plan to use cut out the size with about the right flat measurements?

So for instance these trousers look like they have a bit of ease

but these look more fitted
[
and these plus ones are made of ponte or jersey so assume some stretch

jen

Re: Burda August 2018
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2018, 13:49:35 PM »
I ought to have done some flat pattern measurements, but eyeballing the pieces I was expecting a snugger fit, in fact I cut 1.5 seam allowances, instead of my usual 1.0 in case of needing to let it out. Have to admit I’d forgotten about Burda’s trick of pegging excess out on the model. The design is really nice btw and the making up is a cinch for a lined coat.

dolcevita

Re: Burda August 2018
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2018, 21:35:41 PM »
I always measure the pattern pieces before I trace them out and I don't trust any sizing! 

I haven't found any change in Burda's sizing, but they do vary the amount of ease a lot and there's currently a lot of boxy/baggy styles in the magazines.  I thought that there were quite a few wearable styles in the August issue, but it's getting a bit cool for me to go sleeveless now so I probably won't make anything more from it as I've just cut out a few things from my new Ottobre magazine.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Burda August 2018
« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2018, 07:13:04 AM »
I buy Burda every month and enjoy looking at the magazines, but the whole tracing thing puts me off making things from them unless I really really love it.
I do learn a lot just by looking at the garment drawings and the shape of the pattern pieces in the layout diagrams.
I have in the past had good results with their trousers but had a disaster earlier this year which put me off rather.

There's a few things I like in the August magazine.

101/102 interests me as the yoke/sleeve is all one piece and I wonder how it would look in a stripe jersey as the stripes change direction from the front to back and how they would intersect with the front raglan sleeve seam.

122 also interests me from this perspective as the pieces are a different shape to 'normal' trouser patterns.

I like those sort of jigsaw patterns which don't have the normal recognisable pattern pieces but then sew up into a garment.
Perhaps I am talking myself into sewing them!

jen

Re: Burda August 2018
« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2018, 14:52:46 PM »
I quite fancy 122, if only because it offers possibilities if you don’t have a full length of fabric. I often find myself with fabric in two pieces, left over. You could get the main pieces out of a short length and the ends out of scraps. The curved seams make it less obvious that it’s a make do solution. I traced the coat on a paper de soie type of pattern paper which is sold in a local fabric store here. When I’ve only got heavier dot and cross type I make a sandwich with carbon sheets and trace over the lines with a knitting needle. This is even easier on the eyes but a bit tedious arranging the carbon. 101 has only got three pieces, no excuses there Ruthie :D