The Sewing Place

Winter coat

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #60 on: November 07, 2018, 14:09:05 PM »
@Francesca in the one pictured it's the same pattern piece for the main fabric, interlining and lining, so it's definitely my error not theirs as it worked the first two times I cut it.

@Ploshkin Yes I did cut it double but both pieces have the same distortion - all six main body lining pieces are distorted in exactly the same way. That's why it's confusing me so much


Francesca

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #61 on: November 07, 2018, 15:15:12 PM »
That is really bizarre.

I'd probably just construct the lining as you have it and put it in, but leave the lining and wool outer as separate at the bottom of the coat and hem the lining a little shorter (this is a perfectly acceptable way to line a coat and is popular in a lot of older vintage coats I've found so it may fit your aesthetic! It doesn't look like enough of a distortion to cause real problems.
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toileandtrouble

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #62 on: November 07, 2018, 16:39:57 PM »
Looks like the fabric got pulled off grain on the first one and then was off for all of them,  Once unpinned the fabric sprang back to the straight.  The tiniest dart at the waist on the long side would pull it back towards the pattern.  You'd have almost a seam around the waist, but you could stitch a ribbon around the lot when they were joined up.  Grainlines would still be a bit out on the skirt sections but it would be better than having a gap along one front edge and too  much on the other.
The bottom hem will also need levelling, but not very much.
« Last Edit: November 08, 2018, 11:51:19 AM by toileandtrouble »

toileandtrouble

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #63 on: November 18, 2018, 15:28:04 PM »
@Sonatine   How is the coat going?  You've made a great job of it so far, love to see the next stage, when you have time (and if you are a student, it might well be too busy with the occasional lecture/essay/tutorial).  I've bought some wool for a winter coat but not had enough time yet to organise the pattern alterations. You are well ahead of me! Hope you are enjoying it.

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #64 on: November 19, 2018, 11:01:42 AM »
@toileandtrouble very slow progress now - unfortunately uni is taking up a large portion of my time and the last seam I did (front facing to side lining) had to be unpicked so my motivation is lacking somewhat. Having said that, the bitter wind we've been having recently is a good motivator! I'm hoping to get the assembly completed this week and be on to the hand finishing next week. I hope your coat goes well  :snip:

(I've also somehow managed to get a second coat planned and have bought fabric + B6385 for that, but I'm not starting to even think about that properly until this one is finished. It's going to be a Christmas present so I might wait for term to finish before I start it.)

SkoutSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #65 on: November 19, 2018, 12:12:12 PM »
Another really good coat pattern, I like it.

toileandtrouble

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #66 on: November 19, 2018, 12:50:57 PM »
I like that pattern, rather like the one I am planning, BUT it has that back yoke, and the choice of a funnel neck and A,B,C,D pattern pieces.  Wish I had seen this one before!
Sonatine, I also have a second (secret) pile of fabric. No-one else in my house knows about the navy melton and teal lining. Sssh.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #67 on: November 19, 2018, 21:32:48 PM »
I'm planning on starting my teal coat this week.
I keep not getting it started, I think I am a little intimidated.

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #68 on: November 21, 2018, 17:02:17 PM »
@SewRuthieSews I hope your coat goes well! Your fabrics are such beautiful colours

The wool went together so easily but the lining is just problem after problem. I need to push through now though because I'm freezing without a coat haha! There's a limit to how many times I can unpick and redo each seam so I'm starting to ignore the issues if they're not massive, and I'll just have to never let anyone see the lining...

Acorn

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #69 on: November 21, 2018, 17:03:53 PM »
I was just going to say that people will only ever get a quick flash of the lining.   :)
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #70 on: November 21, 2018, 17:18:24 PM »
@SewRuthieSews I hope your coat goes well! Your fabrics are such beautiful colours
@Sonatine, thanks I have now found the pattern, and thinking today might be the day to lay the fabric out for cutting.
The wool went together so easily but the lining is just problem after problem. I need to push through now though because I'm freezing without a coat haha! There's a limit to how many times I can unpick and redo each seam so I'm starting to ignore the issues if they're not massive, and I'll just have to never let anyone see the lining...
Lining is mostly there to make the coat easier for you to get on and off, so I wouldn't worry too much about it not being perfect. I have in mind the lining I want to use but I'm not quite sure where I've put it! It is a darker teal satin, heavy and luxurious so I'm looking forward to having it as the lining though it might need lots of pins when sewing it together.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #71 on: November 21, 2018, 22:25:35 PM »
I finally cut out the main fabric for the coat.

As expected I did not have enough of the darker (and scratchier fabric) so have cut the facings, pockets and belt from the lighter wool. In the design below the green represents the darker teal fabric and the blue represents the lighter one.

Not done lining yet and will need to fuse interfacing and etc but at least it is finally started.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #72 on: November 22, 2018, 09:29:51 AM »
Have now found the lining fabric, but the pattern does not have pieces for a lining so will need to work them out from the other pieces. I have a book on linings so know what I need to do. I might start on the coat construction first.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #73 on: November 22, 2018, 21:19:34 PM »
I threaded up the machines and have started sewing the coat. Unlike knits it needs pressing as I go and I am really enjoying the smell wool makes when you steam press it - heavenly!
I've not been too well and get tired easily so need to do it in short chunks of time. Hopefully a bit more tomorrow.

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #74 on: November 22, 2018, 23:23:40 PM »
It suddenly feels like the end is in sight! Only attaching the sleeve lining at the cuffs, hemming the lining, and buttonholes left to go now. The hand finishing is my favourite part, although fours hours have disappeared without me noticing while I was hemming the outer layer. I'm also considering topstitching around the front edge and collar because they just won't behave no matter how much I press them.