The Sewing Place

There's no magic rescue to this is there?!

sleepraptor

There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« on: October 12, 2018, 23:18:52 PM »
I'm sewing a shift dress with an invisible zip at the back.  Fabric is a pain in the backside but that's another story.  I have sewn the shoulder seams, added a facing which I have undersewn and then put in the invisible zip at the back.  Except I have twisted one of the back pieces before sewing the 2nd side of the zip  :angry: ><.  There isn't any magic way of untwisting is there (appreciate I'm clutching at miracles here!).  So either it's unsew one side of the zip (plus the rest of the centre back seam which I have also sewn) or undo a shoulder seam which accompanying understitched facing isn't it?!

crafter

Re: There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2018, 00:14:17 AM »
I don't think I quite understand what you mean by twisted the back piece.

In any case, I would remove the zip, back seam, understitching and facing (the relevant party that is) and start again.

For an invisible zip, I would put it in before any of the above processes.  So take the two back pieces, insert zip, sew centre back seam below the zip and then think about the shoulder seam and facings. That's the way I would do it.  Good luck.

Yellowfeather

Re: There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2018, 05:43:39 AM »
There is no "miracle" cure if you have twisted one of the zip pieces.  You can just unpick that one side of the zip and just a few inches of the back seam, and sew back on the right way around, then re-sew the back seam.

BrendaP

Re: There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2018, 07:08:04 AM »
You will have to unpick something - I had to take out four buttonholes a couple of days ago because I got the spacing wrong!

I agree with crafter; if there is a centre back invisible zip to insert it's always the first thing to do and then you can treat the two halves of the back as one piece.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

sleepraptor

Re: There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2018, 07:11:06 AM »
Thank you for the replies.  My zip had worked out perfectly too!  It does make sense to do the zip first, I wonder why patterns tend not to do it in that order?

sleepraptor

Re: There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2018, 08:30:47 AM »
Hmm, but if you do the back centre zip first, and you have a facing that's sewn at the neckline and armholes, how do you pull the back through the shoulder seam?  I have unpicked and restitched my zip then sewn my armhole facings and now cannot turn it through!  Am I missing something?  Or am I unpicking the zip again?!

crafter

Re: There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2018, 11:17:27 AM »
Oh dear, I think I know the technique you are using. Did the pattern instructions advise this?  It is one that I would probably only use for waistcoats.

If I've got the right understanding of what is going on, this is what I would do.

Unpick shoulder seam
Unpick the under stitching on the armhole side by about 2 inches on the back and front.
Rejoin the front to back by stitching through the facing and bodice pieces in one long seam
Press the seam open and turn right side out
You should have a perfect neckline but you may have to slip stitch the arm side together.

I hope this is helpful.  It's  difficult to advise without seeing the problem.

sleepraptor

Re: There's no magic rescue to this is there?!
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2018, 08:37:29 AM »
Thank you Crafter, I think you do have the right idea, the technique would definitely work for waistcoats.  And yes it's what the pattern (M6028) advises.  It does make sense what you say but I really couldn't face (ha!) unpicking the facing as it was sat really well so I went for unpicking the blasted zip again.  Have finally now sorted it.  Thank you for your help.  I will post a picture when finally finished.