creating a sleeve

[annierose]

Hello all!
I am making the Sadie tunic by Style Arc:
http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1005&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=45

I liked the look of the tunic but am not fussed about the twist detail on the sleeve.  The sleeve itself is cut very oddly, almost 2 'petal' shapes that create the twist detail. As I have had to alter the shoulder seams quite a lot for fitting, I think that trying to get this complicated sleeve to fit in will be disastrous!
So, I just want to set in a plain sleeve. My thought is to cut open the side seams (I am making a 'toile' with the lining fabric), spread the sleeve arc out and draw around it, then using an ordinary sleeve pattern, add in the top shape. But I am unsure how much ease to include - the armholes on the toile are quite roomy.

Can I ask for your thoughts? Many thanks in advance

[BrendaP]

Could you not start with the Sadie sleeve pattern for the shape at the top.

It's not clear where the sleeve seams go but if you cut apart the sleeve pattern so that you get a regular inside sleeve seam, then place the sleeve pattern pieces together (overlapping seam allowances if they are on the tissue) so that you get the correct shape at the top of the sleeve and then just draw the sleeve seam straight with as much tapering as you want.

[DementedFairy]

If the armholes are roomy, best fix that first.  A closer fitting armhole always gives more room to move, the last StyleArc dress I made [Winsome] needed to come in a good inch under each arm to become wearable.  It's an easy fix though!

[Francesca]

You can download a freebie sleeve from Lekala if that helps. I have drafted my own, but the curve is quite difficult.

[dolcevita]

A flexible tape measure and some tracing paper will be your friends here.

Rather than make alterations to the sleeve pattern on a fabric piece, do it on paper as it's easier to draw and make changes before any cutting goes on and you don't risk the fabric stretching out on the curve, which can happen easily.

I'd do it as follows:
1. trace out a copy of the paper pattern pieces to about 10cm below the bottom of the armhole curve
2. make sure that you transfer all notches and, most importantly, run the grainline up the entire length of your tracing.
3. cut off the seam allowance.  It's easier to add in later and makes it easier to do measurements and any alterations.
4. measure the stitching line of the armhole on the garment.  Stylearc usually mark the stitching line, so it should be easy enough to do it here.  To do this, stand the tape on its edge and walk it around the stitching line; trying to do it with the tape lying flat is difficult and likely to give an inaccurate measurement.
5. now measure the top of the sleeve pieces.
6. compare the two measurements - this will tell you how much ease there is in the sleeve cap and if you need to alter it.
7. tape together the two sleeve pieces, lining them up to match any notches or overlap.
8. where the bottom of the sleeve meets the side seam on the garment, this is where to split your sleeve to make your new version.
9. add some extra paper on the bottom of the new sleeve piece and extend it to whatever length you want the sleeve to be, making sure it's wide enough for you.

This should get you most of the way there.

[annierose]

Thank you all very much indeed.
I used a mix of these - apart from downloading the sleeve -and found it very useful. Toile finished and seems fine. Yes, Style Arc mark seam line.
I may well use the downloaded sleeve pattern in the future as they are a frequent bug bear of mine!
So, thank you all again, I keep hoping that I can be as helpful to someone else, but probably not on this forum!