The Sewing Place

Trying on...

Efemera

Trying on...
« on: January 07, 2019, 22:15:05 PM »
I’m astounded at the number of people who make stuff straight from the pattern without trying it on several times.. they expect the finished article to fit straight away. The number of times I’ve read  where they’ve said the garment is inches too small..inches too big... don’t they think to put it on and see before they sew it together. ( I’m not even going to mention the lack of pressing between stages)
I must try something at least a dozen times to see how it’s going... am I the only one.

Renegade Sewist

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2019, 22:33:06 PM »
Effie, I actually know garment sewists with years of experience who haven't taken any measurements of themselves in years. :S I take mine quarterly. I'm overdue; should have been done on the first. My weights up; I'm stalling I think.

In a class I took Sandra Betzina, she sells patterns at Vogue, said that she sews up every new to her pattern once straight from the envelope out of some of her "what was I thinking when I bought this?" fabric, only maybe adding length to a hem. She said occasionally she gets lucky and something fits or can be made wearable with just a few tweaks.

So, no, you're not the only one. I go by my most recent measurements, try to guess the best size,make a few paper adjustments and proceed. I even hold the  cut fabric up to me before I stitch it.

When I was a kid trying it on after every seam was incentive to keep going.  0_0
Hey Bill! Read the manual!  Hehehe.

SkoutSews

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2019, 23:02:30 PM »
Trying something on for fitting is the difficult bit, to my mind. It's awkward, as the back and shoulders are hard to fit on yourself and, for the inexperienced and largely self-taught (me!) it's often hard to know how much adjustment should be made, when e.g. sleeves, collar, have yet to be attached. I've tended to 'overfit' garments and this is definitely part of my learning process. Way back, I could make things 'out of the packet', with perhaps a slight adjustment, and they would fit. That was easier and kept sewing to the fun bits of actual garment construction on the machine.

Perhaps it's analogous to buying RTW and accepting the fitting shortcomings?

Esme866

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2019, 04:38:30 AM »
When I was young, I often sewed with no more than one try on , as I was almost always trying to get out the door for a party or a date..
Pull an inch from the rise in trousers, add 3-4 " to the hem, darts, full fly, and pockets all finished before try on to see how much to pull out of the waist and what length I needed for the leg to go with new shoes. BIG fan of tapered leg with heels.

I wasn't an off the rack size, but I'd learned my deviations from "normal". I always pressed at some point. Rarely followed directions - just sewed until I HAD to stop to press. I was fast, but picky with top stitching, hemming etc.

If I didn't have time for a proper hem, the shirt was tucked in without one! A few times wonder under held the hem in pants or a new pencil skirt until I had time to "make them right".

 Most people didn't know I sewed until they asked where I had found something.

My body is too distorted for all of that now. I think that makes the biggest difference.

And with some people, they don't seem to mind looking ,"homemade,"

Nevis5

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2019, 09:29:59 AM »
I think the same, @Efemera , after all that's why I sew.  I don't want to look as though I wear RTW, I can go and buy something if I want to look that uncomfortable.   I try on incessantly, tissue fit, toile if necessary, and alter, alter, alter as I go.  Even then I'm often dissatisfied with the end result but leaving it to marinate in a cupboard for a while often fixes that.

And now I'm finding that as my age increases, everything seems to have shifted again!  Things I liked last year look terrible this year!  Grr.

Tamnymore

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2019, 10:00:29 AM »
The only time I don't try on is with a tried and trusted pattern that I alteady  know will fit well as I've made it before.  Anything else I carefully measure up the pattern pieces to ensure there is enough ease.  I sometimes tissue fit but I very rarely do a toile. Instead I might make up a pattern in a cheaper or less loved fabric so I have a wearable garment before I make it again in a fabric I love more. I try on several times as I go. I don't mind if a garment is a bit big as it can always be made smaller. However you can't always make a too tight garment bigger.

