The Sewing Place

The fur jacket begins...

Francesca

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #30 on: January 07, 2019, 22:43:34 PM »
Would I need to do the whole collar by hand? I feel like with the faux fur it would be a nightmare as it's so hard to see. But if it's partial I think I can close it up.

I'm also staring at the pattern and I'm thinking it's wrong...

The pattern says:

Quote
NB: when cutting lining front yoke/lower front, do not take into account front bands width.

It's the same front piece used for lining and outer, so when I cut the lining I just folded away the extension. However now I'm thinking the pattern is wrong and that it actually needs more removed from the lining. The whole extension piece would need to be removed... whereas I've just folded away the extension so the lining just goes up to the point where it folds down the front edge... if that makes sense.

That's not what the pattern says... which is a nightmare because I've sewn a lovely pocket but I don't think I can just cut the excess off *cries*
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 4.4m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Manuela

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #31 on: January 08, 2019, 03:04:45 AM »
@Francesca, no need to do the 'whole collar' by hand. Sew one side of the collar (ideally the upper collar) by machine onto the neck hole, then attach the other side by hand (fold it if it's not too thick, you could also overlock and then only fold the overlock seam).
The lining piece should be:
    front
-  facing
+ seam allowance (of facing and lining, so 2cm if you work with a 1cm seam allowance)
= lining

Francesca

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #32 on: January 08, 2019, 09:54:50 AM »
The lining piece should be:
    front
-  facing
+ seam allowance (of facing and lining, so 2cm if you work with a 1cm seam allowance)
= lining

Yup this is where I've gone wrong. My lining is the full front, up to the fold line. It doesn't subtract the facing. I just didn't think enough when cutting it ("when cutting lining front yoke/lower front, do not take into account front bands width" - but I took this as just not including the extension of the facing on the front, not also subtracting it).

I'm going to have to lay my fronts out again and subtract the facing less the seam allowance - and hope there is enough clearance for my zip pocket to be unaffected by the subtraction.

@Francesca, no need to do the 'whole collar' by hand. Sew one side of the collar (ideally the upper collar) by machine onto the neck hole, then attach the other side by hand (fold it if it's not too thick, you could also overlock and then only fold the overlock seam).

Do you mean I should attach the collars together along their top edge, points, and sides, just leaving the bottom edge of one open so it can be folded up and stitched? (fabric is hard to make a press line but I know what you mean). So the only handstitching I would need to do would be to stitch down the collar into the lining at the back of the neck?
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 4.4m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Manuela

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #33 on: January 08, 2019, 13:07:46 PM »
Do you mean I should attach the collars together along their top edge, points, and sides, just leaving the bottom edge of one open so it can be folded up and stitched? (fabric is hard to make a press line but I know what you mean). So the only handstitching I would need to do would be to stitch down the collar into the lining at the back of the neck?

@Francesca, yes, exactly.... collar sewn together at sides and top edge. Then you have the part that goes onto the neckhole upen. Sew one side onto the neckhole by machine, then attach the other (usually the under collar) by hand. Any chance you could post a picture of the collar pattern? Just to be sure it’s what I think it is.

Manuela

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #34 on: January 08, 2019, 13:19:50 PM »
Ok, no need for a picture, I got a screen shot of the pattern.

So, yes - sew collar as I said above. It does look like there is an overlap at the front to allow for a button closure, right?

That needs to be taken into account. You need to sew the bit at the neckhole from centre front to front edge on each side. Then you decide whether tou want to sandwich the collar in by machine (and leave a bit of the sleeve seam open to bag the jacket out), or sew the collar on as I mentioned in my previous post.
Off to bed now, fire away if you have any more questions, I’ll check tomorrow morning.

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Francesca

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #35 on: January 08, 2019, 14:09:05 PM »
I've marked the foldline for the front facing on the fabric, and when I folded it back it was a little step away from the collar so yep enough for the button band.

If it helps, here are the pattern pieces created with my personal measurements.

