Do I need an overlocker?

[wrenkins]

It might be heretical to say this but I don't find you have to service sewing machines all that often and certainly not every year. I'm embarrassed to say how long I've left it sometimes but without any problems. I bet all you TSPers are kind to your machines and service them every year. 

Neither of my machines has ever been on a boat. 
I once left my old girl in to a man long retired but he did something weird and it never ran as well afterwards. The bobbin winder finally packed up. I am now in the "ain't broke, don't fix it" camp.

[arrow]

Don't be afaid of an overlocker, you will manage it. I would say a good sewing machine does neat single needle overcock stitches, overcast included. Not all machines are that neat stichers, but most of the ones I tried did a good job. The advantage with an overlocker is speed, wider stitch and it does different stitch patterns. Two needles, and four threads gives more options. There is a Babylock with a 3 needle model, and 8 thread but I have yet so test sew one.

On the other hand, I have seen a few vintage garments, not very old, but 50s to 80s, and much less over lock is used. The cut, and seams are best quality, they used binding more often, sometimes it's cover stiting more than overlock finish off edges. I would say there are techniques to lift sewing to the next level with out an overlocker. Remember a Dior coat from around 1960, an Yves Saint Laurent trench coat from the 1980s, and a Chanel pleated skirt from the 80s, not an overlock seam in sight. The Dior coat was combination of machine and hand stitching, the YSL men's coat was mostly machine straight stitch with clever use of  seam binding, flat felled seam, all very neat and visible from the inside. I dont think any of these garmens stand back to what we get get to day, or even do with an overlocker. I guess the main advantage with an overlocker is for knits and jersey, neat stretchy seams are easily made with them.

[Tamnymore]

I confess that I only got my machines serviced when a sewing machine engineer chappie came to a local craft shop for a couple of days.

[Kenora]

My "good" sewing machine is probably coming up for a service but I'm reluctant to take it in because it's sewing beautifully and I'd hate to find it different when it came back from service. Lack of trust, I suppose, but you do hear of horror stories.  I clean it religiously after every project, and oil it once a week (I use it every day) so it doesn't get clogged up at all. I suppose I just don't want to be parted from it - sad really.

I oil the overlocker frequently too, but there's much less to go wrong on it as it's not computerised like the s/m. I also clean it out after every use. 

[arrow]

For service, and repair, I don't really trust anyone anymore. My bike has a 7 speed gear hub, it's almost a year old. I know a lot of bike mechanics would recommend having it check and regreased at this point, it has been used every day since Febuary.  Even Shimano (maker) recommends service after given number of kilometers. Yesterday I passed a bike shop calling themselves the equivalent of "The bicycle Girls". The person behind the counter in the repair/mechanical section told me just to use the bike until it brakes down, these hubs are maintanace free. Then we just repair or replace it. This is the standard, when the experts give you bad advice you know you better trust your self and your own judgement. The back wheel sometimes locks up when I have used the pedal brake, I have to push the bike a bit to free it up, I know it needs a bit of lubrication. I know the advice on sewing machines are that much better; "by a new one", "too old for repair", "are you sure you don't want a newer model", "we sell better machines", "no sewing machines stitches well with hand stitch thread or top stitch". We just have to find someone who bothers to do it right.

[BrendaP]

I have seen a few vintage garments, not very old, but 50s to 80s, and much less over lock is used.

Garments made from firm woven fabrics don't need overlocking. Stretchy fabrics do.

Whilst in the museum looking at the Singer 29K I chatted with a steward.  He knew a lot about the social conditions and how in the factory each person did one little part of the manufacturing process and then passed the work on.  However, he did say that he didn't know anything about sewing though he managed to throw in the word overlocking.  I was able to show him the difference between straight stitching as made by vintage machines using my RTW raincoat (lightweight woven nylon with ne'er a zig or a zag to be seen in the stitching) and the overlocked seams in my, me-made, cardi made of stretchy jersey fabric.

[arrow]

For commercially made clothing there has been overlock stitches used for a long time, the first version appeared before 1900, and I guess the technology isn't that much different from 1950s to know. The first household overlockers came in the 1960s and for a long time there was only Bayblock. Maybe other brands quickly entered the picture, but I haven't heard of any. The first overlockers I saw first hand were in the 1980s, regular house hold version, but only a few had them. I know they had industrial three tread overlock by 1930, I think the Union and Singer machines that turn up are one needle, and I don't know when the first two needle model was introduced. Either way, the technology was there, yet they used it much less than today, knit sweaters were finished off and pieced together differently, very neat. Much the same for fine knit jersey too.  If enough people start to rave about overlockers they will gain popluarity in either secion, domestic or industrial. It doesn't say much, popularity is ephemeral, it easily shifts on to the next thing.

