The Sewing Place

Winter coat

toileandtrouble

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #60 on: November 19, 2018, 12:50:57 PM »
I like that pattern, rather like the one I am planning, BUT it has that back yoke, and the choice of a funnel neck and A,B,C,D pattern pieces.  Wish I had seen this one before!
Sonatine, I also have a second (secret) pile of fabric. No-one else in my house knows about the navy melton and teal lining. Sssh.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #61 on: November 19, 2018, 21:32:48 PM »
I'm planning on starting my teal coat this week.
I keep not getting it started, I think I am a little intimidated.

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #62 on: November 21, 2018, 17:02:17 PM »
@SewRuthieSews I hope your coat goes well! Your fabrics are such beautiful colours

The wool went together so easily but the lining is just problem after problem. I need to push through now though because I'm freezing without a coat haha! There's a limit to how many times I can unpick and redo each seam so I'm starting to ignore the issues if they're not massive, and I'll just have to never let anyone see the lining...

Acorn

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #63 on: November 21, 2018, 17:03:53 PM »
I was just going to say that people will only ever get a quick flash of the lining.   :)
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #64 on: November 21, 2018, 17:18:24 PM »
@SewRuthieSews I hope your coat goes well! Your fabrics are such beautiful colours
@Sonatine, thanks I have now found the pattern, and thinking today might be the day to lay the fabric out for cutting.
The wool went together so easily but the lining is just problem after problem. I need to push through now though because I'm freezing without a coat haha! There's a limit to how many times I can unpick and redo each seam so I'm starting to ignore the issues if they're not massive, and I'll just have to never let anyone see the lining...
Lining is mostly there to make the coat easier for you to get on and off, so I wouldn't worry too much about it not being perfect. I have in mind the lining I want to use but I'm not quite sure where I've put it! It is a darker teal satin, heavy and luxurious so I'm looking forward to having it as the lining though it might need lots of pins when sewing it together.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #65 on: November 21, 2018, 22:25:35 PM »
I finally cut out the main fabric for the coat.

As expected I did not have enough of the darker (and scratchier fabric) so have cut the facings, pockets and belt from the lighter wool. In the design below the green represents the darker teal fabric and the blue represents the lighter one.

Not done lining yet and will need to fuse interfacing and etc but at least it is finally started.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #66 on: November 22, 2018, 09:29:51 AM »
Have now found the lining fabric, but the pattern does not have pieces for a lining so will need to work them out from the other pieces. I have a book on linings so know what I need to do. I might start on the coat construction first.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #67 on: November 22, 2018, 21:19:34 PM »
I threaded up the machines and have started sewing the coat. Unlike knits it needs pressing as I go and I am really enjoying the smell wool makes when you steam press it - heavenly!
I've not been too well and get tired easily so need to do it in short chunks of time. Hopefully a bit more tomorrow.

Sonatine

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #68 on: November 22, 2018, 23:23:40 PM »
It suddenly feels like the end is in sight! Only attaching the sleeve lining at the cuffs, hemming the lining, and buttonholes left to go now. The hand finishing is my favourite part, although fours hours have disappeared without me noticing while I was hemming the outer layer. I'm also considering topstitching around the front edge and collar because they just won't behave no matter how much I press them.

Elnnina

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #69 on: November 23, 2018, 10:23:37 AM »
This is where a 'clapper' comes in very useful.  However all is not lost, and a much cheaper way of doing this is by using a wooden rolling pin, or a wooden flat meat tenderiser. whacking the troublesome seams as in the collar edges and front facing edges into submission is very satisfying, and used in conjunction with lots of steam the wood absorbs the moisture whilst the weight of holding this in position flattens.

Now if you do not have a wooden rolling pin or meat tenderises, go and look in a charity shop, another alternative for the rolling pin is a piece of banister railing found in a DIY shop.

SkoutSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #70 on: November 23, 2018, 10:39:50 AM »
A rolling pin!  Genius!  Thanks @Elnnina . I'll use that.

Looking forward to seeing these two winter coats. @Sonatine you're nearly there.  @SewRuthieSews take it easy and get properly better soon.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #71 on: November 23, 2018, 12:01:48 PM »
I've now cut out the lining pieces from a dark teal satin (like a navy only greener) and have interfaced the facing pieces. My coat has quite a relaxed silhouette and minimal shaping so hoping to make a lovely soft coat which will be warm to wear.

I am also thinking of a detachable hood that would button onto the inside collar. If I have the buttons on the coat collar I can always add them afterwards, and have the buttonholes on the hood. Small flat buttons would not feel noticable.

Elnnina

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #72 on: November 23, 2018, 12:19:43 PM »
Whilst having my shower I had another thought Sonatine regarding your collar/facing edges.  I was taught to press them open after sewing as far as was possible, and then from the right side to roll the edge between your finger and thumb to get the seam right on the edge and then to tack as close to the edge as possible using smallish stitches, then press with wet cloth and hot iron, and now that clappers etc. are more readily available this is where they come in to play.  Okay once done you might have a line  where the tacking stitches were, but another pressing with damp cloth and hot iron, even steam iron should remove any marks.  Once you have tamed the edges, you can then topstitch.

Now from memory I believe Just Pottering bought herself a Clapper earlier this year - by the way they are not cheap but such a useful tool to have in the sewing box.  A few years ago a lot of people were buying something called  a June Tailor Tailor's Board with or without it's covers, and this tool has a multitude of edges for all sorts of pressing even right into the most awkward part of your sewing.  June Tailor passed away a few years ago now and eventually her company stopped doing these Tailor's Boards, however they do come up from time to time on e-bay and the like but they are expensive.  Now again from memory I believe Morgan here on TSP had one made for her here in the UK.

Glad you like the rolling pin idea ScoutSews, I was given a Pyrex rolling pin as an engagement present a very long time ago which I still use for pastry making, however I found a couple of rounded end wooden rolling pins in my local charity shop which I think is even better than a wooden rolling pin with handles.  Needless to say I keep my wooden rolling pins and wooden mallet here in my sewing room!!!  In fact I also use the wooden mallet for hitting the buttonhole chisel when cutting open buttonholes.  This mallet has never been used in the kitchen.

toileandtrouble

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #73 on: November 23, 2018, 12:43:46 PM »
Clappers are the posh version. Any piece of clean plain wood that is not oily/resinous would take up the heat just as well.  I have used the edge of a wooden chopping board to good effect.  Just hold it on to the hot fabric for a while.  The fabric has to cool to keep its shape.  Doh, late to the party again. Someone else has already covered this.  Must read back, must read back.....
You can also press the seam along the wooden rolling pin, it stops the seam allowance from marking the main fabric.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2018, 12:49:56 PM by toileandtrouble »
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

SkoutSews

Re: Winter coat
« Reply #74 on: November 23, 2018, 12:51:28 PM »
One of the points at the Harrogate show talk yesterday was the importance of pressing and associated tools. I would never have thought of the rolling pin, but it is identical to one of the tools shown by the presenter. My 35+ year old plain wood cylinder type pin is ideal for the purpose. No varnish, and it has been washed so many times that there won't be any resin left. Thanks for the tip.