The Sewing Place

Lightweight knit neckline

WendyW

Lightweight knit neckline
« on: August 16, 2018, 04:36:58 AM »
I'm doing a shirt from a t-shirt knit. It's lighter weight than I usually work with. It's a scoop neckline on a princess-seam top. The pattern calls for a facing with fused interfacing, but I'd prefer a softer look. My first thought is just a self-fabric binding, but I'm afraid of overstretching the neckline in the process, since it's not a real stable knit. Any tricks for keeping it stable? I can't buy water-soluble stabilizer locally, and I'd like to have it to wear this weekend. Or other ideas for a finish?

Efemera

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2018, 09:15:47 AM »
Stay stitch it...

Nevis5

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2018, 09:20:21 AM »
Do you have any fine knit interfacing?  I would fuse a thin strip of that (cut crosswise) around the seamline to stabilise. If it's really fine it won't show.

BrendaP

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2018, 09:27:12 AM »
It doesn't have to be bound.  Just a straight strip of fabric joined into a circle,  folded in half and stitched to the neck edge, so three raw edges together.  Overlock if you wish then topstitch the seam allowance down with a twin needle (or cover stitcher)

The length of the fabric strip should be such that it has to be slightly stretched to fit around the neck.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Ploshkin

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2018, 09:43:21 AM »
I would also do it as Brenda says and also stay stitch first as Efemera says.  For the neckline strip I measure the neckline and cut a strip 80% of the neckline length + seam allowance for joining the ends.
Life's too short for ironing.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2018, 10:42:46 AM »
Is it just me that won't stay stitch cos I usually manage to stretch it out?  Yes?  Oh dear!

Morgan

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2018, 12:14:40 PM »
These days I recommend stabilising with a strip of fusible lightweight knit interfacing rather than stay stitching.


On the strip of fusible mark the exact length of the seam line.
Place the fabric piece on the pattern piece so the edge matches exactly.
Fuse the strip to the seam allowance, just across the seam line.
Let it cool before moving.








WendyW

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2018, 14:17:12 PM »
It doesn't have to be bound.  Just a straight strip of fabric joined into a circle,  folded in half and stitched to the neck edge, so three raw edges together.  Overlock if you wish then topstitch the seam allowance down with a twin needle (or cover stitcher)

The length of the fabric strip should be such that it has to be slightly stretched to fit around the neck.

I don't know why I wasn't thinking of this option. I've certainly done it enough in the past. Been doing too much quilting instead of clothes I guess.

I added the stay-stitching (not a good result on this fabric) and then the strip of knit interfacing, and the end result was very good. My only complaint on finished project was that I only had a wide double-needle which caused more of pin-tuck effect on the neck and hem than I would like. Here's my finished shirt:

The pattern is a shortened dress pattern, and I'd like to go back and make a couple style changes, but I'm happy with the fit from altering a pattern that never did fit correctly.
 feather shirt by CraftymamaMN, on Flickr

And yesterday afternoon I found a cute maxi skirt at a garage sale for 25c that became this shirt. Just barely had enough to fabric to squeeze out the sleeve caps, but I managed it, and even matched the stripes at the side seams. Couldn't manage it at the shoulders though. SW shirt by CraftymamaMN, on Flickr
« Last Edit: August 17, 2018, 15:47:16 PM by WendyW »

Vezelay

Re: Lightweight knit neckline
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2018, 15:06:36 PM »
Well done with your tee neckline @WendyW . I found lowering the machine tension helps no-end with that twin needle tunnelling. It's a fine line of course as if the tension is too low the stitching comes loose. And of course you have to remember to reset the tension dial again afterwards  :[. I'm sure no-one will notice anyway.

I'm off to a car boot sale tomorrow and can guarantee there will be nothing for 25c.  :'(