The Sewing Place

Winter coat

Esme866

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #15 on: October 26, 2018, 03:36:40 AM »
I think the McCall's pattern is fabulous! Nipping in a waist alteration, if needed, is incredibly simple.

Always best to remember those 50's styles were designed to be worn with an extremely torturous girdle or corset.

To save money, I bought an 80/20 wool/poly blend when I took my first tailoring course. BIG mistake! 100% wool is so much easier to work with - though many overcoat weights are often 90/10 wool/nylon these days.

I'd also stay away from stripes for this first project. I find mottled colors especially easy to work with. They can be quite forgiving.

Morgan

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #16 on: October 26, 2018, 09:47:34 AM »
Really useful articles plus a couple of excellent tutorials under the Key Topics heading on the right hand side links bar -
The Great Coat Sew Along






Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #17 on: October 26, 2018, 11:44:06 AM »
Thanks @Morgan that looks so helpful!

Going off the pattern sizing I have the exact measurements of a size - so in theory it should fit but I'll make a mock up anyway to be sure because of not knowing how much ease they've allowed at various places.

Also I bought my fabric today! From the market, my inner bargain hunter kicked in and reminded me that I'm a student haha. It's a reversible wool blend, bright blue on one side and navy on the other. I love both of them so deciding which to use might be tricky. Navy seems more practical but the bright blue would be so cheerful when it's miserable out. I might use one for the main coat and the other for the cuffs and collar (I'm going for view B with the large shawl collar). The piece was 6m so I bought it all, and it was only £4p/m. It didn't photograph very well, the colour is closest to the first photo but slightly deeper. The close up doesn't have the right colour at all but it shows the slight texture.
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Nevis5

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #18 on: October 26, 2018, 12:46:07 PM »
Nice colour, @Sonatine!  and what a bargain!!  Lucky you having somewhere close you can buy fabrics from like that.

And good luck on the coach tonight with your sewing machine! Wow, you must have strong arms  :D :sew: !

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2018, 13:26:53 PM »
 @Nevis5 thanks! I've managed to escape carrying the machine because a friend has offered me hers for while I'm back, which is good because the fabric weighs a lot and fills my cabin-luggage sized suitcase, I'm not sure I could juggle both on public transport. It's not too bad carrying it normally though, it's an Elna Lotus so it doesn't weigh a huge amount.

toileandtrouble

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #20 on: October 26, 2018, 23:37:59 PM »
Gorgeous colour!  Hope you get it made before the bitter weather kicks in.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #21 on: October 27, 2018, 10:28:39 AM »
Some thoughts and questions now that I have the pattern in my hands -
1) The collar is cut as one piece with the centre front pieces, so I can't use a contrasting fabric or the other side of the main fabric for it.
2) The whole thing is interlined - my fabric is fairly heavy and warm already so what should I use for this? The requirements helpfully just say "interlining fabrics".
3) There is no reference to interfacing, only a front facing that is identical to the front sections and is cut from the main fabric. In fact there is no tailoring at all. Is it best to leave it like this or to add interfacing?
4) The instructions for the buttonholes are left off of the English instructions but are in the Spanish ones. It is the last step and just says "make buttonholes at the marks". I was going to do them by hand as I'm using an unfamiliar machine, I've read it's better to do them earlier in the construction but the facing won't be attached then. There's also no interfacing to stabalise them which I would have thought was important, any ideas what I should do?

Thank you to everyone who has been replying, this is much less daunting knowing that there are people far more knowledgable and experienced than me helping!

BrendaP

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #22 on: October 27, 2018, 11:12:02 AM »
It's along time since I made anything as complex as a proper winter coat, but I'd say that if the underlining is more for stability than warmth then a lightweight, but fairly closely woven cotton should be enough.  Maybe craft cotton or even sheeting, but make sure it gets a fairly hot machine wash to pre-shrink it.

I think that if it was me making this I would use small pieces of iron-on interfacing applied to the interlining where the buttons and buttonholes are to go.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Ploshkin

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #23 on: October 27, 2018, 11:53:18 AM »
I think I would definitely interface the fronts and collar using something that is not too stiff.  I'm not sure I would underline but can't really say without seeing the fabric you are using.