Two collar pieces

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Front piece with extension for facing

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I cut that from fur, when I cut the lining out I cut out the following shown in red outline

Lining in red

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What I should have done

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Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 4.4m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Manuela

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #36 on: January 08, 2019, 14:53:55 PM »
Yep, all clear - very similar to the screenshot. That little ‘step’ is tour overlap, the collar goes from centre front to centre front - so you need to close that litte area between centre front and front edge.
Hope all is clear regarding facing and lining now, and you manage to progress.

Francesca

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #37 on: January 08, 2019, 15:21:27 PM »
OK, thanks so much for your help Manuela. I'll draft a new front lining piece based on subtraction of the facing (less seam allowance) and cut the lining fronts to match. Hopefully the zip pocket is far enough into the garment to not be an issue. If it is, I'll have to recut the fronts - I think I've got enough fabric.
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 4.4m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Francesca

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #38 on: January 09, 2019, 12:18:47 PM »
Spent most of last night unpicking. I constructed the collar again properly and sewed the outer edge to the back of the jacket with the inner seam ready to be hand-stitched.

I managed to cut the extra lining fabric off and just crept past the pocket - it's very close. I am going to try and pin it all together tonight. The satin shifts around so much it's hard to tell if it's OK until it's all pinned. I pinned the lining edge to the facing edge but found that the lining was too long (I was aiming for it to be 3cm shorter than the outer so I get a good turn) so will need to mark that again. But very hard as I said it moves around so much. My aim is to just get the lining equal length all along so at least if my turn-under is a little off in terms of what I want it's consistent.
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 4.4m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Manuela

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #39 on: January 09, 2019, 13:17:23 PM »
Yay, happy to hear about your progress. Good thing you never gave up  :)
I’m very much looking foward to see pictures of the jacket.

PS: If the lining shifts too much, you could tack it in with hand stitches to keep it in place. It might be quicker than having to unpick it if it shifts despite the pins. Sewing satin and faux fur together is not easy.
« Last Edit: January 09, 2019, 13:23:22 PM by Manuela »

Francesca

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #40 on: January 09, 2019, 14:42:36 PM »
Now here's an interesting question...

Let's say you had a nice piece of black velvet ribbon you intended to use to make a quick neck-hook to hang the jacket up.

Would you attach it to the back collar in such a way that when the hook is unused, the velvet side shows at the back of the neck?

Or would you attach it in such a way that when the hook is pulled up, pulled taut, the velvet side shows?
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 4.4m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

StitchinTime

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #41 on: January 09, 2019, 15:03:36 PM »
If you are attaching this to the inside of the jacket, I would attach it so that the velvet side is against your skin.
Alternatively, you could double it up so both sides are velvet.

Lachica

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #42 on: January 09, 2019, 15:30:33 PM »
I'd  do as stitchintime says.
Mary
2019 stash used so far :7.2m

Francesca

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #43 on: January 10, 2019, 15:26:04 PM »
Well I worked a fair bit more on the jacket last night and....

Somehow I've cocked it up... not sure where I went wrong with Manuela's instructions but I've ended up unable to turn the jacket through the neck opening as I've sewn it shut.



At this stage, I just don't care and will not bother with fancy bagging and will just hand stitch the bottom hem closed. I've done it plenty of times before, and the idea of ripping out all those stitches I've just done just so I can do another bit by machine just isn't worth it. I will manage, at least, to do the sleeve cuffs by machine so that's one thing.

Overall I'm very pleased with how it looks though. The collar area is pretty neat and tidy. I just need to handstitch that collar edge down, put my ribbon loop in the back and handstitch the hem and it'll be done. Oh, and button. It feels like it never really finishes!

It does look nice on. A little tight round the hips maybe when held closed but I expect knowing me I'll wear it undone all the time with a scarf.
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 4.4m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Manuela

Re: The fur jacket begins...
« Reply #44 on: January 10, 2019, 23:48:21 PM »
Well done @Francesca, don’t worry about attaching the lining at the hemby hand - first of all, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that, secondly who is going to complain about it  ;)
Btw, when you bag the lining through the neckhole, the collar goes on last.