The Sewing Place

Butterick 5963

b15erk

Butterick 5963
« on: September 13, 2018, 14:29:10 PM »
I've just started to trace this off after debating with myself about the size to cut.  I'd read the PR reviews and a couple said it came up very big, so bearing this in mind, I began to trace the size 18.  I measure 41 bust, and size 18 says this is size 40, so I thought that would be OK.

Then I traced the front gown piece, only to find that actual size for a size 18, is coming out at 471/2"!

This sounds a lot of ease to me, and I'm worried about the shoulders being very wide.

Should I change horses mid stream and start tracing a size 16?  or should I make up a toile in the size 18?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Francesca

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2018, 14:45:24 PM »
When you say "it measures" do you mean:

1) The "body measurements" on the envelope are 41" = 18
2) The "finished garment measurements" on the envelope are 41" = 18
3) You've measured the bust and it's 41" = 18

Those are three different scenarios and mean different things.

Also what are you sewing from the pattern. By "gown" do you mean the dressing gown or the nightgown?

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2018, 14:51:05 PM »
Sorry Fran, post reads as clear as mud.

I measure 41"
Pattern size 18 is 40"
Actual finished measurement on the pattern piece is 47"

7" seems a lot of ease to me....

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ellabella

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2018, 14:52:28 PM »
The last Big 4 pattern I made was for a sleeveless blouse.

According to their measurements I needed an XL graded out to an XXL for the hips.  After checking the front against an existing blouse I cut a L and if anything it is still a little large.  Next time I am cutting a M with a larger seam allowance.

The amount of ease they carry is absolutly ridiculous, but at least they print it on the pattern these days.

@b15erk I'd go for a 16.  I know it says loose fitting but thats taking it to extremes
Desperately trying to alliterate in North Yorkshire

Francesca

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2018, 14:59:37 PM »
Big4 do tend to run with a lot of ease and according to the Butterick ease chart, it falls into the "loose-fitting" bust ease which makes sense for nightwear.

If you don't want that much ease, I'd just size down. Check the measurements for the 16 and compare them to the ease chart to give you a better idea of the fit you're after.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2018, 16:13:03 PM »
Thanks for that Fran and Ellabella.  I think I'll start again tomorrow and do a size 16.

The ease information was shown printed on the pattern piece and in tiny letters, so I only saw it after I had traced several pieces.  The chart is really useful.

I'll start again tomorrow when I'm feeling less deflated.  :S

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2018, 13:30:26 PM »
OK, I'm off to trace!  Size 16 it is!

The pattern looks very simple, and the plan is, not to overlock, but to use a Hong Kong finish on the seams (the gown isn't lined). 

I'm doing the short version first, as a sort of wearable muslin, so that will also test the size.  Fingers crossed.

The pyjama fabric hasn't arrived yet, but that doesn't mean I can't make a start with the top.  I have loads of suitable fabric, and lots of lace for the back insert, so yet again, fingers crossed.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2018, 15:50:56 PM »
Talk about frustrating!  I have the fabric ready and waiting for the short version of this robe - and there isn't enough fabric!

Just been back to the fabric shop, and they have none left.  The only other suitable fabric, is and orange - and I'm not sure I'll have enough of that!  If that is the case, I'm going straight in with the pink I got for the longer version  (I think...).

This should have been made by now!  :S

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Francesca

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #8 on: September 25, 2018, 16:06:40 PM »
Could you do a mish-mash of fabrics? Add a large band to the bottom of the gown and to the sleeves to make contrasting panels? Add in some flat piping of the same down the front to tie it all together?

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #9 on: September 25, 2018, 16:41:37 PM »
Not really Fran.  The fabric I was going to use is a lovely pale lavender blue, and the other bright orange.

I've just managed to cut out the orange, and it will be fine for the short Robe toile, I'm keeping the pink for the full length gown. I need the toile really to test the construction.  The pattern says no nap, but the lovely pink I've bought, has a self coloured stripe woven in.

The orange will be PK for around the house, and I can make some pyjamas in orange tones.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2018, 09:28:57 AM »
Feeling a bit sulky this morning as I couldn't get more of the lavender/blue fabric, so I now have the short robe cut out in orange....

I didn't start sewing it last night, as I wanted to finish the Eleonore trousers while the overlocker was threaded with black thread.

Today is the day. I'm consoling myself that it is meant as a toile.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #11 on: September 27, 2018, 09:08:33 AM »
Eventually finished cutting this out.  I left the bands and ties in order to get the main pieces cut out, unfortunately, these are cut to size, and markings are crucial.  So, today I go back to the pattern pieces to mark off the measurements for the short length....  :| :S

The application of the neck band looks unnecessarily complicated, and I read on PReview that someone else thought that too.  I'm thinking of modifying it, and using the Overlocker...

If anyone has made this - just the Robe at present, I would welcome any hints.  This was meant to be an easy make after being ill, so maybe it's me making a meal of it.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #12 on: September 28, 2018, 09:09:59 AM »
The band has me beaten!  I cannot make this robe as per the Butterick instructions because I can't understand them!

I think there are some markings missing on the front right band, but not altogether sure.  The instructions don't match up with the pattern pieces.  The left piece also calls for you to cut out 2 pieces, but then there seem to be no instructions for the second piece....

So, I decided to modify it, and do it my own way.

I pinned it together, and the size seems OK.  The sleeve is dropping a bit, but may look better when the other sleeve is in, and the whole lot sewn together.

Jessie



Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2018, 09:15:10 AM »
Finished!  I really like it - all except the colour, and the long ties.

I'll be making another two versions, one long, and one short, but making a couple of alterations.

I shortened the sleeves and added a cuff/rib, and I dislike overlong sleeves, they are now just right.

I didn't put a pocket in, as this version is a toile.  I may not put one in the next version, as it is less bulky without.

The sleeves do drop a bit, and I'll trim a bit off on the next one - maybe just fold it out of the shoulder.

The thing that I hate most, are the ties.  This is mainly due to the fabric being towelling, but mostly because I dislike bulky tie belts.  I need to think of another fastening method - buttons/snaps?

The instructions let this pattern down.  Such a shame, as the fit is good - I cut a 16, and the only alteration I need is sleeve length, and a bit of a shoulder adjustment - about 1/2".  It certainly isn't a pattern for beginners IMHO though.

I have fabric for another short robe, and pyjama set for my hols at Christmas.  Also some lovely fleecy towelling type, which will need careful handling due to the woven stripe.

Definitely a thumbs up!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Greybird

Re: Butterick 5963
« Reply #14 on: October 01, 2018, 09:18:24 AM »
That looks great! I agree with you about the ties - would be better with a press stud or maybe a big button?