Were you wanting to do bound buttonholes or hand sewn buttonholes?  If you do bound ones then you need to do them early on in the process then an aperture is cut in the facing, the edges turned under and hand sewn round the buttonhole.

If you are hand sewing the buttonholes have a look at this video by the Yorkshire Tailor.  I've done a lot of hand sewn buttonholes in the past but still found it very useful.
Life's too short for ironing.

Popeye09

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #24 on: October 27, 2018, 14:57:26 PM »
I have previously marked on buttonhole positions with a bit of basting thread and then tried then out the positioning with safety pins before cutting them once the coat is made. I've often wanted to shift them about a smidge for the actual hang of the finished thing, so maybe that's a bonus of doing them later on?

(If it coincides with snooker on the telly, I'm always happy. I reckon one hand-sewn buttonhole per frame is a good speed!)

wrenkins

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #25 on: October 27, 2018, 15:23:29 PM »
(If it coincides with snooker on the telly, I'm always happy. I reckon one hand-sewn buttonhole per frame is a good speed!)
Depends who's playing.  ;)
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

DaisyChain

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #26 on: October 27, 2018, 15:31:57 PM »
Sonatine, reading about your coat plans has made me want to get my sewing machine out again and make a Winter’s coat. (I haven’t done much of anything at all since March because of health problems).

I’ve made two coats in the past, one was the Lisette for Butterick B6385 and last year I made the Silvia coatigan by Schnitten.  I’m not familiar with the pattern you’re going to use and am intrigued that it says the whole thing is interlined. I interlined both of my coats but for different reasons.

B6385 is quite structured and the wool I used was also structured so I only interlined the ‘body’ of the coat for extra warmth. I used winceyette which I sewed to each individual front and back satin lining piece before I constructed the lining. I didn’t interline the sleeve lining. I then sewed the finished lining to the finished outer coat as per the instructions. 

For the coatigan I interlined almost ALL of it but this was because the fabric was a boucle that needed to be stabilised. Again I used winceyette but this time I sewed it to each individual outer coat piece before construction. I didn’t interline the front facings; instead I used a black iron on interfacing to give the fabric stability and structure. Once I’d made the coat I then lined it.

Not sure if any of that helps you but basically what I’m saying is think about why you want to interline your coat and how it might affect the finished appearance. 

Also, on the B6385 I used iron on interfacing on the front facings and on the collar. Like you, I am surprised that your coat pattern doesn’t suggest something similar. So another thought might be, interfacing, interlining, lining....these terms all sound so similar, might there be typo on your pattern???

Anyway, good luck with your coat, really pleased I read this thread. I bought a pdf for the Oslo coat pattern by Tessuti a while back so I think I might just go and print it out.  :) :) :)

Happy sewing
 
 

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #27 on: October 27, 2018, 16:08:07 PM »
@DaisyChain I'm so glad that you found this thread too! Thank you for the advice on interlining and it's made me so happy that this has encouraged you to sew again, especially since I only decided to make my coat after encouragement from people on this forum. That pattern is gorgeous and it looks so cosy.

I think I'm going to go for interlining with cotton flannel for warmth after all, the weather today has made me realise that the finished coat will never be too warm. The pattern shows it cut for all of the pieces (except facings and linings) and then sewn to the main fabric and treated as one piece, so I'm going to follow that and see how it goes. Plus fusible interfacing to stabilise the collar, pocket edges and buttonholes even though it's omitted from the pattern.

I was thinking hand sewn buttonholes not bound, that's definitely beyond my capabilities. In which case I'll leave them until last to check the placement, thanks for that tip @Popeye09 

Iminei

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #28 on: October 27, 2018, 17:10:54 PM »
Really looking forward to some pics on this ... then I can commission you to make a replica of my favorite coat of all time ever, which is sadly like all my favourite things, falling apart :(

Cmon @Sonatine  pics please?
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #29 on: October 27, 2018, 17:47:21 PM »
@Iminei there's nothing interesting to take photos of yet! Today and tomorrow are going to be spent cutting and fitting, but I'll add pics as soon as I have something resembling a coat haha

It's taking a mammoth 15m of fabric overall, so if I disappear I've probably drowned in it  :fabric: