The Sewing Place

Replicating a COS dress

Manuela

Replicating a COS dress
« on: November 25, 2018, 05:34:11 AM »
Yesterday, before going to the movies I went in the COS store and bought a dress. Me buying a dress hadn’t happened in decades....

I like the style so much that I want to re-create a pattern - so today I indulge in applied geometry, starting out with my loose fitting dress sloper.
The lining of the original dress has a bust dart, this seems to be pivoted out to create the volume and drape at the bottom...

Here it is, I got it in black (yelow shows the details better). The model is 1.81m, I’m 9cm shorter, but it’s still on the short side. Hence, I lenghtened the lining with a strip of fabric. The dress is now 5cm (2”) longer.

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« Last Edit: November 25, 2018, 08:24:36 AM by Iminei »

DementedFairy

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2018, 14:53:02 PM »
oooh now that's intriguing!  It would need a considerably lower [and asymmetric?] neckline to fully work for me personally, but that hem is great
C'est moi!

Tamnymore

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2018, 16:06:17 PM »
Yes I love interesting hems like this one. Can't wait to see your version @Manuela.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #3 on: November 25, 2018, 17:11:40 PM »
That looks very interesting - would love to know how that hem is done.  But is it just me that's cringing slightly at that puckered front seam?

Manuela

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #4 on: November 25, 2018, 22:05:36 PM »
Got the pattern done yesterday and cut a muslin without the tucks on the wearer’s right front. Once I got fit and shape right, I’ll work on the tucks.
I have a Nani Iro double gauze cotton the wotl be ideal for it.
What I dis so far:
- pivoted the bust dart to the bottom to create either gathering or pleats there (it’s pleats on the original)
- slashed and spread the back open the same amount (will gather is there)
- shortened the lining 7cm
- lenghtened the fashion fabric 7cm
So, basically the hem is either pleated, gathered or both and then sewn onto the lining to pull it up and create this bubble effect.
The pattern pieces for the fashion fabric are ginormous  :devil: this is a 3 yard dress. The original also has pocketses  ;)

Manuela

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2018, 23:46:18 PM »
The muslin is fitted and I’m happy with it. I cut the dress in the Nani Iro cotton double gauze mentioned above.

Picture of the gorgeous fabric

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Given the ginormous hem width I had to cut it with a centre fron seam. That has the advantage that the whole print looks more anstract than floral. I’m going to line it with Bemberg Ambience - will get it finished over the holidays with a bit of luck.

toileandtrouble

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2018, 00:07:17 AM »
Sounds like a lot of work but what a lovely fabric, sounds right for your climate. I loves pocketses
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

BrendaP

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2018, 09:30:39 AM »
I'm sure yours will look a lot better than the original, that blue print looks to be just right - and don't forget to sew that CF seam properly and also press it!
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Nevis5

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2018, 13:06:37 PM »
Wow, what a fabulous colour, and we all know the results will be equally gorgeous  :D  can't wait to see it xx

Manuela

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2019, 03:56:22 AM »
Here how I arrived at the pattern. I used my TNT loose fitting dress pattern and pivoted and pivoted and pivoted some more.

First up the lining pattern, neckhole shape and armholes all tried and tested.

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Here is the back (fashion fabric pattern underneath the lining pattern)

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Wearer’s left front (without drape) - in the first dress I gathered the hem onto the lining, in the next one I’ll do an inverted box pleat

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Wearer’s right front (with drape)

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Will upload pictures of the finished dress later.

« Last Edit: January 04, 2019, 03:59:00 AM by Manuela »

Manuela

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2019, 11:55:21 AM »
And the first dress, I finished and wore it on New Year’s Day. The biggest change to the original I made was that the actual dress is longer than the draped part. Given my age, I rather show leg at a small part of the hem than all around  ;)
I’ll reduce them hem width for the next version by around 20cm to make it more consumption friendly. That won’t affect the style/shape of the dress.

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SkoutSews

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2019, 12:50:47 PM »
Lovely! So much nicer than the Cos original.

Efemera

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2019, 13:04:09 PM »
Wonderful dress...

toileandtrouble

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2019, 16:17:28 PM »
 :devil:Great job Manuela, but I could never wear a dress like that.  Reminds me too much of the time I made a dress in a very very light floaty fabric. So light in fact, that I did not realise I came out of the toilet with the skirt tucked into the waist of my knickers.    :| :|
« Last Edit: January 04, 2019, 16:59:29 PM by toileandtrouble »
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Manuela

Re: Replicating a COS dress
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2019, 19:16:39 PM »
It’s lined with Bemberg Ambience, that makes an ‘incident’ like that impossible (the hem width before pleating/gathering is 2.5m).