The Sewing Place

Butterick 5963

b15erk

Butterick 5963
« on: September 13, 2018, 14:29:10 PM »
I've just started to trace this off after debating with myself about the size to cut.  I'd read the PR reviews and a couple said it came up very big, so bearing this in mind, I began to trace the size 18.  I measure 41 bust, and size 18 says this is size 40, so I thought that would be OK.

Then I traced the front gown piece, only to find that actual size for a size 18, is coming out at 471/2"!

This sounds a lot of ease to me, and I'm worried about the shoulders being very wide.

Should I change horses mid stream and start tracing a size 16?  or should I make up a toile in the size 18?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Francesca

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2018, 14:45:24 PM »
When you say "it measures" do you mean:

1) The "body measurements" on the envelope are 41" = 18
2) The "finished garment measurements" on the envelope are 41" = 18
3) You've measured the bust and it's 41" = 18

Those are three different scenarios and mean different things.

Also what are you sewing from the pattern. By "gown" do you mean the dressing gown or the nightgown?

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2018, 14:51:05 PM »
Sorry Fran, post reads as clear as mud.

I measure 41"
Pattern size 18 is 40"
Actual finished measurement on the pattern piece is 47"

7" seems a lot of ease to me....

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ellabella

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2018, 14:52:28 PM »
The last Big 4 pattern I made was for a sleeveless blouse.

According to their measurements I needed an XL graded out to an XXL for the hips.  After checking the front against an existing blouse I cut a L and if anything it is still a little large.  Next time I am cutting a M with a larger seam allowance.

The amount of ease they carry is absolutly ridiculous, but at least they print it on the pattern these days.

@b15erk I'd go for a 16.  I know it says loose fitting but thats taking it to extremes
Desperately trying to alliterate in North Yorkshire

Francesca

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2018, 14:59:37 PM »
Big4 do tend to run with a lot of ease and according to the Butterick ease chart, it falls into the "loose-fitting" bust ease which makes sense for nightwear.

If you don't want that much ease, I'd just size down. Check the measurements for the 16 and compare them to the ease chart to give you a better idea of the fit you're after.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2018, 16:13:03 PM »
Thanks for that Fran and Ellabella.  I think I'll start again tomorrow and do a size 16.

The ease information was shown printed on the pattern piece and in tiny letters, so I only saw it after I had traced several pieces.  The chart is really useful.

I'll start again tomorrow when I'm feeling less deflated.  :S

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2018, 13:30:26 PM »
OK, I'm off to trace!  Size 16 it is!

The pattern looks very simple, and the plan is, not to overlock, but to use a Hong Kong finish on the seams (the gown isn't lined). 

I'm doing the short version first, as a sort of wearable muslin, so that will also test the size.  Fingers crossed.

The pyjama fabric hasn't arrived yet, but that doesn't mean I can't make a start with the top.  I have loads of suitable fabric, and lots of lace for the back insert, so yet again, fingers crossed.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.