Advice on piecing waistband

[SkoutSews]

I'm making up Burda 8765 , a simple straight skirt, in a light-checked brown Harris tweed which I got from @Fiona M this time last year. So far, so good, but Harris tweed is woven on a narrow loom and is only 30" wide.

Once upon a time, this wouldn't have been a problem. Now, however, with the passing of the years and enjoyment of the good things in life    I can't cut the waistband out of the width of fabric without piecing it. The lengthwise offcuts from the skirt front and backs aren't long enough or wide enough to get the waistband out either. There is an underlap for the button fastening and a centre back zip.

Presumably I cut the pieces so that the seams match the skirt side seams and the checks match. Is there anything else I need to do? Will there be a problem with having seams in the waistband? I could buy a coordinating fabric to make a one-piece, seamless band if I have to, but that will delay finishing my skirt.

It's a good pattern, BTW, and I'll post pictures and more info when it's done.

[Ploshkin]

Theres no issue with a seam in a waistband, I always have a centre back seam in a trouser waistband so that I can curve it to fit my hollow back.  The only problem I could forsee with seams in the waistband lining up with the side seams is that you would end up with some very thick bits at the sides with  the extra layers of fabric.   As you can't have a centre back seam how about a seam each side halfway between the side seam and centre back?  If you can match the pattern the seams shouldn't show, and no one should be peering that closely at your waistband anyway.  In fact you could probably get away with just one seam somewhere a bit out of sight.

[SkoutSews]

Thanks Ploshkin, that's very helpful. I've been overthinking this. You're quite right that the seams disappear in the 'bouncy' tweed and, in any case, the waistband won't be on show. It's also a good point that having the seams coinciding might make for a bulky, ugly join.

Onward and upward!

[Greybird]

I have used V1415 to make several pairs of trousers and the waistband is very narrow - rather like binding. This suits me well because I am very short-waisted. I don't see why it couldn't be done that way with other patterns and even done with bias binding if fabric is in short supply.

[Manuela]

@SkoutSews do you want/need a waistband? You could stabilise the waist edge and either finish it with a facing or use the lining as a facing.
Being shortwaisted *waves at Greybird* this is how I finish my skirts.

[SkoutSews]

Thanks again for the ideas. Indeed lots of skirts are made without waistbands now and I've had a couple of RTW ones like that. A waistband seems to suit me better though, so I'll probably go for it, particularly in the tweed. Facings would be an option for another time and a different fabric, thanks for the suggestions.

[Bodgeitandscarper]

Many, many years ago, I used to often finish skirt waists with petersham ribbon turned to the inside - is petersham still available these days?

[Esme866]

You could also make the seams in the waistband a design element - for instance two waistband seams offset to each side of the skirt side seams - depending on how you match your pattern.

I once bought a strange pair of RTW jeans that fit perfect in the front, but when I checked them out in the 3-way mirror - OMG! Eight (yes extra inches of fabric in the back. Took them home, removed the back portion of the waist, and added four 2" darts. My very critical Mom, looked at them and said, "What's weird? They fit perfect."

Extra seams can easily be design elements. But there's also the fact that most men's trousers have waist seams at each side and the back. (How I make mine). You just need to trim a bit of the bulk  and the inner band is bound or serged and not turned up and hemmed. Much simpler, less bulky install.

All kinds of options.

[SkoutSews]

@Bodgeitandscarper - Petersham is a good idea too. I hadn't thought of it. I'll bank that idea for another make, as I am keen to have a waistband on this one.

@Esme866 - I'm going for the symmetrically offset seams in the back waistband. That way, if they are visible, at least they will look balanced.

Thank you all for your thoughts and advice. What a helpful bunch you are!

[Renegade Sewist]

If you haven't stitched the waist band up yet, consider a slightly shorter stitch length and of course good back stitching on the pieced seams. My waistband would be getting a bit of extra tension, more so than the side seams. Erm, cough cough. 

[SkoutSews]

Good advice, I'll do that. I hear what you say regarding seam strain...

[Fiona M]

@SkoutSews  Great to hear that you are sewing the tweed!  I'll look forward to seein a photo.
If I recall correctly, you also bought the anonymous piece of tan tweed with the coloured check pattern?  You may like to know that I later saw some lovely jackets for sale on the Joules website in the very same fabric 

[SkoutSews]

No, I didn't buy that fabric, although I was sorely tempted.  As well as the brown Harris tweed I also took the green houndstooth piece.  I haven't yet decided what I'm going to make with that.  If I like the skirt I'm making currently, I might just make another.  Otherwise I might look for a toning fabric and make something different.

The Harris tweed labels will be sewn in.  No-one else will see them, but I'll know they're there! Pics will follow when it's finished.

[DementedFairy]

I'm with Manuela.  Waistbands are a pain in the butt, unless just a channel for soft elastic.  Why suffer the pain?  A nice petersham facing, job done.