The Sewing Place

Winter coat

Sonatine

Winter coat
« on: October 24, 2018, 14:10:57 PM »
I didn't want to put this in my diary thread as I think I'm going to be asking a lot of questions along the way! This is very new territory for me.

I'm going to attempt making a winter coat. So far for patterns:
I love this one but it's too big and I don't have any experience grading patterns down. It's exactly what I'm looking for though!
I also like this one and it's only two inches too big on the bust, which should be small enough for me to be able to take it in or it might even fit over thick layers.
Then there's also M7478 which might be easier to sew / fit as it's a modernised reissue, I still like it but it's not as striking as the other two in my opinion. I like the line drawings a lot more than the photos though so it could just be modern models not having the exaggerated tiny waists of the 1950s drawings on the other two patterns.

I would really appreciate any thoughts on pattern choice or if anyone knows of any other similar patterns. I also have a slight problem finding fabric as wool or high % wool mix will probably get eaten by moths so I need something largely synthetic, so I'm trawling the web now.
Excited to get started on this!

SkoutSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2018, 14:30:28 PM »
Take a look at Vogue V8346 here. Is this the sort of thing you are looking for?

Manuela

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2018, 14:32:02 PM »
I’d say go for the M7478 if you feel uncomfortable grading up or down. With this pattern you have a range of sizes nested, which makes it easier. Looking at the line art, I see many opportunities to nip in the waist further.



I’m not a fan of polyester, and would definitely go for wool or a wool/polyester mix with a high wool content - but that’s just my opinion  ;)
I’d highly recommend you make a muslin while you’re searching for the right fabric. You also need to think about interfacing.... fusible or sewn in would be the first decision you have to make there.

Acorn

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2018, 14:53:04 PM »
I think that (M7478) is a gorgeous coat.  If I went in more at the waist I would most definitely be making it!
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Nevis5

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2018, 14:54:42 PM »
I love it too, @Acorn , have been looking at the pattern for ages but I too have no waist and to try and squash it round me would ruin those lovely lines.  Good luck @Sonatine !  Coat making is time consuming but not difficult as Fran says. x

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #5 on: October 24, 2018, 15:09:06 PM »
Thanks all, M7478 ordered!
I've remembered some medium weight charcoal grey wool blend suiting with contrasting lining in my stash, I think I have enough as it was purchased to make a jacket and two skirts. I'd love to be able to use up something I've already bought instead of buying more, expecially as this is a first attempt at a coat. Would it be possible to use it but to interline the whole thing with cotton flannel for warmth? It's back at my parents' house so I can't feel it until Saturday and it might be much lighter weight than I think in which case I'd definitely have to find something else.

Nevis5

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2018, 15:20:12 PM »
@Sonatine  you could certainly use cotton flannel for interlining - I used to have a book by Kenneth King (American sewing god) who recommends flannel specifically. It would make a very warm coat!  Just make sure it's not too thick otherwise your coat will be bulky.  Good luck!

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2018, 15:21:42 PM »
Having said about using existing fabric I've just seen this rainbow weave wool and fallen slightly in love with it. £90 seems a lot when I'm not confident though.

sewingj

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2018, 15:42:45 PM »
@Sonatine   if you do get that fabric can you report back please?  I spotted it a few days ago and was thinking about it for a jacket

BrendaP

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2018, 15:59:15 PM »
I agree that the Vogue pattern has lots of possibilities to nip the waist in.

If this is your first attempt at a coat, and if you are not sure of the pattern/fit I do suggest making a toile.  No need to line it or do all the interfacings etc, just the main pieces for fitting purposes.  Can you get hold of an old blanket?  Charity shop maybe.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

wrenkins

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #10 on: October 25, 2018, 07:16:06 AM »
@Sonatine you never regret your extravagances!  :)
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Pinkstar

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #11 on: October 25, 2018, 11:52:36 AM »
The only thing to be aware of if you use flannel as a lining, is that if its a fairly narrow fitting sleeve the lining can grab on to the material of the top you are wearing and drag the sleeve up as you put the coat on and of course vise versa when you take the coat off.

Maybe consider something silky for the sleeve lining instead?

BTW that fabric is lovely.

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #12 on: October 25, 2018, 12:06:33 PM »
@Pinkstar the flannel is only for interlining if I use a main fabric that doesn't seem warm enough, so it would still have a silky lining for ease of wearing, otherwise yes I could see the sleeves being an issue like you describe!

Found lovely wool blend meltons in the market for £4p/m, nothing more than 3m though so I need to go back later to see if there's any longer pieces in.
The other option is a drapey mottled grey 100% wool from the fabric shop rather than the market, £9.50p/m and would possibly need interlining because it's not very thick. There's definitely plenty of it though.
So although I love the rainbow weave wool I think it might be a bit too expensive for this project because I need so much of it and there are other cheaper options available.

Pinkstar

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #13 on: October 25, 2018, 12:12:37 PM »
@Sonatine  lol sorry that will teach me for speed reading  0_0

SkoutSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2018, 17:16:59 PM »
Minerva have a good selection of wool and wool blend coatings, some more competitively priced than others though.

https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric&type=Coating&sort=latest&page=1&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=Sub-Carousel-2