Toggle navigation
The Sewing Place
Home
Help
Search
Calendar
Login
Register
Login
Register
×
Close
Login
Remember me
The Sewing Place
The Emporia
In the wardrobe
Hems on knit fabrics.
Support The Sewing Place from £1 a month.
« previous
next »
+
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Go Down
Hems on knit fabrics.
10 Replies
2215 Views
Tiggy
Usually to found in Fabworks
217
410
Likes Given: 266
Hems on knit fabrics.
«
on:
December 31, 2018, 11:01:59 AM »
I've just made myself a new top, out of a viscose jersey with some body. Soft and drapes well.
https://www.sewdirect.com/butterick-b6517/
It's not a complicated project, but you do need to take your time and follow the instructions carefully. I'm really pleased with it - except for the hem.
I've interfaced the hem, I've used a stretch zigzag stitch and it's turned out wavey and stretched.
Has anybody got any tips on how to avoid this happening?
Logged
Pfaff Creative 4.5 , Babylock Gloria
Janome 3800QE
BrendaP
Possibly patching pieces on the peninsula.
8,956
20096
Likes Given: 7105
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #1 on:
December 31, 2018, 11:15:47 AM »
Use a stretch interfacing but make sure that neither it nor the fabric are stretched when you apply it, then use a twin needle to topstitch the hem and trim any excess fabric close to the stitching line.
Logged
Tiggy
likes this
Brenda. My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co
.
Helen M
Cheshire
3,321
8510
Likes Given: 7748
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #2 on:
December 31, 2018, 13:46:38 PM »
I'd be tempted to try it without the interfacing, my one attempt at using a stretch lightweight iron on bias tape on a hem wasn't to my liking. I'd also lighten the pressure on the foot if you can. I'm also not a fan of the stretch zig zag stitch, I think it stretches in the way you've found. I'd go for a twin needle as well if you can. Try all these on scraps first though.
Logged
Tiggy
likes this
Stash Busting 2024 - Goal: 25 metres
So far: 1.5 metres ------ Donated : 0 metres
Items decluttered: 55
Ohsewsimple
Near Southampton
9,693
23406
Likes Given: 22000
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #3 on:
December 31, 2018, 17:26:32 PM »
I usually suggest using a triple zig zag stitch. I find that lays nice and flat and stretches as it should and doesn't take long to do. I'm not a fan of twin needle stitching on jersey. Never found it very successful. I'm lucky I have a coverstitch machine.
Logged
Tiggy
likes this
Greybird
Trowbridge, Wiltshire
6,541
14650
Likes Given: 9607
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #4 on:
December 31, 2018, 18:00:32 PM »
I like using Wondertape on mine.
Logged
Tiggy
likes this
Bodgeitandscarper
Lincolnshire coast
10,588
31000
Likes Given: 3837
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #5 on:
December 31, 2018, 18:43:00 PM »
I too have a coverstitch machine, but I'd recommend wondertape for anything you don't want to stretch out when sewing. I use it for placing patch pockets on jersey, and zips in fleece, it's magic - and I only discovered it about a year ago.
Logged
mudcat
Truckee Meadows
1,601
3776
Likes Given: 1155
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #6 on:
January 01, 2019, 00:38:47 AM »
I don't have coverstitch machine (though it's on the wish list).
I use the .5 (smallest) zigzag to hem my knits with a 2.5 stitch length using my Viking #1. I often add a second row of stitching to make it look like a double needle. I don't use interfacing or anything else. I have a trick I do for hems where I do a row of basting where I want to turn the hem and then use the basting as a line to turn the hem under and stitch from the front. This works well for nearly all the knits I sew which is mostly rayon/lycra and cotton/lycra knits of various weights. I can't vouch for poly knits since I don't use them.
But I always experiment on scraps before hemming to make sure I don't have to adjust the length. I have sometimes used 3.0 for thicker knits.
Logged
Ohsewsimple
Near Southampton
9,693
23406
Likes Given: 22000
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #7 on:
January 01, 2019, 10:53:25 AM »
@mudcat
I use the same trick for marking hems. Sooooo much quicker than using a tape measure and pins.
Logged
Helen M
Cheshire
3,321
8510
Likes Given: 7748
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #8 on:
January 01, 2019, 12:44:44 PM »
I meant to add that I always baste (tack) any hem especially on a knit as it helps too prevent any twisting, I also press it before starting to stitch.
Logged
Stash Busting 2024 - Goal: 25 metres
So far: 1.5 metres ------ Donated : 0 metres
Items decluttered: 55
Lyn-J
Reading
656
670
Likes Given: 518
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #9 on:
January 01, 2019, 14:48:17 PM »
What they said
As you are using stretch stitch, it could be the volume of thread going through the fabric is forcing the fibres apart making it wavey.
Try tissue underneath, not for twin needle or you won't be able to get the bits out afterwards.
If all else fails, strips of water soluble embroidery backing, placed top and bottom of the hem and tack near to where you will sew. Rinse away afterwards.
HTH
Logged
Fiona M
Halifax UK
534
449
Likes Given: 480
Re: Hems on knit fabrics.
«
Reply #10 on:
January 01, 2019, 20:04:12 PM »
I use ‘steam a seam lite’, and coversitch.
Logged
+
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Go Up
« previous
next »
The Sewing Place
The Emporia
In the wardrobe
Hems on knit fabrics.
Support The Sewing Place from £1 a month.