The Sewing Place

Patterns: tight back advice


Patterns: tight back advice
« on: December 06, 2018, 02:16:16 AM »
Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone could help diagnose something? I've had a bit of a "google" and while there are many instructions of different adjustments, there are so many I'm not sure entirely what I'm after!

The recurring problem seems to be that often things seem to fit okay if I stand still and have plenty of ease across the chest and generally have good movement in the arms, except when I move my arms across my body in which case it pulls tight across the back, straight across between the middle of the armholes. I'm sure it means I have terrible posture of some description but it doesn't necessarily seem to be a problem up and downwise (it's not like hems pull up at the back or anything), but more acrosswise. I know when previously attempting (unsuccessfully!) to draft a body block there was a significantly bigger difference between my shoulder-to-shoulder measurements in the back and front than seemed to be expected.

Does that ring a bell with anyone to what this fitting issue is called so I can work out which of the myriad of pattern adjustment techniques I ought to have a look at? Many thanks for any help!  :D


Re: Patterns: tight back advice
« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2018, 08:49:48 AM »
I have the opposite problem. Usually there is too much fabric across the back for me. On simple patterns where the pattern piece is lined up on the foldline I deal with this by just placing it outside the foldline. I would think that you could do this in reverse. You have to remember to do the same with facings, yoke, collar etc. but it works quite well. Where you have more shaping on the back of course it wouldn't be quite so easy.


Re: Patterns: tight back advice
« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2018, 09:44:44 AM »
Like Greybird, I have the opposite problem and nearly always have to take fabric out of centre back.  I've checked my 'Fit for Real People' book (my go-to for all pattern adjustments) and it suggests three methods for altering for a broad back. The descriptions are from the book.

If you're 'only slightly broad', redraw the armhole to get a little more width, up to 1/4 inch each side, giving half an inch overall.
If you're 'quite broad',cut and spread the entire back.  The illustration shows the pattern cut vertically and spread 1/4 to 3/4 inch.  This gives more room in the shoulders and waist area too.
If you're 'broad only in the upper back', the pattern is cut vertically from the shoulder to just below the armhole, then a slightly angled cut is made to the side seam. The whole armhole block is moved out and the side seam trued.

That all sounds more complicated when written down than it does when looking at the illustrations in the book, but I hope it helps a bit.


Re: Patterns: tight back advice
« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2018, 17:53:15 PM »
I haven't watched this short video but it may be useful to you
Life's too short for ironing.