Fit Models and Pattern Makers

[Sewingsue]

Boppingbeth referred to the different fit models used in her comments on Sewing Workshop and Patterns for Pirates patterns.

Either because I never thought about it or because I grew up in the time of the Big Pattern Companies I had never heard of Fit Models.

Now I am not sure if I will ever venture into the new companies (they certainly aren't aiming at my age group), but if anyone has a spare minute can you explain to this old bird how one finds out which model is used by which companies and what difference that would make?

[Bodgeitandscarper]

Absolutely no idea 

[doesntworkonwood]

I think that the jist of it is that every pattern company (including the big 4) has a fit model. This person tends to be smack bang in the middle of their size range, with measurements corresponding. Part of their job is remaining the same size and shape. If a company has multiple size ranges, they might have multiple fit models (eg a plus size fit model as well as a standard).

They'll base their pattern block on this person, including any 'quirks' of this persons body (eg short waisted, wide shoulders etc) and then grade up and down from that one size.

I don't think any company has publicised who their fit model is (which makes it harder to tell what the specific quirks are), but some of the companies will include a larger range of measurements than the standard bust waist hip. If you have a look on the website you can usually find a bigger size chart which includes things like back length, shoulder width etc. Some companies are a bit more reticent with these measurements but hopefully you should be able to e-mail them and get the info. I wouldn't really trust any company who wont e-mail it to you to actually know what they're doing. I don't know why they wont just publish it. 

There are a few companies that will tell you just what body type their fit model is, eg sewaholic is for pear shaped people and deer and doe for hourglass figures with a c/d cup. There are also some patterns designed specifically for petite.

The information is useful because if you're long waisted and you've got narrow shoulders, then a pattern that's based on a short waisted and wide shouldered person will need a bit more alteration, and you may be better off going with a different company. Also if you find a pattern that fits you out of an envelope, and you know what type of 'quirks' the fit model from that pattern company has, it might help you know what to look for in other patterns.

[Sewingsue]

Thank you all.
It can get complicated this making business 

[Bogwoppit]

I think I'll wander off to look at Deer and Doe then....

[wrenkins]

I think I'll wander off to look at Deer and Doe then....

My thoughts exactly! 

[wrenkins]

Well that didn't take long!!!!!!

[jen]

Garment manufacturers tend to work to a standardised set of sizes, and when showing their wares to buyers look for models as close as possible to their standard. I’m surprised if pattern manufacturers fit body ‘quirks’ of any models, though I’ve heard rumours about certain indies designing for the owner’s body type. DP Studio publish a full measurement chart. Not many pattern companies do this. A full chart will help you determine if for example your shoulder length or CB to waist measurement matches the block they work from. Measurements don’t correlate to shape though. Some quirks like a more or less pronounced shoulder slope or the exact position of bulges between waist and hips aren’t going to be catered for in patterns.

[Bogwoppit]

Well that didn't take long!!!!!!

My thoughts exactly

[Sewingsue]

Well that didn't take long!!!!!!

Likewise
OTOH I did like several of the P4P patterns.
Just need to get my head round the whole 'print off and stick your own patterns together' thing.

My head being an old model with unreliable brain cells.



Oh, and then there is the question of learning to sew knits.

[BrendaP]

There is a British Standard specification for women's standard sizes (intended for the RTW industry).
BS 3666

I don't have access to it, nor do I wish to shell £102.

I do have  a 1967 book "Sizing, Pattern Construction and Graging for Women's and Children's Garments" by Philip Kunick.  which is about how the first version of BS3666 came about in 1963.  Part of the introduction reads:
...a survey of some 5,000 women was carried out by the Clothing Industry Development Council in 1951  ...  The results of the survey were published .....   in 1957 under the title 'Women's Measurements and Sizes'.....
British Standards Institution completed its work on 'Size Codes for Women's Outerwear' which was published on 18th September 1963.  The complete standared will be found in Chapter 3

Chapter 3 gives the list of sizes, from size 8, hips 34-35" Bust 32-33'  through to size 32, hips 55-57" bust 53-55".

Chapter 4 though is much more interesting, Measuring technique, Measurements and Sizes is about how they measured those 5,000 women; taking 42 different measurments from each one.

In the end they came up with short 5'1", medium 5'4", tall 5'7" and very tall 5'10", small bust (4" smaller than hip), medium bust (2" smaller than hip)  and full bust (same as hip) and came up with charts covering all of those in sizes 8-28.

The scan shows just how many possible sizes there are, and no wonder that RTW only makes the few most common.

The rest of the book is about pattern construction, ease and grading.

The other three scans show all the measurements that were taken.

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

[jen]

I have grading books with measurement survey results in also, to me an interesting aspect was that the figure shape which ended up as the standard (hips 2 inches bigger than bust) was the most common in the surveys, but more women didn’t fit this profile than did. I’m not looking at the book now and can’t recall the exact percentages, but the standard wasn’t sufficiently ahead to beat the other configurations taken together. I think this is a good argument for teaching sewing, because most people won’t be able to get a good fit off the peg. Similarly, manufacturers didn’t want to diversify into different height options, so went for increasing height as torso width increased . Pretty daft.

[Boppingbeth]

This was a helpful article about the independent pattern designers and the fit models they start with:

There is a designer for that.

[Ohsewsimple]

Similarly, manufacturers didn’t want to diversify into different height options, so went for increasing height as torso width increased . Pretty daft.

Oh but don't they look nice and well balanced on the hangers in the shops @jen.  Just a shame they look awful on the body. 

[sewmuchmore]

My method.

1) Sit at table. Pour wine.

…. and drink at regular intervals, you are better off having a few bottles to hand,  so you don't' have to leave the table too often  .