The Sewing Place

Handsewn buttonhole novice

sewingj

Handsewn buttonhole novice
« on: November 23, 2018, 10:38:03 AM »
I`m about to make a jacket using this
https://www.1stforfabrics.co.uk/product/rainbow-weave-100-wool/

My machine doesn`t do good buttonholes, I`ve never made a bound buttonhole (and don`t want to start yet) so I want to handsew them.  I`ve done a fair amount of handsewing in the past - embroidery etc- so reckon I should be able to manage them.

@Ploshkin recently posted this link to a good video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLudKgoSgLA

the only problem is that the chap says he is using Gutermann gimp - which seems to be unavailable - and I don`t know what sort of thread the actual buttonhole is sew in.  Help please!

Also I didn`t really want to go to the expense of buying a punch to make a keyhole shape - so would a straight buttonhole be ok?  The fabric is quite "busy" so I don`t think the finer points of the buttonhole will be noticeable anyway

Ploshkin

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2018, 10:46:51 AM »
You can get gimp online @sewingj I can't do links on my kindle but I'll have a look when I switch the computer on.  I got some buttonhole thread from Kenton Trimmings who are very good for tailoring stuff.
Life's too short for ironing.

Popeye09

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2018, 11:02:00 AM »
Kenton's do silk buttonhole thread, that's what it looks to me like they're using to sew the buttonhole in your video. But they don't do the gimp I think. Is this company any use for that? (I haven't used them myself)

https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/threads/button-hole-gimp/button-hole-gimp/

(I've just noticed they have a menu of buttonhole silk colours too. No more cross-referencing a colour chart scavenged from the recesses of the internet against Kenton's massive drop-down list of numbers, wahoo!)

toileandtrouble

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2018, 11:05:38 AM »
The gimp thread is just  a very thick thread to give the buttonholes more definition.  I have a selection of colours of that thick thread in the picture I saw on Google, and i think the navy would be ideal for your fabric (looked at that when I bought mine)  They are large bobbins, I'd be happy to send you 5 metres or so, just let me know the colour you decide and your address. Gutermann buttonhole thread is readily available.
Mine is not as thick as some of the other pictures of gimp thread. You are still welcome to some, but it is only roughly twice the thickness of regular buttonhole thread, it looks like what is described as 12s
« Last Edit: November 23, 2018, 11:18:42 AM by toileandtrouble »
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Ploshkin

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2018, 12:15:40 PM »
Me again.  Big computer is having a pwdi this morning.
I remember now, that although buttonhole gimp can be obtained it comes in big reels which makes it rather pricy for a couple of buttonholes.  You can substitute it with any thick thread or twist a,thread to get the thickness you want.
Kenton trimmings do Gutermann buttonhole silk twist for hand sewing which comes on little reels for £1.50 (probably twice that for postage).  However if you need other supplies - interfacing, shoulder pads etc. I would recommend them.  I have collected bits together to make a jacket for DH and I bought a 'tailored jacket pack' which had everything I needed including buttonhole silk.
Life's too short for ironing.

sewingj

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2018, 13:06:20 PM »
Thanks very much - I know what I am looking for now!
I`ve also found this video telling me how to make my own gimp so when I get the buttonhole silk I will have a bash at doing that
https://notebook.historical-tailoring.com/2012/01/hand-tailored-buttonhole-tutorial/

Esme866

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2018, 14:45:50 PM »
Making your own gimp from the buttonhole silk is definitely most cost efficient.

As for cutting the shape, you can nip a triangular shape into the end in place of buying a round punch. With most overcoats, the extra space is needed to allow for the shank of the button to lay properly in the hole.

Here in the states, silk buttonhole twist is difficult to source in small amounts. Most is sold on large cones like the gimp. (I've only found small cards from vendors for which I need nothing else).  I discovered a local hobby shop stocks silk beading thread on small cards, in 2 different weights and 3 colors - white, black and beige. I'm set for a bit as a result. And if I need a special color, I'll spend $3 on a permanent ink art pen and dye the white or beige to get the color I need.

I do miss the days of being able to run to one of six lical fabric stores to buy what I need!

Greybird

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #7 on: November 23, 2018, 20:54:07 PM »
Upholstery suppliers have linen thread which is used to handsew panels on with. This might work for you.

BrendaP

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2018, 10:23:46 AM »
My elderly Singer "Sewing Book"  suggests pearl cotton size 8 but several strands of buttonhole twist twisted together would also work.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

dolcevita

Re: Handsewn buttonhole novice
« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2018, 12:23:42 PM »
If you have a branch of Dunelm near you, give them a ring and see if they stock Seta Royale silk thread.  It's in small reels, gorgeously glossy and makes very nice hand worked buttonholes.  I've bought it from there a number of times - it's usually in the section where they sell furnishing fabric and other habby.