The Sewing Place

RTW stretch top with woven lining

Bodgeitandscarper

RTW stretch top with woven lining
« on: October 20, 2018, 08:38:34 AM »
I've bought a top (this one) that has a woven cotton under layer/lining.  This lining is sewn into the neck and armhole seams.  The problem I have is that the non-stretch makes it a bit tight across my upper back.  I'm trying to find an easy solution and I'm not planning on unpicking the armhole seams.  My though was to simply cut a vertical "slash" from just above the waist to the neckhole, and overlock the edges, with maybe a small reinforcing patch at the bottom of the slash.  This would give the required ease, and it's inside so not visible. 
Or maybe I should add an insert where I cut it?
Does anyone have any other solutions?  I really do not want to be spending much time on this, so the simpler the better.

BrendaP

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2018, 08:53:19 AM »
The link isn't working (I looked at the page source and it's incomplete) so difficult to make suggestions.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2018, 09:23:45 AM »
New linky

No idea why the previous link didn't work.

Greybird

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2018, 09:28:25 AM »
That looks lovely. I think your first idea of a slash opening, as far down as you need it, would work well. It would be just like a back neck opening that you get on many tops anyway. It will be completely unseen and wouldn't need anything else.

BrendaP

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2018, 09:33:30 AM »
Yes, I think it would work, just make sure the raw edges are covered (bound?) and reinforce the end of the slash.

New linky

No idea why the previous link didn't work.

The link provided was just "http://" and nothing else.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2018, 09:41:14 AM »
Pic of inside...

wrenkins

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2018, 09:48:54 AM »
I know nothing and have no experience of such things but my concern would be that the slash and run method might let it stretch too far. The lining must be there for some reason. I would tend to slash and put something in to stop it from stretching beyond that.  :)
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Greybird

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2018, 10:00:28 AM »
I think the neck stitching and shoulder seams should prevent it from stretching too far. I would go for it.

Ohsewsimple

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #8 on: October 20, 2018, 13:08:23 PM »
I'd be inclined to slash it and see if the opening alone gets annoying.  It might be inclined to fold under or something.  Then you can always put an insert in if you're not happy with it.

toileandtrouble

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #9 on: October 20, 2018, 13:27:31 PM »
Since it is not a cheap 'throwaway' garment, I'd spend a little time on it.  Undo the seams at neck and hem at the centre for about 3cm, then cut the lining top to bottom in the centre, sew in a full length strip of fabric, about 6cm wide and allowing a small seam allowance top and bottom (might have to hand sew the second side since it will be inside the garment, or unpick the hem more to get access)  Then fold the fabric in a box pleat to the outside and restitch the neck and hem seams.  The fold in the lining should give a bit of ease across the back and it won't rip or catch your arms when you put it on. If you can't match the lining colour, use a strip of something patterned, make it a bit 'glam' When the pleat is pressed, it will look like a deliberate design feature. (even if only you can see it!)
It really shouldn't take very long - says the one who forgot to put ease in her last lining and had to do just this.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #10 on: October 20, 2018, 13:39:13 PM »
That sounds a very neat idea of adding a strip, but at the bottom, it has a frill that hangs below the outer layer, so I'm not sure it will work.
I think I'll risk trying the "slash and run" technique - with added overlocking of course.

toileandtrouble

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #11 on: October 20, 2018, 14:46:04 PM »
Whoops, hadn't seen the picture with the frill.  If the lining is loose at the bottom, you wouldn't want to see the end of it.  Stop the slash well out of sight and sew a little square of fabric at the bottom to stop the rip.  You could still insert a piece partway down.  I'm sure I would get tangled in an open lining every time!
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2018, 16:57:45 PM »
I got around to doing this today, it's great, it feels so comfy now!
It's a bodge, but then, that's me  0_0

I slashed it from almost at the neck to just above the waist-ish.  I decided to use that fancy stitch for the re-inforcing squares and the edges as it would spread any "pull" on the stitches and lie nice and flat, not creating any slight ridge that might be visible through the fabric.  I didn't get the stitching quite right on one bit, but who's to know  :)
« Last Edit: October 23, 2018, 16:59:56 PM by Bodgeitandscarper »

toileandtrouble

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2018, 18:39:58 PM »
Result!
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

fajita

Re: RTW stretch top with woven lining
« Reply #14 on: October 23, 2018, 18:48:29 PM »
It's a clever idea. Not one I would have thought of. I'll keep it in mind!