Making a garment from scratch without measuring or fitting is a risk. If something goes wrong it's not so much the waste of fabric but the waste of my time I regret.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2019, 10:06:31 AM »
"Pressing between stages" - wassat then??  :S :o 0_0

As you may guess, I'm pretty much a "hope and sew" person, but I do sometimes check a new pattern won't hang off my shoulders and always (err, ususally!) check to make sure it will fit around my huge arse ample lower half.  Mind you, I'm too fat for "fitted" clothes, so it doesn't matter so much.

Acorn

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2019, 10:09:35 AM »
I try things on many, many times.  The first try-on will usually be with the pieces just pinned.  The top I'm currently making has got as far as the side and shoulder seams, and I reckon it's been tried on 5 times - I changed the flare of the sides and decided that the darts worked much better pressed upwards.

@Bodgeitandscarper - me too.  It's not so much a matter of fitting a garment as making sure it skims!
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Ploshkin

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2019, 13:23:13 PM »
I don't do a lot of trying on unless it's something very fitted or a pattern company I've not used before - I'm lucky to be a pretty standard (big 4) size and shape.

However, every seam gets pressed to within an inch of its life.  I wouldn't dream of not pressing.
Life's too short for ironing.

Tamnymore

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2019, 13:46:09 PM »
None of this fat talk @Bodgeitandscarper ! You are very nicely proportioned and make clothes that you look great wearing.

And you have excellent taste in patterns - I know this because we have a number of these in common!

As for pressing as I go along. If my halo is shining that day I will press as I go and I know I should. However if I think I can get away with I will often press at the end. I have been converted to the virtues of the clapper though - they are surprisingly good at smoothing seams and squashing down bulky bits in a garment.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Catllar

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2019, 14:35:55 PM »
New patterns I'll make a toile out of anything to hand. T&Ts not so much! - Stretch fabric - not so much either. Pressing - I'll sew as much as I can before I press, like Fran, if the next seam will cross then I press, but I can't be doing with up and down ( as my mother so elegantly put it) like a whore's drawers every 2 minutes.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Ohsewsimple

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2019, 17:52:16 PM »
Most things I make are my own patterns so not too many fittings.  But different material for a pattern definitely means I’ll do more fittings.  Don’t want to spend all that time and money making something that’s no good. 
Pressing is very important to me. I spend much longer at the ironing board than sewing machine.

Puzzler

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #12 on: January 09, 2019, 08:16:48 AM »
I can't be doing with up and down ( as my mother so elegantly put it) like a whore's drawers every 2 minutes.

 :D Hilarious!

I was definitely guilty of assuming the pattern would fit straight out of the packet without altering anything more than a side seam. That was in my ignorant youth. I had never realised I was long waisted, assumed the opposite, in fact. I must add 2” in length at the waist of every pattern. My back may have been straighter than it is now but I never considered it to be the reason why necklines chocked me in both RTW and garments made from patterns. It wasn’t until I hit my fifties and returned to dressmaking that I discovered the joys of an FBA. Even as a teen I remember tightness across the bust when I made up a pattern. I also assumed the pattern size related to my RTW size. Lots of errors back then resulted in some poorly fitted garments and me throwing in the towel. I know I tried stuff on, usually inside out, but I was unaware of how to fix fitting issues. I suspect many a garment was binned. As far as a toile was concerned, I simply did not know what that was.

annieeg

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #13 on: January 09, 2019, 10:35:31 AM »
One of the reasons I like Lekala patterns is they are drafted to my personal measurements, which does mean the fitting and trying-on processes are reduced.
Annieeg

Gernella

Re: Trying on...
« Reply #14 on: January 09, 2019, 10:46:54 AM »
I tend to pin and try on.  If it is a skirt what size I do depends on the pattern, Vogue seem generous, Butterick skinny, although some designers seem very generous.  Jackets I normally check the back pattern with a jacket that fits just right.  I came a bit unstuck this last summer, I seemed to retain water in all the heat.  What turned out on the tight side suddenly was just right.  Being a shorty, everything is too long, shoulders too wide and  arms too long.

There is a lot of whores drawers though, if it weren't for the fact I have to answer the door occasionally I'd just have the bare essentials on until I was sure it was a good fit.
Stash extension 2024- 6.1 meters
Left at the end of 2023 - 66 meters now (includes fabric found hidden out of sight)  Lining fabric not included