The Sewing Place

Diagonal Dart Problem

Acorn

Diagonal Dart Problem
« on: August 19, 2018, 21:11:48 PM »
I have just been cutting out the pattern for a Lekala top that has diagonal darts.  This is the technical drawing:

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Unfortunately on cutting out the pieces I realised that the top is very short, coming only just below the waist.  I need it to be at least 4 inches longer, preferably a bit more, and normally I would just lengthen it at the appropriate point.  However, because of the diagonal dart I cannot do this.  This is the pattern piece:

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Does anyone have any advice?  Should I fold the dart and add length below it, or do you think this would lose the effect of the dart?

Should I just look for another pattern...?   -<
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Efemera

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2018, 21:14:18 PM »
Just cut along that P2/1 horizontal line.. add 4 inches and draw in the dart again.

Acorn

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2018, 21:28:05 PM »
Of course... I was thinking that that would change the shape of the top, but actually it'll just make it like the technical drawing, which is what I wanted in the first place! 

Thanks Effie.   :)
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Greybird

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2018, 22:42:53 PM »
As far as I can see the only difference would be that the dart will emanate from the side seam instead of from the bottom of the garment. It will be like the dresses we used to make in the 60s - my first wedding dress had darts just like that.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2018, 08:21:56 AM »
If you do as Efemera says and join the dart legs (bottom) to the point then the dart will be the same and end up in the same place.

Acorn

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2018, 14:52:34 PM »
I've just cut out and pinned this and tried it on, and I think the combination of the sewn down box pleat and the diagonal darts is going to make a really lovely top - it has a lovely shape, fitting where I want it to and skimming in all the right places.  I might miss off the cuffs.  Not sure yet.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Elnnina

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2018, 15:28:10 PM »
I shall watch this one with interest Acorn.  That could well be a top that would solve a lot of my problems, i.e. hide them!

Acorn

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2018, 23:21:31 PM »
I've posted a picture of the top over on my sewing diary thread.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

annieg

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #8 on: August 24, 2018, 12:57:14 PM »
@Acorn I loved your top so much I've bought the pattern this morning.
Let you know how it goes...
Annieg

Acorn

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #9 on: August 24, 2018, 19:53:29 PM »
Brilliant!  I hope you like it.   :)
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

annieg

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #10 on: August 24, 2018, 22:50:38 PM »
@Acorn   toilet cut and pinned together this afternoon but didn't print off the making instructions so will need to check back  Lekala tomorrow.
Watch this space....
Annieg

annieg

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2018, 15:22:10 PM »
@Acorn   I just noticed my "deliberate" mistake in my last post - I should have said TOILE not Toilet!! :|

How far down (from the  neckline) did you stitch the front pleat?
Annieg


annieg

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #12 on: August 25, 2018, 16:49:43 PM »
  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  @Acorn
Here's the toile - sorry its not a good photo.
The fabric is heavy-weight (more like curtaining) but a great colour and I'll probably finish it off as a wearable toile.
What do you think?
Annieg
« Last Edit: August 25, 2018, 16:58:23 PM by annieg »

Acorn

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #13 on: August 25, 2018, 18:01:32 PM »
That looks good - I love the fabric.

I sewed the centre pleat pretty much to the line marked on the pattern, which is also the line at which I inserted the extra bit to make it longer.  I pinned it all together and tried it on (ouch ouch ouch!) first and made sure that I was happy with the dart at that point.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2018, 21:28:21 PM by Acorn »
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

annieg

Re: Diagonal Dart Problem
« Reply #14 on: August 26, 2018, 12:41:40 PM »
@Acorn .  There's about 1 metre plus left if that fabric.  It's yours for the price of postage if you want it.....
 :D
Annieg