I have noticed they use flat felled seams on jersey to firm things up; sometimes there's two parallel straight stitch seams, other times there are something that looks like straight stitch seams on top, but a particular type of overlock stitch under, very firm, little to no stretch. My point is really, there's often more than one option and can turn out very nice either way.

[mudcat]

I have a Babylock Imagine that I bought back in the early 2000s (I don't recall exactly which year).  I remember wanting it quite badly.  I  know I used it back then but never as much as I thought I would.  I haven't used it in quite a few years. I keep thinking I might try to use it again but there is currently something off about the stitching and I haven't had the patience to get it adjusted correctly.

My Viking #1 has an overlock style stitch that I use all the time on both knits and wovens.  It works much better than zigzagging which in my experience had a tendency to pull the fabric.  Using the overlock stitch isn't as fast as a serger but it is more sturdy and looks fine. I realize that not all sewing machines have this stitch.

So while a serger/overlocker can be useful I don't think they're necessary.  At this point I believe I'd find a coverstitch more useful given that I primarily sew knits. 

[BrendaP]

I have noticed they use flat felled seams on jersey to firm things up; sometimes there's two parallel straight stitch seams, other times there are something that looks like straight stitch seams on top, but a particular type of overlock stitch under, very firm, little to no stretch. My point is really, there's often more than one option and can turn out very nice either way.

Two (or three) parallel rows of straight stitch on top and what looks like overlocking on the back is cover stitch.  A twin or triple needle in a regular machine can make a good imitation of that though it's not always as stretchy.

There are industrial machines which make two parallel rows of lock stitch - two needles and two bobbins.  There are also industrial machines which make two parallel rows of chain stitching - two needles and two loopers.

[crafter]

I don't think I would sew clothing without an overlocker.  My first was an industrial one given to me in the 80's and I was told it was about 40 years old then.  I also bought an industrial about 10 years ago which again was very old.  Unfortunately neither lasted very long once I got my hands on them.  In between I have always had the Brother cheapies.  I find they are perfect for what I want.  The last one I bought about 5 years ago.

I never have my machines serviced.  The cost is far too much.  Just clean and oil them often.

[Efemera]

I’m another that wouldn’t sew without an overlocker...I bought mine in around 1986... it must have sewn thousands  of miles and it’s still going strong.

[BrendaP]

My first overlocker, also from the 80s, was a cheapie 3 thread machine so only good for neatening raw edges.  But now I wouldn't be without one.  I chose a 4 thread Bernina and then got a coverstitcher.  That was a definite considered choice rather than go for a more expensive 5 thread overlocker which can be converted to coverstitch.

[Renegade Sewist]

I don't think I would sew clothing without an overlocker......

I never have my machines serviced.  The cost is far too much.  Just clean and oil them often.

There in a nutshell you have it. I don't sew as much as many of you and very few knits. I absolutely can't imagine not having it. It was worth every penny for me.

For the cleaning I'd like to but I'm a bit cheap. The sewing machine I got on sale for $295. Because it has an embroidery module which has to be taken in with it cleaning is $150.  No. I keep it clean, don't sew over pins, change the needle often and try not to exceed its capabilities. The serger could be replaced for $50 more then the cleaning price for it, so again I do my best to clean it and take good care of it.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

[Ploshkin]

I bought an elna 664 overlocker on the recommendation of a local seller.  They are about £250.  (Its probably the same as one of the Janine models)  I didn't want an expensive machine because I didn't know how much I would use it.   I have used it far more than I thought I would and I also now sew more knits than I did before I had it.  I frequently use it for seams on wovens (shirts etc) where it's ok for the seam to be pressed to one side and it saves so much time not having to zig zag seam allowances and trim.
I have used it on all manner of fabrics and have never even had to change the tension to get a perfect stitch.  It has never been even the slightest bit temperamental.

[Helen M]

I’m another that wouldn’t sew without an overlocker...I bought mine in around 1986... it must have sewn thousands  of miles and it’s still going strong.

Mine came home with me in 1989 (I had a good job and got a bonus!) and is still going. It (a Brother) has differential feed which was then only on a few machines but I opted for the 3 thread version as the 4 was over £100 more which was a lot back then. I remember I bought it on 12 month interest free credit .....anyone remember that?