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Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )

annieg

Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« on: September 07, 2018, 13:24:01 PM »
I'm going to have a stab at making the Jalie Elenore pull on jeans which stipulates either denim or twill with 20% stretch across the grain.
Any idea where I can get this ?
(Any sites I've look don't seem to manage a search using the words 20% stretch....)
TIA
Annieg

sdBev

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2018, 15:04:29 PM »
I'm going to have a stab at making the Jalie Elenore pull on jeans which stipulates either denim or twill with 20% stretch across the grain.
Any idea where I can get this ?
(Any sites I've look don't seem to manage a search using the words 20% stretch....)
TIA
Annieg
Thats a continual problem for me too in the US.  I look for Lycra which I think is elastine on your side of the pond? For Jalie patterns I test the old fashioned way, take 10” and stretch as far as possible.(Sorry, not sure wat that is in metric). It must stretch at least 2” which is 20% of 10”.  Jalie is serious about stretch.  Dont try a fabric with out the required stretch. It will not work. Ask me how I know.

annieg

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2018, 16:27:53 PM »
@sdBev
Thanks for the advice, I'll adhere strictly to the Jalie guidelines!
Annieg

BrendaP

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2018, 18:16:50 PM »
Lycra is a brand name, elastane or spandex are the generic names.  That's true either side of the pond.

20% stretch is probably about 5% elastane/spandex/Lycra.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Ploshkin

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2018, 18:54:37 PM »
@annieg  I think you'll find that any denims listed as stretch will have nowhere near 20% stretch - we've discussed stretch denims some time ago I recall.
You probably need to look specifically at stretch fabrics and find something denimy.
Life's too short for ironing.

mudcat

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2018, 20:02:07 PM »
I bought 20% stretch denim from EOS a couple of years ago for Jalie jeans ... which I've yet to make since my fitting still needs to be worked out.  I realize the shipping would be too much for most of you but in the description it stated they were 20% stretch while the lycra content was only 4%. A lot of online fabric sites don't provide the best descriptions so you might have to ask them to check it for you if you see 4-5% lycra content.

Vezelay

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2018, 22:53:18 PM »
We'll I'm about to chance the Eleanore jeans in denim with 3% lycra and possibly 20% stretch if I pull hard  ><. I'll cut the next size up from my hip measurement and am prepared to take a wider seam allowance. They'll need a flat bottom adjustment anyway which I'll copy from my StyleArc Elle pants, and slimline legs ditto.

I'm using the fabric and patterns I have but  it makes sense to go for 5% lycra if you're buying @annieg. Maybe we can compare notes  :)

BrendaP

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2018, 23:46:29 PM »
A lot of the stretch denims are only 2-3% elastane, and IME nowhere near 20% stretch; 10% at most.

https://www.empressmills.co.uk/shop/fabrics/denim-fabric/plain-denim-fabric/crinkle-denim-fabric-dark-blue/  is 5%.

Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Vezelay

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2018, 15:08:36 PM »
What about this @annieg ? Ireland but she will post to the UK I know.

annieg

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2018, 16:57:37 PM »
Thanks @Vezelay for the link. 
  :D
Annieg

Vezelay

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2018, 12:50:40 PM »
@annieg  I'm not sure if you know about this $2 pattern add on from Jalie which turns the faux front pockets into real pockets. I know it's possible to make this adjustment yourself but for the sake of just over £1 I thought I'd save myself the effort.

I hope you get the fabric you want. I'm going ahead with mine. I made the Style Arc Elle which is intended for their bengaline 30% stretch fabric from a woven with virtually no stretch at all - twice - and they're fine so I'm not too worried.

annieg

Re: Fabric with 20% stretch in the width (across the grain )
« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2018, 13:13:18 PM »
Thanks to all for their replies.
This certainly helps me - now I just need to buy the fabric and make them....
 :D
Annieg